SDA trade
Comments
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boston1450 wrote: »I hope everything works out for you & your friend.
Thanks, now I've become concerned with magnet shift during transport of my 2Bs! Maybe I should pull the mids tonight and epoxy them...2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server -
If you can, transport them on their backs. If it isn't possible, then you *should* be fine transporting them an hour away.
I made a 7 hour trip from Indianapolis to DSM with a pair of 2.3TLs, one on its side, the other on its back, in the back of a Scion tC (not the smoothest riding car...at all) and the magnets were all fine upon arriving home."Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
Loctite Power Grab is easier to use than any epoxy. Cleanup with soap and water. Any good hardware store, Home Depot, Loews etc. will have it.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Mr. Bubbles wrote: »westmassguy wrote: »Sounds like a no brainer.
"Brass/copper composite spikes were installed into the new oak pedestals for incredible speaker stability and speaker isolation (de-coupling from the floor)"
The absolute opposite of what spikes do. Why this fallacy continues I'll never know.
This depends on the spike itself and the surface it sits on.
Spikes are generally considered couplers but in some situations can actually be used to de-couple.
a good explanation i have found in the past is here;
http://www.genesisloudspeakers.com/whitepaper/Genesis_Loudspeaker_Coupling_Decoupling.pdf
Only if the spikes are made from an vibration absorbing material, like sorbothane, urethane, rubber etc. These are brass/copper, attached to an oak sub-base. That's direct coupling.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »Only if the spikes are made from an vibration absorbing material, like sorbothane, urethane, rubber etc. These are brass/copper, attached to an oak sub-base. That's direct coupling.
The only way I think of de-coupling speakers from floor is to hang them from ceiling.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
As Paul Simon once said, one man's ceiling is another man's floor.2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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You just might want to JB Weld your MW drivers before subjecting them to a potentially disastrous road trip. Sometimes, as little as a mouse f*a*r*t can dislodge the magnet/pole piece on em. Edit: I didn't notice the previous posts regarding the magnet shift subject. A search will bring up numerous how-to threads.
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Would the loctite power grab be better than JB weld? Does anyone have directions on where to apply it, or a link to a post detailing the process. I tried searching but most of the links or photos were dead from the old forum.2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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You just might want to JB Weld your MW drivers before subjecting them to a potentially disastrous road trip. Sometimes, as little as a mouse f*a*r*t can dislodge the magnet/pole piece on em.
+1 and it's easy and not time consuming.
And take some with you to your friends place and if swap happens, epoxy the drivers before bringing them as I don't see drivers were epoxied in the upgrade post.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
You just might want to JB Weld your MW drivers before subjecting them to a potentially disastrous road trip. Sometimes, as little as a mouse f*a*r*t can dislodge the magnet/pole piece on em.
+1 and it's easy and not time consuming.
And take some with you to your friends place and if swap happens, epoxy the drivers before bringing them as I don't see drivers were epoxied in the upgrade post.
"- All midwoofer driver magnets were epoxied to decrease any likelihood of the magnets shifting and locking up the voice coils"
Loctite is easy peasy, no fuss, no mess. Apply a bead around the top and bottom of the ceramic magnet where it meets the front and back plate. Smooth it out with your finger tip, wipe off any excess with a damp rag, and let it dry for a few hours. Dries clear and flat, and contains no Silicone.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »You just might want to JB Weld your MW drivers before subjecting them to a potentially disastrous road trip. Sometimes, as little as a mouse f*a*r*t can dislodge the magnet/pole piece on em.
+1 and it's easy and not time consuming.
And take some with you to your friends place and if swap happens, epoxy the drivers before bringing them as I don't see drivers were epoxied in the upgrade post.
"- All midwoofer driver magnets were epoxied to decrease any likelihood of the magnets shifting and locking up the voice coils"
Loctite is easy peasy, no fuss, no mess. Apply a bead around the top and bottom of the ceramic magnet where it meets the front and back plate. Smooth it out with your finger tip, wipe off any excess with a damp rag, and let it dry for a few hours. Dries clear and flat, and contains no Silicone.
Thanks WM - I picked up the loctite you suggested and just finished all four drivers - as you said, easy peasy, no fuss, no mess.2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server -
ambiophonics wrote: »westmassguy wrote: »You just might want to JB Weld your MW drivers before subjecting them to a potentially disastrous road trip. Sometimes, as little as a mouse f*a*r*t can dislodge the magnet/pole piece on em.
+1 and it's easy and not time consuming.
And take some with you to your friends place and if swap happens, epoxy the drivers before bringing them as I don't see drivers were epoxied in the upgrade post.
"- All midwoofer driver magnets were epoxied to decrease any likelihood of the magnets shifting and locking up the voice coils"
Loctite is easy peasy, no fuss, no mess. Apply a bead around the top and bottom of the ceramic magnet where it meets the front and back plate. Smooth it out with your finger tip, wipe off any excess with a damp rag, and let it dry for a few hours. Dries clear and flat, and contains no Silicone.
Thanks WM - I picked up the loctite you suggested and just finished all four drivers - as you said, easy peasy, no fuss, no mess.
More than welcomeHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »Mr. Bubbles wrote: »westmassguy wrote: »Sounds like a no brainer.
"Brass/copper composite spikes were installed into the new oak pedestals for incredible speaker stability and speaker isolation (de-coupling from the floor)"
The absolute opposite of what spikes do. Why this fallacy continues I'll never know.
This depends on the spike itself and the surface it sits on.
