Experts on Polk Monitor 10s please help
Hi Everyone -
I'm new to this but have read a lot of threads over the years. I am no speaker or electronics expert by any means. I recently picked up a pair of Polk Monitor 10 series 2. I think they're Series 2 (all black with the beveled edge, made with the plywood. They look beautiful.)
Unfortunately they don't sound great. The mids sound good but the top end (treble) is a little fatiguing and a little sloppy. I listen to music (CDs) through 2 channels. These speakers are not part of a surround sound set up.
I pulled out the tweeters and they're the silver coil dome SL-2000 (common in Monitor 10s from late 80's?). I have read the replacement is the RDO-194 for these (which I assume could lead to improvement?) But I'm also reading a lot about upgrading the crossovers. I pulled out the crossover and I was wondering if these crossovers look familiar to anyone? I haven't really seen these in pictures online.
And if anyone can state "you have a Monitor 10b or you have the Monitor 10 series 2." The tweeter and the drivers have a 1988 stamp date on them.
If anyone has any suggestions on improving the treble on these speakers I would be grateful.
Thanks,
Matt
Pictures of the speakers and crossover below.
I'm new to this but have read a lot of threads over the years. I am no speaker or electronics expert by any means. I recently picked up a pair of Polk Monitor 10 series 2. I think they're Series 2 (all black with the beveled edge, made with the plywood. They look beautiful.)
Unfortunately they don't sound great. The mids sound good but the top end (treble) is a little fatiguing and a little sloppy. I listen to music (CDs) through 2 channels. These speakers are not part of a surround sound set up.
I pulled out the tweeters and they're the silver coil dome SL-2000 (common in Monitor 10s from late 80's?). I have read the replacement is the RDO-194 for these (which I assume could lead to improvement?) But I'm also reading a lot about upgrading the crossovers. I pulled out the crossover and I was wondering if these crossovers look familiar to anyone? I haven't really seen these in pictures online.
And if anyone can state "you have a Monitor 10b or you have the Monitor 10 series 2." The tweeter and the drivers have a 1988 stamp date on them.
If anyone has any suggestions on improving the treble on these speakers I would be grateful.
Thanks,
Matt
Pictures of the speakers and crossover below.
Comments
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I have a set of series 2 and the crossovers look nothing like those and the tweeters are SL2500's. The cabinets sure look series 2. Look on the back top right hand corner, should be a serial number tag. If series 2, it will indicate this on that tag. I don't claim to be an expert, just happen to have a pair of series 2's.Post edited by motorhead43026 onThe best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
A friend of mine picked up a pair of 10's a while back that had the SL2000 tweeters. We pulled the crossovers out and one c/o looked like yours and the other one was like other "conventional" Polk c/o's with the circuit board on plastic risers. The caps and resistors had the same values, just different design. We ended buying a set of c/o's on the bay and rebuilt them so they both matched. Also replaced the tweeters with RDO-194's from Polk. They are pretty well burned in now and he loves them. He is running them off a vintage Sansui receiver.
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Thanks for the responses. I just spoke to polk and they most likely are the 10bs but stamped 1988 probably had the more modern (flimsy) cabinets.
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I think those would be a late model Monitor 10B in studio black, and rather rare. I think these showed up more often over seas and at military PX. Your crossovers have poly switches (PS1) which were not used in Series 2. Black was more common in the Monitor x Series 2 models.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Welcome to CP. As mentioned, the Rev 2s would have come with SL2500s, not SL2000s, and the Polyswitches were eliminated. The cabinets should be particle board, not plywood. Upgrading those crossovers will require some creative placement of the new Polypropylene Caps. I also noticed the shunt inductor is positioned wrong. It should be oriented 90 degrees from the way it is now.
If you do plan to upgrade the crossovers, then consider the SL3000/TL Modification. This will allow you to use the RDO-198-1 Tweeters instead of the RDO-194-1s. Both will fit the opening, but the 198s are a better tweeter.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks for the input. It is much appreciated. And the cabinets are indeed particle board not plywood.
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here a pic of my Crossovers for my monitor 10's after Dave (westmassguy) redid them and the originals parts from the crossover sitting around them
2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge
HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD -
Update: I found some upgraded 10b crossovers (clarity caps etc.) on E*** at a reasonable price so I decided to take a shot. I also purchased the RDO-194s from Polk. The result is a fantastic sounding speaker!! These things are singing and are hungry for more. Right now I just have them on some foam monitor stands so I know if I get proper stands it should open them up even more. Thanks everyone for your help.
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One of the great pleasures of this forum is to see the processes and results of people who clearly love the pursuit of audio excellence.
Good job on the 10s!
I recently bought a pair of 5B speakers to put in the garage for use when I am out there (have more than enough others to go around--must sell some). Anyway, as I like them as they are (meaning I have not heard or compared them with any mods), I also am attracted to the 7s and 10s, based on what I have read about them.
So, seeing precisely what you did helps me get a better understanding of things.Jim
St. Louis, MO
AVRs: Yamaha RX-A2030, Onkyo TX-NR646
Speakers: BIC FH6-LCR x 3, BIC FH-65B x 2, Polk RTi6 x 2, Infinity Primus P362, Klipsch KSF-C5
Subs: Polk PSW505 x 2, Polk PSW10, Klipsch Synergy Sub-10 -
In reply to Faustin above my crossovers were different as well when I got both out. Go figure. The one above was one and the other was the conventional Polk crossover. Thank you for sharing that information because I felt weird about that.
To elaborate on the sound it is night and day from before to what they sound like now with the upgraded c/o's and the RDO-194's.Post edited by mpaige on -
You'll get better soundstage and imaging if you spread the speakers apart the same distance that your seating is away from them and point them anywhere from straight out to toed in, not out like you have. Experiment how with toe in until you get vocals from direct center without killing soundstage width. They should also be pulled out slightly in front of the chest of drawers.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Thanks Nightfall. I know the set up isn't ideal currently. I know that triangle is optimum. There's some slack with the wires right now. I pull them out (widen them and toe them in a little) from the chest of drawers when I get serious (have had a couple beers on a Saturday night.) But I haven't really experimented with achieving that fantastic soundstage, yet. I will though I promise.