Monitor 50 or Rti a9 paired with SC-67
Peaveydude
Posts: 32
in Speakers
Since I'm not using a separate power amp, which speakers should I be using with my Pioneer SC-67? Do I potentially under power Rti A9's or go smaller and use Monitor 50's which need less power? Both would be used in a 18x13 room.
If neither are optimal choices, could you recommend a Polk speaker that would be best suited?
If neither are optimal choices, could you recommend a Polk speaker that would be best suited?
Comments
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RTIA7 .....LSIM'S, pretty much anything Polk carries except the A9's or bigger LSI'S. The LSIM series is easier to drive than the previous LSI versions.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Are you using a powered sub?
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I am.
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Before I do decide to get new mains, do I use the Monitors or the A9's?
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Okay, so lets assume you're crossed over at the "standard" 80hz, the bass drivers on the A9's are going to be doing almost nothing...
Making them much easier to drive with a receiver. But that also begs the question, why get them?
You might be better off buying something else if a subwoofer is going to handle the bass:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107RTIA5B/Polk-Audio-RTi-A5-Black.html
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-139683-focal-chorus-816v-tower-speakers-pr.aspx
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If you're worried about budget and efficiency and that's why you're eyeing the M-50s, go with these Rti-8s for about $300 a pair on newegg. A better speaker for you than the M-50s and easier to drive than the Rti-A9s. The Rti-8 is an older version of the Rti-A5s.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16886290002Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
I own both the Monitors and the RTi's. Got the latter cheap, figured if they weren't ideal in my HT room then they could be used as a 2.0 solution in another larger room, mm eventually paired with a power amp. Trying to figure out if I'm better off using the Monitor or the RTi's with the Pioneer as part of a 7.1 setup.
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I'm going to go out on the limb here, then. Basically because I "really" do believe that surround sound and HT are not that hard to do fairly well at a lower cost than two channel. So I'd say hook up those M-50s if that's what you have and rely on a GOOD, very GOOD sub! A Great Sub and a BIG HONKING CENTER, is most of what you need for HT.
Save the BIG (A9s) boys for the stereo system and a good power amp, etc.Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
Its a Klipsch R-115SW, and its a pretty good sub. Thank you for your input guys, is appreciated!
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I'm going to go out on the limb here, then. Basically because I "really" do believe that surround sound and HT are not that hard to do fairly well at a lower cost than two channel. So I'd say hook up those M-50s if that's what you have and rely on a GOOD, very GOOD sub! A Great Sub and a BIG HONKING CENTER, is most of what you need for HT.
Save the BIG (A9s) boys for the stereo system and a good power amp, etc.
Agree! -
NO on the 'A9s. Don't ask why*... ...other already answered*Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
The SC-67 will drive the RTIA9's even if you run them in large. You will over power your room before you run out of gas with the SC-67.
You have a great receiver so buy the speakers you want, I would NOT buy speakers because I was afraid my receiver wouldn't drive them. You don't have that problem.
I drove HUGE Focal floor standing speakers in a fairly large room in a 7 channel configuration with ease. This system was used as a 2 channel and multichannel music first system . It was powered by a SC-68 but the internal amps are basically the same with the SC-68 having a Internal USB DAC.
I drove Magnapans with the SC-68 with ease which there is probably no harder to drive speakers then them. They are retarded power hungry just to get them to play and the SC-68 drove them with many Audiophiles impressed with the sound quality and sheer performance out of a receiver where most of them felt this shouldn't even be considered to do.
I sold many SC-68's that day including to myself.
Many people get all wrapped up in spec's and Ohms and what not. Receivers can't handle speakers blah blah blah. Sure there is a ton of truth to those statements but in most peoples homes, big huge power amps are not needed to perform the duties most people are going to use their systems in. Real world listening doesn't happen at 100 DB and needing all that control over the woofers Dampening. There are times that this applies but like I said in MOST PEOPLES HOMES this isn't a requirement.
The RTIA9's are a power hungry speaker IF you are going to use them for 2 channel without a sub and ran in Large. I would NOT set up the RTIA9's in LARGE in any home theater system. They will always be in small running with a killer nasty badass subwoofer and the SC-67 in this case will blow you out of the room without any fear of damaging your speakers due to a lack of power period.Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
That is one of the most confusing posts I've read here.....shakes head.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Why do you find that post so confusing?
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You don't???Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Nope, must have missed something. Unless you disagree with him suggesting that my receiver is sufficient to power my Rti A9's.
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If you don't ever run them large, why have them? Buy an amp and run 'em large. Or don't buy an amp and use some less power-hungry speakers.
Yes, the run-on post was just a tad confusing... -
Peaveydude wrote: »Nope, must have missed something. Unless you disagree with him suggesting that my receiver is sufficient to power my Rti A9's.
He's all over the place and yes, I disagree in the strongest terms. I have a Pioneer Elite SC AVR with RTi A7's and while it does a nice job for HT, it sucks for music and the A7's are much easier to drive than the A9's.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
So is basically the only difference between the a9's and the a7's is the added sub? I'm running into the same problem right now. I don't mind having to get an external amp if necessary, but trying to decide if I should buy a set of refurbished a7's off the polk ebay story for $730, or buy a set of a9's and a csia6 from a local guy for a little over $1000.
Which would my fellow polkies advise? I have a psw505 sub, but more bass isn't a bad thing lolHome Theater Setup- Receiver - Onkyo TX-RZ1100
- Mains - Polk RTi A9's
- External Amps - Outlaw 2200 Monoblocks for L/R/C
- Center - Polk CSiA6
- Side Surrounds - Polk FXiA6's
- Atmos - 4 Polk 80F/X RT's
- Sub - SVS PC-4000
- T.V. - LG OLED65C7P
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So is basically the only difference between the a9's and the a7's is the added sub?
The A9's do not have a sub in them. They have an additional mid-driver and woofer. Of course, the crossover is different as well as having a larger cabinet. You absolutely need a power amp to get the best out of them.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
That is one of the most confusing posts I've read here.....shakes headHe's all over the place and yes, I disagree...I have a Pioneer Elite SC AVR with RTi A7's...A7's are much easier to drive than the A9's.
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s