Polk Audio RTi A7, issue with wires
FernandoTorres
Posts: 43
Hello, I recently bought a pair of RTiA7, and Im having problems with needed cambles
I have 4 pieces, 2 metres each, of Neotech OFC 2x2,63mm2 13AWG. They have almost the same thickness as the binding posts, so they are quite difficult to install, and most banana-plugs cant be used with them (anyway I was told better not to use any plugs, ¿is this true?)
I was recommended to bought that, to handle 300w per each RTiA7. BUT... if bi-amp, each cable would be handle 150w each...!! and my DENON x3000 AV/Receiver is 105w per channel.
I believe that the cable that I was recommended to buy is too thick. But from what I read about cables, more thicker they are, the better. SO MY QUESTION IS... Shoud I replace them?? Would I have any audio-quality decrease using them??.
BTW, future rear RTiA3 will need exactly the same cables?
Thanks a lot,
Fernando Torres
I have 4 pieces, 2 metres each, of Neotech OFC 2x2,63mm2 13AWG. They have almost the same thickness as the binding posts, so they are quite difficult to install, and most banana-plugs cant be used with them (anyway I was told better not to use any plugs, ¿is this true?)
I was recommended to bought that, to handle 300w per each RTiA7. BUT... if bi-amp, each cable would be handle 150w each...!! and my DENON x3000 AV/Receiver is 105w per channel.
I believe that the cable that I was recommended to buy is too thick. But from what I read about cables, more thicker they are, the better. SO MY QUESTION IS... Shoud I replace them?? Would I have any audio-quality decrease using them??.
BTW, future rear RTiA3 will need exactly the same cables?
Thanks a lot,
Fernando Torres
Post edited by FernandoTorres on
Comments
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Just to clarify, are you trying to put bare wire through the top of the binding post or the side?
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Well those are good news... my indead is just between 13AWG and 12AWG, since it is 2,64mm2.
It is not easy for me to connect them, but that dont worries me much. What I do care is audio-quality, since those cables are for 300watts and I will use them with 105w. Im talking just about cables, I know that I should go for a better amp, thats not possible for now $$. -
You most likely need to take the plugs out of the end of the binding post so you can use bananas. They must put plastic plugs in the binding post because the other side of the world's outlets use a A/C plug that looks as if it would fit right in there ... Well if you want to let the magic smoke out of your speakers it would be a great way to do it.
those binding post should take up to 10ga. wire most all I have seen would.
image DSCN2671.jpg are the plugs I am talking about -
Im trying bare wire in the side.
Can bare wire be inserted by the top? I believe that is just for banana-plugs -
You're correct, bare in the side. It sounds like a silly question to ask, but I remember someone a few months back trying to use the wrong hole.
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also you cannot really bi-amp with a receiver. that's marketing fluff.
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Are you trying to feed two separate strands into one binding post?
No, Im trying to use one bare cable (2x2,64mm2=13AWG) at side-hole at binding post. (Im thinking on bi-amp but using the 4 binding post). -
so, to all...
Would I have any audio-quality decrease using 2,64mm2=13AWG cable (designed to 300w) but using it at 105w?
are banana-plugs recommended just for being "confortable/easy to install", or they improve audio quality somehow? -
You should have no problem inserting 13 gauge wire into the side holes of the binding posts. If you are, you're doing something wrong.
One does not buy speaker wire for how many watts it can handle. One buys speaker wire for how it sounds.
Using banana plugs makes life easier all around. Besides, bare copper wire will oxidize.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You should have no problem inserting 13 gauge wire into the side holes of the binding posts. If you are, you're doing something wrong.
One does not buy speaker wire for how many watts it can handle. One buys speaker wire for how it sounds.
Using banana plugs makes life easier all around. Besides, bare copper wire will oxidize.
