Parasound 1500 Faceplate

The faceplate for the 1500 amp I just purchased is rack mount, so it won't fit in my entertainment center. Is there an affordable (and self doable) way to change this?

Thanks,
Paul
2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
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Comments

  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,023
    edited October 2015
    I have a couple of pieces of gear like this, myself. At one point I was considering local water jet cutting, but haven't gone through with it (yet) so can't really say how it works or how much it costs. I can't really think of any DIY methods that would handle it cleanly, but if you don't mind a bit of (mis?)calculated damage and assymetry, maybe a cutting wheel or band saw if you have access to one. I've chosen to avoid the DIY route so far for obvious reasons. Cutting wheel would be my last resort unless you have access to a large one that you could mount in something like a chop/miter saw?
    I disabled signatures.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,023
    edited October 2015
    good info, man, I hadn't even considered that there'd be regular metal cutting blades out there. dehr.

    Is that Tenryu stuff a solid brand you work with?

    just had a look at Northern Tools as well. I sometimes pickup "affordable" tools here for one-off type jobs. looks like they have some blades for non-ferrous metals as well, including the Diablo line, which I've been using for wood with satisfactory results for my elementary homeowner tasks.
    I disabled signatures.
  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,670
    I use a Tenryu blade for finish work on my 12" Dewalt miter saw. Dead accurate, clean, quite cuts.

    It's an 80 tooth "Silencer" blade from them. Love it.
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,670
    hochpt21 wrote: »


    I would never touch my 1500A with something like that...

    It's asking for a messy cut.

    A high speed proper saw, that you can clamp the faceplate down with is your only real option.

    If you don't have one, ask friends and family.
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    Upstatemax wrote: »
    hochpt21 wrote: »


    I would never touch my 1500A with something like that...

    It's asking for a messy cut.

    A high speed proper saw, that you can clamp the faceplate down with is your only real option.

    If you don't have one, ask friends and family.

    First, I want to double check the option that there is not a different faceplate that can be switched out. I'm assuming not.

    Second, what if I used the hacksaw from back to front of the ear as opposed to top to bottom? Seems like I could get a perfect cut that way.

    I know a hacksaw sounds horrible, and I hadn't even thought about cutting the ears off, but now I'm intrigued.

    I would leave it, but it just wont slide back in the entertainment center so the door is off and the amp is just sticking out the front :(
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,023
    any chance of rear entry? or is it the entire width of the entertainment center that's too narrow?

    you can cut it with anything you like. you're the only one living with the consequences :) personally, I'd avoid the hack saw unless you have a history of being incredibly accurate with it. maybe consider looking for machine shops, or welding and fabrication shops in your area. they may have some ideas.

    can you post a photo?
    I disabled signatures.
  • chumlie
    chumlie Posts: 8,658
    Hey Paul. Have you tried calling Parasound to see if they can get you a different faceplate ?
  • dhart86
    dhart86 Posts: 1,594
    Hey Paul....other than the faceplate issue, how is the Parasound working out for you?
    Main Rig:
    Antipodes DX > Roon > PS Audio Directstream Jr.>deHavilland Ultraverve 3 >Belles Reference 150a >Harbeth C7 ES3


    Second Rig:
    Roon> PS Audio Directstream Jr Bridge II > EE Minimax pre (Tutay mods) >Belles 150A Ref >Monitor 5 (Westmassguy-modded)


  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited October 2015
    DSkip wrote: »
    msg wrote: »
    any chance of rear entry?

    What a pickup line!

    That takes "distraction" from the real problem to whole new level......
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,670
    hochpt21 wrote: »
    First, I want to double check the option that there is not a different faceplate that can be switched out. I'm assuming not.

    Second, what if I used the hacksaw from back to front of the ear as opposed to top to bottom? Seems like I could get a perfect cut that way.

    I know a hacksaw sounds horrible, and I hadn't even thought about cutting the ears off, but now I'm intrigued.

    I would leave it, but it just wont slide back in the entertainment center so the door is off and the amp is just sticking out the front :(

    I just would never touch the faceplate of that amp with a hacksaw...

    The good, clean cut comes from a good blade moving at a very high rate of speed and making sure the faceplate and blade do not move, at all.

    Where are you located? I have a saw that can handle it, just need a good metal blade...
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    dhart86 wrote: »
    Hey Paul....other than the faceplate issue, how is the Parasound working out for you?

    Sorry, I missed this one!

    The amp is great. Haven't had a lot of critical time with it, but I'm loving the sound with the Dared. Thank you so much for the great deal and transaction!
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    msg wrote: »
    any chance of rear entry? or is it the entire width of the entertainment center that's too narrow?

    you can cut it with anything you like. you're the only one living with the consequences :) personally, I'd avoid the hack saw unless you have a history of being incredibly accurate with it. maybe consider looking for machine shops, or welding and fabrication shops in your area. they may have some ideas.

    can you post a photo?

    No rear entry. I need to lose about .75 inch on either side. Maybe a half inch each would do it.
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    Upstatemax wrote: »
    hochpt21 wrote: »
    First, I want to double check the option that there is not a different faceplate that can be switched out. I'm assuming not.

    Second, what if I used the hacksaw from back to front of the ear as opposed to top to bottom? Seems like I could get a perfect cut that way.

