10A crossover upgrade and tweeter replacement

Titleist1

After too many years of being on the sidelines my 10A's I bought back in '81 are back in the starting lineup!! Many thanks to those with the expertise and experience on here that shared that info and made the crossover upgrade project very easy and idiot proof!

I also had to replace a tweeter that was blown since college days. I used the Peerless copy sold on eBay, it was an easy drop in fit. I received that a few days before the crossover components made it here so I was able to listen and compare it to the original in the other speaker and each has the same sound to me.

After reading many opinions on here and also acknowledging my severe tinnitus impaired hearing I decided to update the crossovers with dayton caps and the mills resistors. I know there are better caps but I am sure with my hearing I wont be able to tell the difference from the daytons. Other than snipping one cap lead a little too short and having to add a lead wire to it so it fit to my liking it was straightforward with no issues. After updating one crossover I played some tunes to compare one speaker to the other and even I could hear a difference. Finished updating the other crossover's components and the fun began!

I am listening to Close To The Edge right now and have Terrapin Station up next and am really enjoying the sound. Clear & crisp...not muddled or with that 'compressed' sound.

boston1450

Welcome to the Polk forum. Glad to see your enjoying your speakers. Those upgrades & peerless tweeters should sound very nice. Welcome again. Enjoy

Titleist1

One question I forgot to ask has to do with the white batting inside the speaker. I know I have read here it should not be in the lower section of the speaker behind the passive radiator.

But looking at mine it seems that it was placed all the way to the bottom of the cabinet when it was manufactured because all four pieces are curled around the radiator ending at the front bottom edge in an identical manner.

It seems if the batting had dropped from behind the drivers at least one of the pieces would have caught on one of the crossover components. Or at least one of the pieces would have stayed toward the back of the cabinet.

I was wondering if they ran it to the bottom of the cabinet early on in manufacturing and at some later point started tacking it in place just below the drivers. I left mine as it was for now but may experiment and move it at some point.

F1nut

I was wondering if they ran it to the bottom of the cabinet early on in manufacturing and at some later point started tacking it in place just below the drivers. I left mine as it was for now but may experiment and move it at some point.

Negative. Push it back up now and use a a few staples to secure it.

headrott

F1nut wrote: »

I was wondering if they ran it to the bottom of the cabinet early on in manufacturing and at some later point started tacking it in place just below the drivers. I left mine as it was for now but may experiment and move it at some point.

Negative. Push it back up now and use a a few staples to secure it.

Agreed. It probably just settled over the years. It should not be below the MW drivers.

Titleist1

Thanks for the confirmation...with it being as cold and windy as it is this is a more appealing 'in front of the stove' project than what i was thinking about getting into outside this morning. I am guessing cabinet access through the radiator opening makes it easiest to do.

Faustin

Welcome to the forum. I still have my 10's that I bought new in 1979. Peerless tweeters and rebuilt crossovers. I did notice a very audible difference as the crossovers burned in....around 200 to 250 hours of play time. At the time I have them side by side with another set of 10's and it was VERY apparent as the sound improved. In regards to the dacron. If I remember correctly mine had 3 pieces in each box. 2 that are rolled up in the top of the cabinet and then a third piece that resembled a pair of pants. Rool up the "legs" and position it behind the 6.5 drivers and staple it to keep it in place. There should not be any dacron behind the passive. There are several other inexpensive tweaks to really improve the sound of those speakers.

Titleist1

Maybe a dumb question, but does it make a difference if i tack the dacron batting to the back of the cabinet so the airspace is clear between the drivers & the passive, front of the cabinet so the dacron fills the airspace between the drivers & passive or doesn't it matter as long as both speakers are the same?

westmassguy

Tack the Dacron to the sides. You want the space behind the woofers stuffed. This helps clear up the midrange.