I am interested in recapping my SDA SRS 2

SDAkid

I want to recap the crossovers on my SDA SRS 2, I wanted to know what is the parts list

Thanks Guys

Bryan

ZLTFUL

http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/55888/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-more-stereo-dimensional-array-sda#latest

SDAkid

Pardon my ignorance, I saw the schematics and it looks Chinese, I only need what cap values I need to buy and the resistor to replace the relay

pitdogg2

What you need to do is open them up get all values of parts inside. Polk is notorious for changes on the fly so you may not match the schematics 100%. BUT you do want to get the same or within +/- 5%. of the parts inside . I recommend Sonicraft caps they have a very good track record here as do a few others. Get you parts lisst and come back we will help you through it.

gimpod

@SDAkid Not to make your life difficult but there are 2 different SDA SRS 2's, The 1986 version with a blade/blade interlink cable and only 2 binding posts, Then there's the 1987 version with a pin/blade interlink cable and 4 binding posts.

The crossovers are completely different along with the 6.5in mid-drivers. You'll need to find out which version you have.

SDAkid wrote: »

Pardon my ignorance, I saw the schematics and it looks Chinese, I only need what cap values I need to buy and the resistor to replace the relay

I'm afraid there's a bit more to it than that. If your not comfortable doing this I would Try getting hold of @westmassguy or @VR3 as they both have a great deal of experience doing SDA crossovers.

SDAkid

I have the 1986 blade/blade single binding post

drumminman

Are you comfortable with soldering? If so replacing caps and resistors (I recommend replacing the inductors as well) is not difficult. Just do one Xover at a time so you can use the other as reference. You're simply swapping parts. Also, take before pics just in case.

gimpod

drumminman wrote: »

Are you comfortable with soldering? If so replacing caps and resistors (I recommend replacing the inductors as well) is not difficult. Just do one Xover at a time so you can use the other as reference. You're simply swapping parts. Also, take before pics just in case.

Also Label everything as you take them apart.

I would also get hold of @westmassguy or @VR3 for advice as those early SDA SRS 2's can be a bit harder getting all the new bits to fit. Just a heads up.

Schurkey

Another member here did a very involved write-up on modifying the Blade/Blade SRS 2 crossovers including changing to the RD0-198 tweeters by replacing the 4.4uF cap with a 5.8uF cap. (5.6 is easier to find, and close enough) It's many pages long, and the first half is less-good than the second half.
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/74946/sda-srs-2-crossover-parts-list/p1

Blade/Blade SRS 2 is identical to the 1B as far as the crossover goes; except for a single resistor on the high-frequency circuit board--2 ohm in the 1B, 3.5 ohm (I think) in the SRS 2. There's been discussion of dropping the value of that resistor to 1.5--1.8 ohms to increase the treble volume in relation to the mid/woofer volume.

There's also advice about using a 9.6mH iron-core inductor in each cabinet. This would replace the 9.6mH air-core inductor. The iron-core inductor provides better bass with the trade-off of lower system impedance. If your amp is marginal with "4-ohm" loads, the inductor change wouldn't be recommended.

gimpod

Schurkey wrote: »

Another member here did a very involved write-up on modifying the Blade/Blade SRS 2 crossovers including changing to the RD0-198 tweeters by replacing the 4.4uF cap with a 5.8uF cap. (5.6 is easier to find, and close enough) It's many pages long, and the first half is less-good than the second half.
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/74946/sda-srs-2-crossover-parts-list/p1

Sonic Craft has been stocking that 5.8uF for a couple years now. Link

If replacing the 4.4uF cap with a 5.8uF cap adjusts the circuit for the top tweeter so you can use the RDO-198 instead of the SL2000 or RDO-194, What changes are being made to the circuit for the bottom tweeter so you can use the RDO-198, none as far as I can tell. What do you do just stick a RDO-198 and hope it sounds good or maybe you won't notice how unbalanced it sounds or do you stick with the stock SL2000 or RDO-194 or again hope you won't notice how unbalanced it sounds.

@Schurkey When you recommend this mod you should post a disclaimer that this is not a Polk Audio recommended mod like the SDA CRS+ 4.1TL mod. Which is by the way what the mod your suggesting is based on. And that you may or may not like the outcome. JMO

F1nut

I agree 100% with Gimpod. I know it's been said that because the bottom tweeter plays a limited range compared to the top tweeter that it doesn't matter, but it has to matter when you think about it as the SL2000/RD0194-1 and the SL3000/RD0198-1 have totally different sound signatures.

ItchAdair

For this you have to take out all the parts outside and check their part number. You must purchase the same component but the +/- 5% is tolerable, you can also use them if available. Instead replacing if you can adjust the inductors and capacitors then go for it only if you are facing problem in the sound.