    I know a hacksaw sounds horrible, and I hadn't even thought about cutting the ears off, but now I'm intrigued.

    I would leave it, but it just wont slide back in the entertainment center so the door is off and the amp is just sticking out the front :(

    I just would never touch the faceplate of that amp with a hacksaw...

    The good, clean cut comes from a good blade moving at a very high rate of speed and making sure the faceplate and blade do not move, at all.

    Where are you located? I have a saw that can handle it, just need a good metal blade...

    I'm in Wisconsin.
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • xjghost
    xjghost Posts: 1,103
    I believe those face plates are aluminum. I have a 1200ii that the USPO bent up and am looking for a replacement. I bet they made that face plate in a non rack mount style. I'd shoot them an email. Service@parasound.com I got a quick response from them but mine is so old they don't have them any longer.
    HT/2Channel: Emotiva MMC-1, Adcom GFA-555II, Polk SDA 3.1's, Teac TN-300 TT, Polk Center and Sub.

    Bedroom system: Carver CT-24, Parasound HCA-800II, Monitor 10's

    Additional projects: RTA 12c's
  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,670
    xjghost wrote: »
    I believe those face plates are aluminum. I have a 1200ii that the USPO bent up and am looking for a replacement. I bet they made that face plate in a non rack mount style. I'd shoot them an email. Service@parasound.com I got a quick response from them but mine is so old they don't have them any longer.


    IIRC, all of the 1500A's were shipped with a rack mount ready faceplate. It was just an option to have the pulls installed...

    To the OP:

    I'm in NY. Sorry I can't be of any help. :(
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    @hochpt21

    You do realize you kill resale if you cut the ears off? If your gonna keep it forever no biggie, but if you think you might have to sell it off later, you dropped value by a bit unless you then find a replacement faceplate.

    Can I throw out another idea.... why not MAKE a WOOD faceplate out of some super nice material and then silkscreen Parasound on it or something..... Then you can keep the original for resale and not be out a ton.

    @xjghost

    They never made them without the rack mount ears until the newer models they came out with. Also see above comment about making a custom faceplate out of wood...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    edited October 2015
    Received this e-mail from Parasound today.

    "We do stock the 17’ version of this faceplate – cost is $75.00 + shipping.

    Pls. note faceplate is only the metal work, all LED holders, power switches must be removed from old faceplate and transferred to the new faceplate.

    Best regards,"

    Anyone have experience with faceplate changing? Is this something I could easily switch out on my own?
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,447
    open it up and look that is all it takes....
  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,670
    Can I throw out another idea.... why not MAKE a WOOD faceplate out of some super nice material and then silkscreen Parasound on it or something..... Then you can keep the original for resale and not be out a ton.

    AWESOME idea!

    I don't even need the space for my 1500A and now you have me thinking about doing this...



  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,670
    hochpt21 wrote: »
    Received this e-mail from Parasound today.

    "We do stock the 17’ version of this faceplate – cost is $75.00 + shipping.

    Pls. note faceplate is only the metal work, all LED holders, power switches must be removed from old faceplate and transferred to the new faceplate.

    Best regards,"

    Anyone have experience with faceplate changing? Is this something I could easily switch out on my own?

    Without opening it all up, I have to assume that it's all pretty much plug and play.

    At worst a bit of soldering. You have any experience soldering?
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,375
    edited October 2015
    I had the faceplate off my HCA-1000a,which is very similar design, and I don't recall any de-soldering. If I recall, it was all screws.

    If you do cut the ears off, I would be willing to buy it at a deep discount. :)
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    skrol wrote: »
    I had the faceplate off my HCA-1000a,which is very similar design, and I don't recall any de-soldering. If I recall, it was all screws.

    If you do cut the ears off, I would be willing to buy it at a deep discount. :)

    That would be great, cause I should be able to handle a few screws :)

    Not so much with the soldering...
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • footwedge
    footwedge Posts: 475
    Dumb question. Are you not happy with the MF a308?
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    It is the pinnacle of my 7 year young audiophile journey. Only downgrading for financial reasons temporarily.

    I'll be listing it here when I have the time.
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    footwedge wrote: »
    Dumb question. Are you not happy with the MF a308?

    He loved it but had some bills to pay....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,499
    hochpt21 wrote: »

    That would be great, cause I should be able to handle a few screws :)

    Not so much with the soldering...

    You ever need a hand we are not that far apart....
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    hochpt21 wrote: »

    That would be great, cause I should be able to handle a few screws :)

    Not so much with the soldering...

    You ever need a hand we are not that far apart....

    Thank you very much!
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    Ok, I got about 35 flame suits on and may need more. This will horrify some of you, and I'm sure a lot of facepalms and head shaking will ensue.

    If I have one defense for myself, the reason for switching to this amp was strictly financial, so spending another $100 for a new faceplate was something I really had to think about.

    I decided to try cutting the ears off. My thought that if I really fudged it up, I could always opt for the new plate.

    I used a "gulp" hacksaw, steel file and a black magic marker.

    I could have filed the right side a bit more to get it nearly perfect, but thought good enough for now.

    PROCEED TO PICTURES BELOW WITH CAUTION!!!!

    And please be gentle :)
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A