SDA's in the house! (Little ones)

Bigerik
Bigerik Posts: 149
edited July 2014 in Vintage Speakers
A near mint pair of SDA CRS+ followed me home yesterday. Pics to follow!
Post edited by Bigerik on
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Comments

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited July 2014
    Bigerik getting little ones?
    Hehe...
    Congrats!
    Where are the pictures???

    I just got my 2nd pair of CRS+'s after selling 1st pair few months back:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=99465&d=1405230145
    attachment.php?attachmentid=99464&d=1405230145

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    Only thing small about them is their size next to the bigger SDA's. But they sure don't sound small! You're going to love them, and the upgrades are plentiful and pay off in droves.

    Here are mine:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?137026-My-new-4.1TL-s-are-complete!
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Thanks guys!
    They are great speakers already, and I can't wait to hear how incredible they are once I get the mods done. Yes, the mod bug has hit hard already. I'm probably gonna start with just resealing the drivers. I can't imagine that they aren't leaking a bit right now from just stuff getting tired over 27 years.

    The RDO 194's are of course tempting too. :)
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Mystery wrote: »
    Bigerik getting little ones?
    Hehe...
    Congrats!
    Where are the pictures???

    I just got my 2nd pair of CRS+'s after selling 1st pair few months back:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=99465&d=1405230145
    attachment.php?attachmentid=99464&d=1405230145

    Well, that saves me having to put up pics of mine, as they look exactly like yours. Stands and all. :)
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    To clarify, mine are 1986 vintage, so blade/blade not the blade/pin I would have preferred. But SDA's are pretty scarce up in Canada in general, and finding an absolutely mint pair will not happen often.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    Ah, so those are the original CRS, not the CRS+. Yours have the two tweeters?
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    I do find them a bit on the bright side, with not as much bass as I would have expected (Not that I was expecting thunderous bass!). Is there a good way to judge how well the cabinets are sealed? I pressed on the drivers (all of which thankfully move freely!), and they pretty well bounced right back. Any thoughts?
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    nspindel wrote: »
    Ah, so those are the original CRS, not the CRS+. Yours have the two tweeters?

    Nope. Mine are the early generation CRS + with one tweeter, and the blade/blade connector.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    Ah yes. Dave (westmassguy) ended up debating a while back whether it was worthwhile to mod those to the latest spec. The 1986 version had two 130uF caps in parallel in each crossover. Those caps were removed in the later iterations. If you were to re-cap those, those four 130uF caps would cost a fortune for good ones, and I argued that this money would be better spent getting the parts necessary (different drivers, for one thing) to build a 1989 version. Can't remember where that debate went....
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    nspindel wrote: »
    Ah yes. Dave (westmassguy) ended up debating a while back whether it was worthwhile to mod those to the latest spec. The 1986 version had two 130uF caps in parallel in each crossover. Those caps were removed in the later iterations. If you were to re-cap those, those four 130uF caps would cost a fortune for good ones, and I argued that this money would be better spent getting the parts necessary (different drivers, for one thing) to build a 1989 version. Can't remember where that debate went....

    I think I saw that thread. Seemed a not insignificant amount of work (and money!) to do the upgrade.

    If I remember correctly, aside from all the crossover parts, I need:

    2 RDO 198's
    2 6511's (I think)
    Two TL 4.1 crossover boards

    and then the passive is still wrong, isn't it?

    Just check and 130uf Solens from Parts Express are $50 each. Ouch.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    Found the thread:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?157478-SDA-CRS-Cap-upgrade-question&highlight=130uF

    It's a significant amount of work and money to re-do these speakers in the 1986 design, too. Thanks to 520uF of capacitance that was removed from later revisions! The point that I was making is that if you're going to start upgrading these, as long as the prices are in the same ballpark then why would you want anything other than to end up with the most recent design?
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    Dave will be here to argue the counterpoint soon enough! And listen to every word he has to say, he's a lot smarter than me!!!!! It's just that in this case, I"m right and he's wrong :twisted:
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2014
    Bigerik wrote: »
    I think I saw that thread. Seemed a not insignificant amount of work (and money!) to do the upgrade.

    If I remember correctly, aside from all the crossover parts, I need:

    2 RDO 198's
    2 6511's (I think)
    Two TL 4.1 crossover boards

    and then the passive is still wrong, isn't it?

