Model 10 tweeter
akajimmy
Posts: 50
I have my M10 up and running. I am interested in replacing the tweeters, then possibly doing the x-over upgrades. How do I tell which tweeter this?
Comments
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Those appear to have already been replaced with the RDO-94.
2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
Really? That is very interesting. Looks like the crossovers are up next
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No, those are most likely SL2500s. Pull one and check the label on the back.
The replacement for them is the RDO-198-1.
Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
My mistake. Should have seen that since that's what I had in my 2.3TL's.
2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
westmassguy wrote: »No, those are most likely SL2500s. Pull one and check the label on the back.
The replacement for them is the RDO-198-1.
Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
yep this ^^^^
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westmassguy wrote: »Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
Can you explain this? Even if I could see it in the pic, I'm not sure of the significance.
To the OP: I replaced my SL2500's with RDO-194's (198's require changes to the XO) and re-built the XO's and am very happy.
Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
westmassguy wrote: »Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
Can you explain this? Even if I could see it in the pic, I'm not sure of the significance.
To the OP: I replaced my SL2500's with RDO-194's (198's require changes to the XO) and re-built the XO's and am very happy.
Look at the first picture. Notice the rubber around the screw on the right midwoofer compared to the left.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
westmassguy wrote: »Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
Can you explain this? Even if I could see it in the pic, I'm not sure of the significance.
To the OP: I replaced my SL2500's with RDO-194's (198's require changes to the XO) and re-built the XO's and am very happy.
Look at the first picture. Notice the rubber around the screw on the right midwoofer compared to the left.
OK: I think I see the "pinching" going on with the right side. So what's the (sonic) significance?
Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
westmassguy wrote: »Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
Can you explain this? Even if I could see it in the pic, I'm not sure of the significance.
To the OP: I replaced my SL2500's with RDO-194's (198's require changes to the XO) and re-built the XO's and am very happy.
The correct replacement for the SL2500 is the RDO-198-1, not the RDO-194-1.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »westmassguy wrote: »Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
Can you explain this? Even if I could see it in the pic, I'm not sure of the significance.
To the OP: I replaced my SL2500's with RDO-194's (198's require changes to the XO) and re-built the XO's and am very happy.
The correct replacement for the SL2500 is the RDO-198-1, not the RDO-194-1.
Oops...I must have had SL2000's, because I know the 194 was the replacement. I should edit my other post.
Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
westmassguy wrote: »No, those are most likely SL2500s. Pull one and check the label on the back.
The replacement for them is the RDO-198-1.
Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
I did replace that woofer. DId not even think about notching it. Just very carefully cut a triangle with a sharp hobby knife? -
westmassguy wrote: »No, those are most likely SL2500s. Pull one and check the label on the back.
The replacement for them is the RDO-198-1.
Looks like someone replaced one of the woofers, and didn't notch the rubber surround.
I did replace that woofer. DId not even think about notching it. Just very carefully cut a triangle with a sharp hobby knife?
Either copy the notch like the originals, or cut a half circle. I use a bolt and nut as a guide, and carefully cut around the head, leaving a minimum 3/16" of rubber still attached.
Round is better than sharp corners, less stress, and less chance of splitting as the rubber ages.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/