Thanks, I have 13AWG, it is pretty thick (2,64mm2) and I typical banana-plug does not work since 13AWG cable has almost same side of their hole and its screws cant enter, so I cant add the plastic/metal shield. I saw there are some banana-plugs where cable is inserted by one side, and has no shield, those may work. -
13 awg is not that thick. I've used 9 awg speaker wire with bananas. Something is off here, but I don't know what it is.
mmm cable model is Neotech KS1007, OFC 2x2,63mm2... tables says that a 2,50mm2 = 13 AWG, so my is between 13AWG and 12AWG, tables also says that it is almost 2mm diameter... but my student's ruler says almost 3mm diameter (just cooper) -
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13 awg is not that thick. I've used 9 awg speaker wire with bananas. Something is off here, but I don't know what it is.
I have to agree on one of the 3 threads he has going I thought I read where he also was stating that this 13ga. wire was too thick for his bananas and I've had bananas that would take much much larger wire that I would ever use. Close to 6ga. I believe. -
Fernando, have you stripped about a quarter of an inch of insulation off the end and twisted the exposed wire into a tight package to insert into the binding post ? You can't just insert it untwisted or unstripped.
I did unstripped, same long as binding post (so no visible copper).
I DID NOT twisted, it is already twisted inside. It has about 3-6 copper twisted lines, each line is made of several thin copper lines, so I though that twist it was not a good idea. -
Can you post a picture? I want to see this.
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Also, don't biamp with your receiver as it's just a waste. Run a single set of cables to each speaker and replace the binding post jumpers with some short wire.Main Surround -
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FernandoTorres wrote: »I did unstripped, same long as binding post (so no visible copper).
I DID NOT twisted, it is already twisted inside. It has about 3-6 copper twisted lines, each line is made of several thin copper lines, so I though that twist it was not a good idea.
Something isn't right here. Lets get some facts straight.
Your ends of the cable are bare copper....yes ? Twist the ends so they make a solid stem. If it is not bare, you need to cut some plastic/insulation off until you have a tad under an inch of bare wire.
Unscrew the nut on the binding post, you will see a hole on the post. Not the hole on the end of the nut where the banana plugs would go. Insert the wire into the hole on the side of the post and tighten the nut. Make sure not to get any of the wires coating/plastic/insulation in the binding post or have any of the wire touching another post.
We are assuming your cables came with bare ends, no connectors such as spades on the ends.HT SYSTEM-
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Nothing wrong w/ going w/ banana plugs. Yes they make life much easier in terms of hooking up and losing nothing and gaining that ability of convertabilty,meaning most speakers take banana plugs so you swap them very easily. There are many types from compression to the type which I use, which are the double set-screw type. Once torqued down correctly you have a great connection.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
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May seem obvious, but if you do decide to bi-amp make sure you take off the bridges Polk ships with the speakers that connect the top binding posts to the bottom ones.
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Something isn't right here. Lets get some facts straight.
Your ends of the cable are bare copper....yes ? Twist the ends so they make a solid stem. If it is not bare, you need to cut some plastic/insulation off until you have a tad under an inch of bare wire.
Unscrew the nut on the binding post, you will see a hole on the post. Not the hole on the end of the nut where the banana plugs would go. Insert the wire into the hole on the side of the post and tighten the nut. Make sure not to get any of the wires coating/plastic/insulation in the binding post or have any of the wire touching another post.
We are assuming your cables came with bare ends, no connectors such as spades on the ends.
Yeah thanks... I was just not twisting to make a solid stem, since this OFC cable seems to be already twisted. Then I did it, and now Im enjoying them!!! -
leftwinger57 wrote: »Nothing wrong w/ going w/ banana plugs. Yes they make life much easier in terms of hooking up and losing nothing and gaining that ability of convertabilty,meaning most speakers take banana plugs so you swap them very easily. There are many types from compression to the type which I use, which are the double set-screw type. Once torqued down correctly you have a great connection.
Thanks... I chosed not to used banana plugs, by now Im using bare wife, then if I need them I will... but for now bare wires is ok
