Starting from scratch on SDA 1c's

strokin

Oh, I see, do I drill here for the inserts of the spikes?
Anyone with pics of their spikes and words of wisdom?

MrBuhl

That's what I did on mine, I think some folks move in a bit but mine seemed pretty solid from there, though I don't plan on moving them around at all.

I just used the hole remaining after removal of the nail/tack for the pilot for my new hole. Unfortunately I did not take pictures of the spike process, I usually would... but it's painful to drill that first hole into those speakers - at least it was for me!

IT does make a huge difference though, especially as mine were floating on carpet.

MrBuhl

Here's a link to a thread for 2b's - which have a different, false bottom box, but it gives you another option to consider for installation - leaving the tacks and drilling different holes all together. There are pics included on this one in page two I found helpful anyway. Good luck!

As far as hints - don't overtighten! Those d a m n nuts included with the meniscus spikes seem to be made of cheap pot metal and break easier than a kids cap gun!

http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/130853/spiked-the-sda2bs-done-deal

Mike Reeter

strokin wrote: »

Oh, I see, do I drill here for the inserts of the spikes?
Anyone with pics of their spikes and words of wisdom?

In my experience the Threaded Inserts that came with your Spikes will not hold up very well in the MDF material, "IF" you move your speakers around much.

I installed T-Nuts (the same inserts used on the bigger SDA models) that have a longer shoulder on them, glued in with a Construction Grade Adhesive, much betta.

You can also get them in a 6mm thread.

http://www.amazon.com/quot-Deluxe-6-Prong-T-Nuts-Pcs/dp/B0002ZPEUE

strokin

Thanks for the link MrBuhl. I ended up going ahead and picking up t-nuts, I do feel better about these. My spikes were from PE. Luckily they were 6mm.

Thanks to everyone on this forum for all the help on these. These speakers have come so far. When I'm done with these final details, the only things I will have left will be the wiring and crossover changes. Ok I'll just say all the expensive stuff.

Have a drink on me!

MrBuhl

Glad to have helped - now fire those puppies up and take in the sound!

strokin

Thinking out loud again, should I have used 1/4 20 studs and spikes? After all, these things aren't light.

MrBuhl

I think that's what mine are - but as someone else said, the stud is tough enough, its the nut that is weak - so your T Nuts are a good idea.

Schurkey

strokin wrote: »

Thinking out loud again, should I have used 1/4 20 studs and spikes? After all, these things aren't light.

"I" used 1/4" hardware. It was more from convenience than from design. I already owned the 1/4" hardware.

The studs are under practically no stress...unless you move the speakers by dragging the spikes across the floor. If you move the speakers carelessly, I'm still more concerned about the wood base than the spike and hardware.

Given proper balance and low music volume, you wouldn't need a fastener at all between cabinet and spike--the weight of the speaker would make the system stable enough to not fall over. I'm not saying the spike would be as effective as it could be; just that the speaker wouldn't topple.

The stud is the last thing in this assembly you need to worry about. If you are still concerned, buy high-strength steel studs of the correct thread size.

strokin

I definitely was saving my spikes for last.

"Shurkey" I used the 1/4" stud idea on another set of speakers, because I was on carpet and the tower already had 1/4 20 threaded hole. Worked like a charm.



Just spent a tedious day working on the hurricane nuts on drivers and passive. But I gotta say, so far so good. They work well. Using Epoxy around the h-nuts before drawing them in. Left speaker done.

I'm in the middle of breaking my new tweeters in. I'll be glad when I can let em fly for awhile.

By the way, I drove over to a granite counter top place today and they wanted $136.00 for 2 bases for the spikes to sit on. Does anyone have any suggestions on places to look for to purchase? I live in Louisville Ky or new ideas to look for, or think about.

strokin

All done with the h-nuts, sshheewww! Gotta say, it tightened everything up on the sound even more. The only advice I would throw in that I figured out along the way, is buy a few extra screws and 2 bits. The last couple were starting to slip a little. But I made it. After all that's alot of screws.

I had to do what someone else did, spray paint my galvanized 4mm washers. Buy a couple of those as well.

But all in all, well worth it.

Didn't expect to see the shoulder of the h-nut. Quickly checked a speaker to make sure it would clear. Once again, sshhheeewww!

Faustin

"Didn't expect to see the shoulder of the h-nut. Quickly checked a speaker to make sure it would clear. Once again, sshhheeewww!"

When I did my first set of hurricane nuts, I knew the drivers would fit back in but even though no one would ever see them I just had to grind off that piece before I installed them. Decided on the next few sets that it was too much work that was not necessary.

strokin

I thought about the grinding too, but luckily I checked clearance and all was good.