Compare original MW6510 to Replacements

bcline

I've been looking for a thread on this and was wondering how the replacement mw6510 drivers compare to the new replacements that you can get from Polk. I think I need to replace a dimensional driver in my sda2a speakers and cannot find originals anywhere right now.

nikonik

There are 4 for sale in the For Sale section!

nikonik

Original drivers are best in my opinion. They have the cut out for the screws and the new ones dont. You will have to cut a bit of the rubber off. Just be careful lifting the rubber as it peels away with ease. I dont know why they were made wo the cutouts and with an adhesive that doesnt hold like the original drivers. Hope this helps as I have had my mishap with the new rubber. I used a screw w a bigger head than original screw and cut rubber around it w a sharp razor blade. Original screw fits just fine and when I can, I look for original drivers.

bcline

I knew about the cutout issue. My question has more to do with comparison of sound. Do the new drivers sound the same or are there differences?

drumminman

I can't hear a difference between the new and old 6510's, though some claim to be able to.

On3s&Z3r0s

I might be the only guy on the forum that has this particular opinion, so take it with a grain of salt, but I have original and replacement MW6503's, 6511's, and 6510's, and I find the replacements to be at least as good if not better than the originals. The difference I hear is in the tightness of the bass. I would chalk it up to the newer drivers being closer to the spec'd mechanical Q. I think drivers that have seen 25+ years of use have their spiders loosen a little like old springs will lose a little bit of tension.

If you're already comfortable with trimming around the screw cutout, I'd personally replace the dimensionals with new ones. But, that said, if you want vintage models, I have some I could dig out of storage. I can't remember if I already epoxied / dynamatted them.

strokin

On3s&Z3r0s wrote: »

I might be the only guy on the forum that has this particular opinion, so take it with a grain of salt, but I have original and replacement MW6503's, 6511's, and 6510's, and I find the replacements to be at least as good if not better than the originals. The difference I hear is in the tightness of the bass. I would chalk it up to the newer drivers being closer to the spec'd mechanical Q. I think drivers that have seen 25+ years of use have their spiders loosen a little like old springs will lose a little bit of tension.

If you're already comfortable with trimming around the screw cutout, I'd personally replace the dimensionals with new ones. But, that said, if you want vintage models, I have some I could dig out of storage. I can't remember if I already epoxied / dynamatted them.

Hello all, I am new to this forum and forums in general. I just purchased a set of SDA1c's. Something is pulling ME into the rabbit hole and I can't see light. And the journey begins. I know there are some of you shaking your head saying, welcome to the other side, I will be to you soon.
As I am learning how to take this road to the near perfect set of speakers, so far I have sealed the cabinets and braces,dynomatted the drivers and passives. What I am not understanding is how to go about gluing the magnets to the voice coil. How do you do it ? A picture would be great. I was going to order my new tweets but I am thinking now that the crossovers might be the first thing I should do, but not sure. could use any advice or info that I can get. I respect and admire the kind of knowledge that this forum has, and hope that someone can help me find the light in this rabbit hole.

westmassguy

The ceramic magnet gets a bead of Loctite Power Grab on the top and bottom where it meets the front and back plate. Smooth it out with your finger tip, and let them dry for a few hours.

strokin

Thank you for such a fast response. If I understand the picture correctly, are you saying on the top and bottom edge of the black ring around the magnet? Also I noticed in another thread that you had referred to using loctite,arylic,adheisive, then later you said not too, so can I use it on the mids? I did use it on the cabinet seams and brace mounts. Did I do the right thing?

westmassguy

Black ring? The Ceramic Magnet is dark grey in color, and is sandwiched between the front and back plate of the magnet assembly. I would never say not to use it, I discovered and tested it for use on the Magnet Assemblies. Prior to that, everyone was using JB Weld or Epoxies

strokin

Yeah I guess it is dk. grey, it looked black to my eyes. The reason I am so confused is I spoke with Polk Audio today and he said I have to remove the surrounds and cone in order to do it.

drumminman

No, WMG is correct. PA must have misunderstood your question. Re: tweeters first vs Xovers, I would probably do the Xovers first.

BTW, welcome to Club Polk!

strokin

Ok, I kinda thought the same thing. thanks for clearing that up for me. Still have many more crossover questions that I suppose I should go to other threads for. This whole SDA thing is making me all warm and fuzzy inside. Believe I will retire my B&W's when these are done. Thanks for the welcome

Cheers

westmassguy

strokin wrote: »

Ok, I kinda thought the same thing. thanks for clearing that up for me. Still have many more crossover questions that I suppose I should go to other threads for. This whole SDA thing is making me all warm and fuzzy inside. Believe I will retire my B&W's when these are done. Thanks for the welcome

Cheers

Yes, when you're ready, start your own thread. We've crapped on the OPs thread enough already.

strokin

Well, one thing is for sure, I just became a member but I know enough to know from just previous reading on this forum that I have the right guys helping me. I hope you don't mind me snuggling under your wing until the end of this project WMG. If my speakers end up looking half as good as your finish I will be happy.

westmassguy

As long as you buy me a drink first

strokin

You got it!

bcline

I guess I should feel officially crapped on?