Monitor 10 series 2 recap
wamo101
Posts: 12
Any brand recommendations on caps. Any difference in performance between brands. Any place I can find detailed instructions and tips on how to recap.
Comments
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Sonicap and ClarityCap are most recommended. I have read good things about Mundorf as well but haven't heard them, nor seen anybody on this board discuss them.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Your Crossovers most likely have a mix of Mylar and Non-polarized Electrolytics, with Sandcast Resistors. You'll want to replace all of them.
You'll want Metalized Polypropylene Caps, and Mills or Mundorf MOX Resistors.
Entry Level, I.E. inexpensive, would be Dayton or Solen MP Caps, and Clarity PX would be a step above. The much better, and expensive Caps would be Sonicap Gen I, or Clarity ESAs.
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Here are my crossovers for the monitor 10 series 2. According to the schematic they have a 12uf electrolytic, a 27uf electrolytic , and a 16uf mylar. you can see that there are 2 12's and a 27. what is the yellow piece under the 12. I bought these used , so not sure if there has been any work done. Just trying to figure everything out before i start on these. -
Looks like a sandcast peeking out from under the 12uf electro, that has been overdriven i.e. burned. A somewhat small investment in new film caps and mills wire wound resistors would result in a dramatic improvement.Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
Polk SDA2btl highly modded
Polk SDA 1C modded
Polk CS350 LS x2
Kimber 8TC
Sony 55" Bravia
Wish list SVS sub -
can westmassguy answer this post
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The yellow piece, is a Mylar cap. They paralleled a 12uf NP Electrolytic cap with the Mylar to make a 16uf cap. The other 12uf is shunting the 2.7 ohm resister that's underneath it. The Resistors has scorched the circuit board, and probably took out the 12uf on top of it.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Can I replace the 12 and the Mylar with a single 16uf poly cap
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The best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
This ^^^^^^^
It's always best practice to use the exact value capacitor if possible. If two or more capacitors are needed to make up the value, it's better to use caps of equal value, or as close as possible, not the way Polk did it. Not only are the values far apart, but they mixed NP Electrolytics, with Mylar.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/