Cleaning Pots - Infinity RS-II

So I'm not quite sure how to go about cleaning the Pots on my Infinity RS-II's so figured I ask the guru's here....

DO I just spray deoxit on the outside of the pot and work it back and forth, do I need to physically remove the knobs and do it that way, is there parts on the INSIDE of the cabinet in the crossover I need to mess with?

Teach me oh wise ones!
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)

Comments

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    I'm not wise one but on speaker pots, I put them face down without pressing drivers so need to use something on 4 corners and spray DeOxit properly to wet it inside.
    Turn a dozen times, soak it again so it flows inside, turn again dozen times.
    Couple times more and it's good.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    Mystery wrote: »
    I'm not wise one but on speaker pots, I put them face down without pressing drivers so need to use something on 4 corners and spray DeOxit properly to wet it inside.
    Turn a dozen times, soak it again so it flows inside, turn again dozen times.
    Couple times more and it's good.

    Gotcha.... The crossover is on a removeable panel with enough cable length (if I disconnect the woofers to put it on its back without moving the speaker (good thing since these are curved).

    May try it your way first for giggles.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Are there any holes on the pot body? If so, spray inside of those while working the knob. If there are no holes do as Mystery suggests and hope some of the DeOxit finds a way inside. After cleaning you should apply DeOxit Gold, which will add some lube.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Forgot to mention, you need to let the pots dry out before sending a signal through them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    Threw in some de-oxit when I got home and worked the lots back and forth. There is no way to get inside I can see.

    It's been a couple hour since I sprayed them and laid em face down for a bit so hope it got inside.

    That said I have a tech I am about to take em to for a gander.

    Hoping we can figure it out. He's much smarter than me and gonna be at the shop till around 2 am lol so we are good.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,497
    edited December 2014
    If they look like this type, I'd disasssemble and clean. I know some Infinity's used these. They can become real corroded depending on where speakers were stored.

    Potf.jpg
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited December 2014
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    If they look like this type, I'd disasssemble and clean. I know some Infinity's used these. They can become real corroded depending on where speakers were stored.

    Potf.jpg

    My Tech was talking about something like that and I think thats what I've got.....

    The mid range has some tension to it, the tweeter one is super smooth so either its in perfect condition, or its totally gone.

    Here is the back as seen at the crossover...

    IMAG0657.jpg
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    @SCompRacer‌ here is a closeup. After looking at the pots better there were some good spots to shoot some into the midrange pot, its much more smooth now, and the tweeter pot I hit from the top so it is good too.

    The other tweeter knob is just as smooth as this one so I am hoping once the de-oxit drys to try to fire them up again.

    5244E1C2-E50A-4489-8CE3-E51492FA8330.jpg
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    The larger pot has a bigger resistance coil, that's why you "feel" the wiper as it moves over the wire/coil. The smaller pot uses thinner resistance wire and is more closely spaced, and will feel smother. I serviced the exact same crossover last year, and had to remove, and disassemble them for cleaning. They were a PITA. Hopefully yours were not as bad, and the DeoxIT did it's thing. You can pre-test them with a multi-meter, and some alligator clips. Connect the meter leads to the two points, set the meter to read DCR, and slowly turn the knob. The resistance value should change as you turn the knob.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    The larger pot has a bigger resistance coil, that's why you "feel" the wiper as it moves over the wire/coil. The smaller pot uses thinner resistance wire and is more closely spaced, and will feel smother. I serviced the exact same crossover last year, and had to remove, and disassemble them for cleaning. They were a PITA. Hopefully yours were not as bad, and the DeoxIT did it's thing. You can pre-test them with a multi-meter, and some alligator clips. Connect the meter leads to the two points, set the meter to read DCR, and slowly turn the knob. The resistance value should change as you turn the knob.

    Awesome tip! I just got a multimeter myself so I will give this a try when I have time.

    It did make me feel better when both tweeters moved super smooth and both mids were a bit more rough.

    After the deoxit (and a lot of it) the mid range one moves better I just can feel it moving more. Its not nearly as bad as when I got it so I'm thinking the de-oxit got it.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    Thankfully folks the deoxit + new fuse solved my problem. Sounds quite good now. Still think I might have the woofers wired wrong, but am going to get em up and running first before messing with that.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,497
    @SCompRacer‌ here is a closeup. After looking at the pots better there were some good spots to shoot some into the midrange pot, its much more smooth now, and the tweeter pot I hit from the top so it is good too.

    The other tweeter knob is just as smooth as this one so I am hoping once the de-oxit drys to try to fire them up again.

    5244E1C2-E50A-4489-8CE3-E51492FA8330.jpg

    The backs of them two terminals (riveted) look real ugly. It could be the crimp is still good and contact is clean where you can't see. If you had the pot apart you could measure if any resistance exists from terminal to contact inside with your meter. I'd do it just cause I'd want to know.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    5244E1C2-E50A-4489-8CE3-E51492FA8330.jpg

    The backs of them two terminals (riveted) look real ugly. It could be the crimp is still good and contact is clean where you can't see. If you had the pot apart you could measure if any resistance exists from terminal to contact inside with your meter. I'd do it just cause I'd want to know.

    I may shoot those terminal's with some deoxit later tonight when we get home as it wont get played for a bit, but that said, the midrange pot was fully working except when I get to "min" it cuts out entirely which I expect.

    Thankfully DUE TO THIS, I can 100% verify the tweeters are working since the mid's turn off.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • TNHNDYMAN
    TNHNDYMAN Posts: 2,145
    Great news on the tweets. Glad things are getting better and you are that much closer to enjoying them fully.
    2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.

  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,497
    A pic of a pot I cleaned some years back. IIRC these were in an AR speaker. This one wasn't too bad, seen em worse.

    cid_000701c77b63f24d00e06501a8c0znf.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    A pic of a pot I cleaned some years back. IIRC these were in an AR speaker. This one wasn't too bad, seen em worse.

    cid_000701c77b63f24d00e06501a8c0znf.jpg


    May see what I can do about opening the mid pot up to clean it....

    Hesitant because I don't want to bust it and the inductors are directly tied to the pot so removing it is harder.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)