Armacell Question

Should I remove the old gasket and replace with Armacell or add the Armacell over the old gasket?

If it is recommended to remove the old gasket what is the best way?
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Best Answers

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Answer ✓
    machone wrote: »
    The gaskets on the drivers are fine and are not stuck. It's the passive radiator that is the problem. A small portion of it stuck to the baffle, separating its surface and it seems to be really glued to the PR. It may be OK to use as is but I was checking to see what you guys have run into before.

    The original gaskets were glued to the basket rim. If they are now unglued they should be reglued or replaced. The PR gasket is the same deal. If it has come loose in one spot, reglue it.



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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Answer ✓
    Despite Ray's findings I still maintain there's no point in changing the gaskets unless the originals are damaged. Once a new gasket is completely compressed it will be the same thickness as the original, which is1/64".
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Answers

  • MrBuhl
    MrBuhl Posts: 2,419
    The old gasket is preferable if its not torn and in good shape is my understanding. If it is torn, then use Armacell to replace after removing it. It shouldn't need to be removed with anything - it should be loose and not stuck on - at least mine weren't stuck at all on either set of SDA's.
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  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    The gaskets on the drivers are fine and are not stuck. It's the passive radiator that is the problem. A small portion of it stuck to the baffle, separating its surface and it seems to be really glued to the PR. It may be OK to use as is but I was checking to see what you guys have run into before.
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    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited February 2015
    Well if it makes you feel better the speakers leak around the dust covers anyway. I guess you could hear a small edge leak with a Stethoscope by gently pushing in on the PR.
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,416
    edited February 2015
    MrBuhl wrote: »
    The old gasket is preferable if its not torn and in good shape is my understanding. If it is torn, then use Armacell to replace after removing it. It shouldn't need to be removed with anything - it should be loose and not stuck on - at least mine weren't stuck at all on either set of SDA's.

    It was my understanding that Armacell is superior to the OEM gasket material and does offer some slight to moderate performance advantages over the stock stuff, or the previously used Mortite. DK did an excellent test of Armacell here.

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/123136/sda-driver-seals-original-foam-vs-mortite-vs-armaflex-foam

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  • Funny that you say they were glued. I had no idea ,I thought they were just laid in place. Mine either lifted then disintegrated or was in shards of dust and pieces so I had to do the Aramflex thing.
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  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    They are glued to the PR and some of it transferred to the speaker baffle. I used Goo Gone to clean it off the baffle. Only the surface of the gasket transferred to the baffle so it may be OK to reuse. If not I will remove it and use Armacell.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
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    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"