Spikes are generally considered couplers but in some situations can actually be used to de-couple.
a good explanation i have found in the past is here;
http://www.genesisloudspeakers.com/whitepaper/Genesis_Loudspeaker_Coupling_Decoupling.pdf
Only if the spikes are made from an vibration absorbing material, like sorbothane, urethane, rubber etc. These are brass/copper, attached to an oak sub-base. That's direct coupling.
Once again ; there are more variables to consider than just what the spikes are made of. The surface the speakers are sitting on have a tremendous impact. Whether or not spike cups are used has an impact. Positioning of the drivers in the cabinet, and speaker mass have an impact. Whether or not the cone of the driver is moving in towards the magnet or out , away from the magnet will effect the coupling/ decoupling somewhat.
I do agree however, that in MOST cases, with an average proportioned cabinet, speakers supported on carpet or wooden surface using no cups, if the speaker has sufficient mass, the use of spikes will predominately couple the speaker to the floor.
The problem with this is that in most homes with wooden flooring and subflooring the structure is not strong enough to prevent itself from resonating at some point. Also the speed of sound through a solid is drastically different than the speed of sound through air, which can create a muddying of the sound if the solid is not sufficiently rigid to prevent transferring the energy to other materials around us (walls, picture frames, tables couches, etc.). So the floorings that are easiest to couple to are usually the ones that we least want to couple to, from a musical accuracy standpoint.
Alas, this all comes down to personal preference again as there are also many other things going on when coupling/ decoupling and in the end it is like everything else, simply a trade off of something for something else.
If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
W/o putting a dime into the studios as far done as you say they will sound much better than stock 2Bs. A few years back I got into this huge bruhaha over that I got bone stock 2bs that were in a 20 y/o coma and I didn't think they needed anything done to them. By an overwhelmingly majority I was told no, electronics change over time, environmental issues effect the speakers so I did the full monty on mine for the better. Studios aren't all that bad looking just different and if black even better , make the trade after some serious listening.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Looks like they are going home with me!2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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AWESOME..... Congrats. Let us know how they sound when you get them hooked up to your gear. Dont bust a nut lifting them SDA's
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2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server -
Lets see. I take it the 2b's are on the outside & the 2b ''all black''studio's are on the inside ? Temporary placement i take it..
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What a wall of sound.
Congrats on your SDAs.
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boston1450 wrote: »Lets see. I take it the 2b's are on the outside & the 2b ''all black''studio's are on the inside ? Temporary placement i take it
Yep - just comparing the size and look, for testing we set each set up individually where to inside pair is located (and the speaker wire that comes through the floor) and moved the other pair to the other side of the room so they wouldn't interfere. I just got the studios home to my place this morning and partially setup. I'm not sure if the Yamaha R-S700 will have enough power or if I should bring the TFM-35 into the mix.
2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server -
Well, it's been a week and I have to say I love these speakers. They don't look as nice as the old pair but they sure do sound good. I tried them with the Yamaha R-S700, and they sounded okay but a little thin. I then plugged in the TFM-35 and immediately noticed improved bass response and overall weight to the music. They image incredibly well and will easily play louder than I can comfortably listen. The bass is much tighter, faster and deeper than my old SDAs. To me it is noticeable even at fairly low listening levels. It's not that the old pair sound bad at all, these just sound better! I wonder how hard it would be to have them veneered...
2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server -
Last night I opened these speakers up for no other reason than to see the upgrades I was told they had with my own eyes. It doesn't look like the neatest job but some of that is probably due to the larger components and small PCB. Two things -
I see one cap is labeled 5.6mf, shouldn't this be a 5.8mf for the TL mod? Would .2mf make any difference, or if it was a custom value perhaps they don't relabel them?
I see that the previous owner added some acoustic foam on the side walls next to the passive, I removed this as I has read that you don't want polyfill, black hole, or other foam type stuff interfering with the passive radiator, any reason that foam should be there?
The speakers still sound great!2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server -
ambiophonics wrote: »Last night I opened these speakers up for no other reason than to see the upgrades I was told they had with my own eyes. It doesn't look like the neatest job but some of that is probably due to the larger components and small PCB. Two things -
I see one cap is labeled 5.6mf, shouldn't this be a 5.8mf for the TL mod? Would .2mf make any difference, or if it was a custom value perhaps they don't relabel them?
I see that the previous owner added some acoustic foam on the side walls next to the passive, I removed this as I has read that you don't want polyfill, black hole, or other foam type stuff interfering with the passive radiator, any reason that foam should be there?
The speakers still sound great!
Friday bump2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server -
ambiophonics wrote: »I see one cap is labeled 5.6mf, shouldn't this be a 5.8mf for the TL mod? Would .2mf make any difference, or if it was a custom value perhaps they don't relabel them?
Those should be fine and within the 5% variance allowed (5% of 5.6 is 0.28). But, this could also go down to 5.32 uF (5.6 - 5%), so it would be best if they were at least somehow value matched, one speaker to the other.ambiophonics wrote: »I see that the previous owner added some acoustic foam on the side walls next to the passive, I removed this as I has read that you don't want polyfill, black hole, or other foam type stuff interfering with the passive radiator, any reason that foam should be there?
The speakers still sound great!
How do they sound without the foam inside? You said they sounded "great!" with the foam in place. Only your ears can tell if it should be there in your own speakers. It's a pretty easy change to try both ways. It won't sound better to you one way or the other just because it's supposed to. Give it a try and let us know what YOU think!
