monitor 7 polyswitch

jeff24

my apologies,but looking again these do have the poly switch that's shutting them down,icant read the #s and such on the switch to order a replacement,but I would like to upgrade the caps as well parts express is where my parts come from,im on a tight budget now working on a car as well,i don't wanna blow the highs but without distortion 120 wpc would be to ok yes?thanks in advance.

jeff24

bypassing the switch for now

westmassguy

You can order replacement Polyswitches from Polk Customer Service. Most of us replace them with .5 ohm Mills MRA-12 or .47ohm Mundorf Mox Resistors when refreshing the crossovers. This eliminates many of the problems associated with the Polyswitches, but removes the safety feature they provide.

george daniel

^^^^^^^ what he said!!! however if you do as suggested!!you will need to exercise self control with the volume!!as your protection for the tweeters have been removed!!which should not be a problem!as long as you feed them good high current power,,,, ex; I replaced my poly switches with resistors years ago,,,and have never blown a tweeter,,,and I might add that I also upgraded the amp,,,your speakers play very well with tubes btw,,,,good luck

gdb

Or.....you could employ the original, old-school protection method that Polk once used on some of their speaker systems..........install a fast-blo fuse of the appropriate amperage. They're either "good", or, they're "blown" - simple.

westmassguy

gdb wrote: »

Or.....you could employ the original, old-school protection method that Polk once used on some of their speaker systems..........install a fast-blo fuse of the appropriate amperage. They're either "good", or, they're "blown" - simple.

True, and many of the Binding Post Cups still have the three holes for mounting a fuse block. They put three black pop rivets, and some hot glue to seal them.