Polk Audio SW155 15" Passive Radiator

Hello to all. I have a pair of SDA SRS. My left side radiator is separated on the inside at the woven material. it's pretty banged up and it needs repair or replacement. Any help would be great! Thanks

Comments

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    There was a member here trying to sell a 15" passive on eBay a month ago or so. I don't think it sold, so he may still have it.

    I don't remember who it was, though. Perhaps a search on passive radiators on this forum would provide results.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    The spider has come unglued. You can repair that with something like Alene's tacky glue. As far as new replacement, there are none. You can check eBay for a used one, but they don't come up often.

    BTW, if you have an SW155 in your SDA SRS's, you have the wrong PR. It should be the SW150. The SW155 was used in the following three models, the SDA SRS 2 (pin/blade), the SDA SRS 2.3 and the SDA SRS 2.3TL.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    Wasn't there a Matthew Polk signed SW150 pr on the site here a couple of months ago for sale? :)
  • djibm
    djibm Posts: 19
    thanks for the feedback. Yeah the eBay sale ended :( No Bigs.. I am going to do the repair myself. I seem to be mistaken about the radiator I have.. I have a pair of SW150. I am going to use loctite as it is a rubber base and bonds well while keeping elasticity. Hope it holds. Wish me luck
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    I am going to use loctite as it is a rubber base and bonds well while keeping elasticity.

    Loctite what, Power Grab? That wouldn't be my choice.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited September 2015
    Alene's is the proper if you're going to do do it right
  • djibm
    djibm Posts: 19
    Happy to report in.. The repair was successful... Or so it seems. I have let the Loctite GO2 Glue cure for 24 hours...ish. This stuff comes out like caulk. I have used in the past on a pair of Velodyne subs with torn rad's.. still hold strong after 2 yrs. Velodyne uses an elastic band that's glued to the rad's inner platter, stretched then stapled to the top. No chassis or frame. Still thumps!

    I now plan on reinstalling the radiators and letting them rest for the night. I am still on the look out for 2 replacement SW150 for future use. If anyone out there has one in usable condition, please let me know. I will check on my rad's in a week or so and report back. I hope for a long term repair as my left rad was thrashed.

    For those that don't already know.. If your rad looks like a flat tire, you might wanna have a look. The top will pitch inward, the bottom will sag and push outward. Just FYI. No offense,LOL.

    While performing this repair, I damaged a few of the very delicate screws. I'd much prefer the screws that secure the drivers. Does anyone know the size of the screws that secure the radiators?? Is there a search? I'm looking to replace the lot of screws for the pair of rads// SDA SRS. The rad's are date marked 1983... cool!!

    As a Hi-Fi installer, I've setup systems for clients that cost more than an new car. I can honestly say the SDA series has no competition.

    Thank you again to all for your response and advice.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Use Hurricane nuts along with cap screws to replace the stock screws. The thread pattern you want is 8-32. I recommend using #8 washers with the cap screws for the PR's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    Just so you know how rare they are in the past 15 years I might have seen one come up on eBay. I doubt you'll find anybody that wants to get up off a pair of those 15 inch Passive radiator. That is why we suggest tried and true fixes you also do not want added weight localized in one area. Let us know if it ever give in the area you fixed.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    ^This^
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • I'm glad it worked out for you, however, as others have said, that would not have been my 1st choice. Aleen's is my GoTo glue when repairing & re-coning woofers, PRs etc.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • djibm
    djibm Posts: 19
    Thanks #F1nut for the screw size and the advice. I must say thanks to all for your thoughts. I will be careful and I will replace the screws when I inspect the rad's to see if indeed the repair is holding. For now, the bass is much tighter and cleaner. I will swing by Michaels and invest in a bottle of Aleen's for a few other repairs.