My girls in their sexy new clothes

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Comments

  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited June 2014
    Great Work! The cherry veneer looks really sweet.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited June 2014
    They came out nice, enjoy!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited June 2014
    Very nice work and the added benefit is they sound really nice too
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • Thorton
    Thorton Posts: 1,324
    edited June 2014
    Those look amazing. Nice job!
    _____________________________________________________________________________________________
    Ethernet Filter: GigaFOILv4 with Keces P3 LPS
    Source: Roon via ethernet to DAC interface
    DAC: Bricasti M1SE
    Pre/Pro: Marantz AV8805
    Tube Preamp Buffer: Tortuga TPB.V1
    Amp1: Nord One NC1200DM Signature, Amp2: W4S MC-5, AMP3: W4S MMC-7
    Front: Salk SoundScape 8's, Center: Salk SoundScape C7
    Surround: Polk FXIA6, Surround Back: Polk RTIA9, Atmos: Polk 70-RT
    Subs: 2 - Rythmik F25's
    IC & Speaker Cables: Acoustic Zen, Wireworld, Signal Cable
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    Room Treatments: GIK Acoustics
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,759
    edited June 2014
    Wish I had those skills. Nice job man!!
  • Sea
    Sea Posts: 317
    edited July 2014
    Great work. I am in the planning stages to veneer my 12c's. Your pictures and descriptions will be a huge help. Thanks.
    Main-Carver TFM35(2),Carver C11 ,Carver SD/A 360 CD,Carver TX11 ,Grace Digital Tuner, Pioneer PL707 TT,Polk SDA1C
    Downstairs -Carver M1.5t, Carver C1 Pre, Carver TX10 Tuner, Carver TL3200 CD Player, Dual 1009 TT,Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl
    Study - Carver AV634 Amp, Carver CT7 Pre, Carver DTL50 CD Player, Polk RTA12c
  • Sea
    Sea Posts: 317
    edited July 2014
    Did you remove the vinyl?
    Main-Carver TFM35(2),Carver C11 ,Carver SD/A 360 CD,Carver TX11 ,Grace Digital Tuner, Pioneer PL707 TT,Polk SDA1C
    Downstairs -Carver M1.5t, Carver C1 Pre, Carver TX10 Tuner, Carver TL3200 CD Player, Dual 1009 TT,Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl
    Study - Carver AV634 Amp, Carver CT7 Pre, Carver DTL50 CD Player, Polk RTA12c
  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    edited July 2014
    I did not remove the vinyl. I cleaned them with 409 and then denatured alcohol to remove any wax. I scrapped / removed any loose vinyl by the edges etc. I lightly sanded the entire speaker to make sure there were no bumps.Some of the edges on mine especially on the bottom needed extra sanding, as the wood had swelled from moisture. After I was satisfied with the over all smoothness of the surface I filled any nicks with wood putty. A couple of the corners were pretty beat up so I used JB Quick Wood to rebuild them and sanded them square. Once all the prep was done I wiped them down again with denatured alcohol and applied 3 coats of clear lacquer to all of the repaired areas to seal them. After the lacquer had dried I did one more final wipe down and began to apply the veneer. I cut the veneer approx 1/2 to 1" wider than I needed and made a long, continuous piece that was equal to the width of the top, both sides and the bottom. That way I could cut one side piece from that, then the top piece, then the other side and finally the bottom. That way I was able to line up the grain to look continuous from the top and down on both sides. The bottom was not as important to me since you really are not going to see it.