Question about installing spikes on SDA 2B Studio
Rex81
Posts: 193
Hello all, I just acquired a set of SDA 2B Studio (all black) and have been enjoying them immensely. They have bested all my other speakers of which I was quite fond of before these arrived. I've already ordered the RDO-194 tweeters and now I'm moving on to spiking them as they're currently resting on carpet.
The 2B Studios (and maybe others) have strips of mdf screwed to the bottom of the cabinet to form a riser of sorts.
-Should I install the spikes to the bottom of the strips, or remove them and install the spikes directly into the cabinets of the 2B?
-If I'm installing them directly into the cabinet, do I need to be careful when drilling the holes? Are there any crossover components near the bottom that I could risk drilling into?
-Should I seal the holes afterward?
Your help is appreciated. Thanks!
The 2B Studios (and maybe others) have strips of mdf screwed to the bottom of the cabinet to form a riser of sorts.
-Should I install the spikes to the bottom of the strips, or remove them and install the spikes directly into the cabinets of the 2B?
-If I'm installing them directly into the cabinet, do I need to be careful when drilling the holes? Are there any crossover components near the bottom that I could risk drilling into?
-Should I seal the holes afterward?
Your help is appreciated. Thanks!
Comments
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Hopefully others will chime in.... I did mine on 1c's & it made the bass so much better. I put peice of tape on drill bit & made sure i didnt go to deep. 1c's have the solid wood bottoms. So yours would be different for sure-like you stated above. Welcome to Club Polk Rex
::edit:: you gonna like those 194's.. -
for the MDF riser's they will not hold up well if used for the spikes, Get a set of tall spikes 2.5" or close you will have about the same height after the risers are removed as before then attach spikes to the base plate. I made another riser out of 2x4 solid walnut and then attached those to my set of speakers then attached the spikes to that solid wood.
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My studio SDA-2Bs were spiked before I got them but the previous owner removed the original MDF base and made a new wider base out of solid oak and then mounted the spikes to that sturdier base. It has held up well in the time I've had them.2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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I have the SDA 2A's, same studio cabinet design. I put 2 inch spikes on mine, echoing the comment on taking the existing riser off. Also, if you do happen to go all the way through the cabinet accidentally you can seal it up pretty easily by taking the radiator off and getting to the inside.
As far as brand/price you'll get lots of answers. Prices can range up to hundreds of dollars for a set. I got mine from Madisound, FWIW. Be careful moving them around with the spikes on however. Not only from possibly snapping them from the heavy cabinet but they can be sharp!Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me -
Ah, good recommendations. Guess I'll just have to decide whether to build a bigger base, or go right into the bottom cabinet. Thanks guys!
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I removed the risers and put in 2" spikes. Works like a charm.
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Also, if you do happen to go all the way through the cabinet accidentally you can seal it up pretty easily by taking the radiator off and getting to the inside.
I do that anyway BIG washer on inside and bolt down to spike get them nice and tight, I also use blue thread lock just in case...
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Remove the riser, plug the 4 holes. Add 2" tall spikes, which will raise the speakers one inch higher than when the riser was mounted. Most spikes come with threaded inserts, which are usually 1/2" deep. Use the drill and tape method mentioned. Mount the spikes close to the corners for the best stability and appearance.Political Correctness'.........defined
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President of Club Polk -
Thanks again, everyone. I pretty much did exactly as F1nut suggested above. I had some 2" spikes laying around from a set of speakers I purchased new some years ago. So I just went to Home Depot and picked up some hammer-in inserts. Removed the risers, filled holes with putty, Drilled the holes directly into the cabinet 1/2" deep so as not to go through the MDF all the way, hammered them in, screwed in the spikes and I'm done. Nice upgrade for very little money/effort.
I will say that if I did it again, I might get the screw-in inserts rather than the hammer-in. I think the hammering puts a lot of force on the MDF and I could see it stressing at the corners. I tried to put the inserts far enough away to prevent this, but I still saw it. Seems like the screw-in type might prevent this. Oh well, all is good. Thanks again for the advice! Love these speakers! -
I removed my stock risers and cut a solid piece of wood, I believe was poplar, and secured it to the factory locations. Then I installed spikes on all 4 corners.
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Hate to bring up an old thread but figured better than starting another one. I currently sit maybe an inch below the tweeters with the riser attached as my couch is pretty low to the ground. I was thinking of getting 5/8 inch spikes to drop them a little so the tweeter is ear level. Bad idea and should I go with the 2 inch spikes?Just a dude doing dude-ly things
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codycatalist wrote: »Hate to bring up an old thread but figured better than starting another one. I currently sit maybe an inch below the tweeters with the riser attached as my couch is pretty low to the ground. I was thinking of getting 5/8 inch spikes to drop them a little so the tweeter is ear level. Bad idea and should I go with the 2 inch spikes?
I wouldn't obsess about it. Dome tweeters have a relatively wide dispersion pattern, about 140-160 degrees, and fairly uniform. If they didn't, they wouldn't be SDA friendly.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
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westmassguy wrote: »codycatalist wrote: »Hate to bring up an old thread but figured better than starting another one. I currently sit maybe an inch below the tweeters with the riser attached as my couch is pretty low to the ground. I was thinking of getting 5/8 inch spikes to drop them a little so the tweeter is ear level. Bad idea and should I go with the 2 inch spikes?
I wouldn't obsess about it. Dome tweeters have a relatively wide dispersion pattern, about 140-160 degrees, and fairly uniform. If they didn't, they wouldn't be SDA friendly.
Awesome, thanks buddy. Now to figure out how to get these risers off when my Spikes arrive in the mail. Ha!Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
If they are studio there will be four screws holding them on, at least on mine that is how they were attached.
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I usually prefer my ears level with the midrange drivers.
With “conventional” speakers I would agree. But with the way my Salk transmission line speakers are arranged in the MTM design, it sounds great with my ears it ribbon level
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