    Just check and 130uf Solens from Parts Express are $50 each. Ouch.
    You can also use three 90uf Dayton 5% which ends up cheaper
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2014
    nspindel wrote: »
    Dave will be here to argue the counterpoint soon enough! And listen to every word he has to say, he's a lot smarter than me!!!!! It's just that in this case, I"m right and he's wrong :twisted:
    You really need to put down the crack pipe once in a while...JK
    My point was, if the drivers and crossovers are good, the upgrades can be done in stages. My 2ATLs were done over a years time, and are easily equal to a similarly equipped 2BTL. If you can find a donor 4th generation crossover with harnesses, that's a viable option. You could also get gimpods boards, and start from scratch too. It's all up to you. They're your babies now, to do with as you please.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    I lost my crack pipe. Been looking everywhere for it!!!
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2014
    Look in your Cra....never mind
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • tophatjohnny
    tophatjohnny Posts: 4,182
    edited July 2014
    Man, there's a minty pair in my backyard right now and they are so beautiful. Manual and original cable. Yes, I saw them and was so close to buying them, but my money is going somewhere else. Any interest you can PM me and I'll get it happening for you, and yes these babies and mint! CRS+
    "if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
    *****************************
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    These speakers never cease to amaze me. When you get them dialed in, they really are that good!
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    edited July 2014
    Man, there's a minty pair in my backyard right now and they are so beautiful. Manual and original cable. Yes, I saw them and was so close to buying them, but my money is going somewhere else. Any interest you can PM me and I'll get it happening for you, and yes these babies and mint! CRS+

    Sent you a PM.
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2014
    Bigerik wrote: »
    I do find them a bit on the bright side, with not as much bass as I would have expected (Not that I was expecting thunderous bass!). Is there a good way to judge how well the cabinets are sealed? I pressed on the drivers (all of which thankfully move freely!), and they pretty well bounced right back. Any thoughts?
    That's not how you check for air tightness. You must remove the grill from the PR, then put the screws back in, and press in on the PR. The 2 woofers should pop out, and stay out for about 3 seconds, then slowly return to their regular position. The brightness is due to the horrendous SL2000 tweeters, and aging NP Electrolytics in the Lo-Pass section of the Crossovers. Replacing the "Sub-Base Drive" Inductor will also dramatically improve the bass output.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,639
    edited July 2014
    congrats on your CRS's Bigerik
    ..
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    That's not how you check for air tightness. You must remove the grill from the PR, then put the screws back in, and press in on the PR. The 2 woofers should pop out, and stay out for about 3 seconds, then slowly return to their regular position. The brightness is due to the horrendous SL2000 tweeters, and aging NP Electrolytics in the Lo-Pass section of the Crossovers. Replacing the "Sub-Base Drive" Inductor will also dramatically improve the bass output.

    Excellent. Thanks very much. Just the kind of info I was hoping for.

    Just out of curiosity, are aging seals something that can be taken for granted that they will fail? Should I just plan to do them anyway?
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    boston1450 wrote: »
    congrats on your CRS's Bigerik

    Thanks much!
    Nice to have Polks in the house again.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2014
    Bigerik wrote: »
    Excellent. Thanks very much. Just the kind of info I was hoping for.

    Just out of curiosity, are aging seals something that can be taken for granted that they will fail? Should I just plan to do them anyway?
    It depends. If you do the full cabinet mods, Hurricane Nuts or Larry's Rings, AND the original gaskets are unscathed and intact, you won't need new gaskets. You want gaskets as thin as possible, which the originals are. If you're going to keep the original Phillips Head Sheet Metal Screws, then new gaskets might help if you have leakage.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited July 2014
    Erik, did you get the stands too? If not, what are you using and how far from the back wall do you have them. No toe in, right?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited July 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Erik, did you get the stands too? If not, what are you using and how far from the back wall do you have them. No toe in, right?
    He got stands...
    Bigerik wrote: »
    Well, that saves me having to put up pics of mine, as they look exactly like yours. Stands and all. :)

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • tophatjohnny
    tophatjohnny Posts: 4,182
    edited July 2014
    vmaxer wrote: »
    Sent you a PM.
    your inbox is full
    "if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
    *****************************
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Erik, did you get the stands too? If not, what are you using and how far from the back wall do you have them. No toe in, right?

    Yup. Got the original Polk stands too. All in mint shape. I've been playing with distance from the back wall. Probably about 6 inches right now. No toe in.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited July 2014
    How far are they from the side walls of the room?
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    nspindel wrote: »
    How far are they from the side walls of the room?
    3-4 feet on one side. Lots of room on the other. (They are on a long wall.)