DIY power cables

kevhed72
kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
edited August 2014 in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
For stranded wire....should the bare wire strands be solders prior to connecting to plugs? Does it really matter?
Post edited by kevhed72 on
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  • Moose68Bash
    Moose68Bash Posts: 3,843
    edited July 2014
    Not with any of the "plugs" I have used -- i.e., Furutech or Wattgate.
    Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.

    Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One.

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  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,271
    edited July 2014
    Doug and headrott helped me with soldering when I installed an IEC inlet in my SC-05, which had bare stranded wire.

    These were their instructions: "You don't want to just melt the solder with the iron. The wire and the part you are soldering must be hot enough to melt the solder, so you have a good connection. It's best to tin the wire and connector first. Melt a little on the iron, then touch that to the connection. This helps transfer heat to what you are soldering. Once the wire and the connector are hot enough, the solder will melt into them."

    Edit: are these solder connectors you are using or set screw types?
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  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited July 2014
    Hubel screw type. I would rather not mess with the solder unless it makes a difference....
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  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,271
    edited July 2014
    I was originally going to go with the screw type so I wouldn't have to solder. Just ignore my nonsense above, I thought you were asking whether you needed to apply solder to the wire before making a solder connection.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,562
    edited July 2014
    NO do not solder.


    Just make sure no stray wires and then check for continuity across all holes blades and pins. What you are checking with the tester is to make sure double sure no stray wire are touching another conductor at all. So no stray positive to negative or ground. Most all plugs will isolate with plastic but you never know.
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  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    edited July 2014
    In the industrial and military areas, good engineering practice dictates that stranded wire not be solder-tinned when used with screw-head connectors. The main reason is that with time and temperature the solder-tinning will cold-flow and allow the terminal to loosen
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  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited July 2014
    Interesting.....thanks folks
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  • CoolJazz
    CoolJazz Posts: 570
    edited July 2014
    speedskater wrote: »
    in the industrial and military areas, good engineering practice dictates that stranded wire not be solder-tinned when used with screw-head connectors. The main reason is that with time and temperature the solder-tinning will cold-flow and allow the terminal to loosen

    x 2!!
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."

    More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping."
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  • helipilotdoug
    helipilotdoug Posts: 1,229
    edited July 2014
    CoolJazz wrote: »
    x 2!!
    X 3!!! DO NOT TIN/SOLDER when terminating screw terminal connectors.
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
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  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    edited July 2014
    And now the secret way to solder-tin stranded wire:
    Strip the insulation back about 3/16 inch. Solder-tin these short exposed strands. Now strip back another 3/8 inch of the insulation. Make sure that the non-soldered strands are under the terminal.
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  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited July 2014
    ^ like that
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  • Glen B
    Glen B Posts: 269
    edited August 2014
    Speedskater wrote: »
    And now the secret way to solder-tin stranded wire:
    Strip the insulation back about 3/16 inch. Solder-tin these short exposed strands. Now strip back another 3/8 inch of the insulation. Make sure that the non-soldered strands are under the terminal.

    +1. That is how I do it sometimes, usually with large guage wire that has a high number count of very fine strands that make it difficult to insert in the terminals without coming apart. With any other type of stranded wire, I don't solder.
    Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.

    Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.

    Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers.
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited August 2014
    If your power cable is heating up, you have much larger issues at hand.

    Compression fittings of stranded cable is usually preferred in areas that aren't going to be exposed to heat/cool cycles. This is why I chuckle at those here on the forum tinning their wires for use in Speakon connections. The stranded wire gets a much better connection through compression than if it were stuck together in the tinning process and then held under a screw.

    Either compress bare strands or properly solder, but don't tin together the mess and expect a screw to hold it.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited August 2014
    Here is a pic of the finished product....not too shabby for the first time.
    Question on the 1st pic....I assumed the N on the plug was for the NEUTRAL wire and L was for the HOT, or "LIVE"....I'd hate to assume and blow something up at this point...
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited August 2014
    Nice, clean, work!
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    edited August 2014
    No assembly photos?
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  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited August 2014
    No photos....but I am in the process of shortening another cable for my HT, when I concluded my wire stripper tool is dull as hell. Is there any secret to keeping these sharp? I have gone through 3 now in my lifetime (2 basement finishes and numerous audio related uses) and was wondering if I just pitch these?
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  • Glen B
    Glen B Posts: 269
    edited August 2014
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    when I concluded my wire stripper tool is dull as hell. Is there any secret to keeping these sharp? I have gone through 3 now in my lifetime (2 basement finishes and numerous audio related uses) and was wondering if I just pitch these?

    I have been using my strippers regularly for many years and have not had any problems. You need to start with good quality strippers. Ditto for other hand tools. I have two automatics and one manual that I use depending on type of insulation and location. The same for cable assembly and crimping, you need the right tools for the job.

    IMG_0472-vert.jpg~original
    Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.

    Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.

    Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers.
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  • helipilotdoug
    helipilotdoug Posts: 1,229
    edited August 2014
    The best wire stripper.
    blade.jpg
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
    SRS 2.1TL
    SDA 2BTL's
    CSiA6
    FXiA4
    FXiA6
    SDA 2A's
    Monitor 10A's
    http://www.douglasconnection.com
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