IEC Inlet Questions

Hermitism

Been reading up on Gold vs. Rhodium and here are a few comments by people. They talk about Gold giving a warmer sound, rhodium being brighter. I have no experience with this, so I don't know just how noticeable it would be, but I have RTi speakers which are known for being bright. I wondering if gold would be the better choice for my system. Seems to me what will make the most difference is what cable you pair it with.

The base metal is more important. Copper sounds better than brass, IMO. Gold plated copper is warmer than Rhodium plated copper.

In general, I find rhodium plating tends to present a notably smooth sounding characteristic with a somewhat neutral tonality (if not a bit cool/cold sounding), and a more front row sounding presentation as compared to gold plating which is more laid back, full bodied, and more middle row, while silver plating tends to sound leaner

(silver and rhodium plated) The overall sound is detailed but I find highs slightly bright on less pristine recordings,the sound lacking bloom and would like more body and warmth.

I have found Furutech gold plated plugs too much warm

My choice between Oyaide and Furutech was made easier by Doug offering me the solder. I have to buy the inlet from him now, it's the ethical thing to do! What I would really like to do is IF this project has good results, I could remove the furutech and put it in something else and get the Oyaide and see if I can hear the difference. My TV already has an IEC inlet, but my power conditioner doesn't.

Hermitism

I'm about to go to sleep, but I have a couple questions which will hopefully give me something to read in the morning. What are the best screws to use with these inlets? Sheet metal screws or machine screws with nuts? I'm assuming sheet metal screws since this is in fact sheet metal. I just wondered if, as thin as the metal is, if a sheet metal screw will pull out with these tight fitting after market PC's. I've noticed "tight fitting" listed as a benefit on a lot of cable websites. I don't want to pull the cord out and end up yanking the outlet out.

I understand the logic of an upgraded power cable providing better current/less resistance due to it having a beefier gauge or better materials. I also see the logic in a PC filtering the AC in the last few feet before it enters the unit causing a lower noise floor. So I guess it's sort of acting like a power conditioner. Does the length of the cable affect the results? I mean does a PC need a certain length to be affective? Does a <1 meter cord clean up the power line as well as a 2 meter cord? What I can't get my head around is how a power cable, inlet, or the plating used, can affect tonal qualities of the music. I'm not denying that it happens, but I don't understand how. I understand it cleaning which results in more detail, but how does the power going into a unit affect the tone of the music. How can it make it warmer sounding, brighter sounding?

F1nut

Machine screws with nuts and lock washers.

Does a <1 meter cord clean up the power line as well as a 2 meter cord?

Yes.

How can it make it warmer sounding, brighter sounding?

Metals have different crystal structures, different densities, etc., which means they have different sound signatures.

Hermitism

nbrowser wrote: »

machine screws with nuts

F1nut wrote: »

Machine screws with nuts and lock washers.

Thank you both! I almost didn't ask because I thought it was a dumb question. I'm sure glad I did. I almost screwed up! See what I did there??

F1nut wrote: »

Metals have different crystal structures, different densities, etc., which means they have different sound signatures.

Okay, I understand. So if you replace the cord on a TV, not only will it clean up the AC line, but if it can affect sound, then it should also affect the color, correct? Are plasmas, LCD, and LED all affected the same? Plasmas draw more power, don't they? Would they benefit the most by the beefier cable, but all three benefit from the cleaner power?

And if you are using a power conditioner, are the benefits less noticeable after upgrading the power cord? I saw good results from upgrading the cord on my Blu-ray player, but I didn't have a power conditioner at the time, and I also applied some Dynamat at the same time which could also explain part of the benefits I noticed.

I also remember you mentioning in a thread that some people have reported a negative affect in audio using Monster power conditioners. Is it because of the way it filters or a restriction of current? When I started applying Dynamat to my components, I noticed that when I flicked the lid to the Monster, it rang like a bell before applying the Dynamat. Could that have been the reason for the complaints. I actually haven't noticed any problems with sound from using it compared to plugging the components straight into the wall outlet. But again, I'm using an all-in-one AVR for my music playing, and I've never accused myself of having audiophile-grade ears.

Speaking of audiophile grade ears, everyone is always speaking of the "sound stage" which I understand. Before getting help with proper speaker placement, I didn't really understand because that's not how I listened to music. I understand width of the sound stage, but I'm having problems hearing depth of the sound stage which I've heard people mention before. On 85% of the music I listen to the vocals are front and center, it sounds like the vocals are coming from the center channel when playing in two-channel. And sometimes the vocals sound like they are closer, but I think that is more due to the vocals having a higher volume level than the instruments. But all the instruments sound to me like they are lined up in a straight line from left to right. For example, the drums don't sound like they are coming from behind everything else. Is that what you mean by depth of the sound stage? Is that just a limitation of my speakers, or because I'm using an AVR, or something else?

Hermitism

Hermitism wrote: »

Skip, I saw where you recently bought two Pangea AC-14SE cables. Do you notice a significant difference between those and the non-SE model?

DSkip wrote: »

Yes on my preamp. No on the power amps, even compared to generic PC's. The SE added holographic imaging where the non-SE was very flat and two dimensional. Rather lifeless actually when compared to the SE. Soundstage was also more recessed with the standard version.

You know, they are making a AC-14XL now. Supposed to be an improvement over the Signature Edition. I don't think they make a XL edition for the AC-9. It would be out of my price range anyway.

Reference power cord for source components
Improves transient response, very low noise floor
Designed for wide-band delivery of power to line-level AV components
Specifically designed to enhance the performance of preamps, CD players, Blu-ray players, DACs, and other line-level components
Highest purity PCOCC (99.9999% pure) copper conductors
Increased shielding (compared to AC-14SE)
Improved cable geometry to reduce the background noise (compared to AC-14SE)
Solid copper blades for the AC connections
Screw-in/screw-out solid copper ground pin
High grade IEC connector
AC and IEC plugs now are clad in a beautiful gunmetal grey metal casing
Cable jacket has a stealth-looking black and silverfish-grey finish
Lightweight design doesn't impede the effectiveness of isolation devices

voltz

Audio Advise has a trade in/trade up deal with the XL's, if you have Ac-14 or AC-14SE and want to upgrade to the XL's they will charge you for the XL & ship it to you, then you send them your other AC-14 and they will credit you full value that you paid for the original.

Hermitism

voltz wrote: »

Audio Advise has a trade in/trade up deal with the XL's, if you have Ac-14 or AC-14SE and want to upgrade to the XL's they will charge you for the XL & ship it to you, then you send them your other AC-14 and they will credit you full value that you paid for the original.

That's actually an impressive deal. Do they have to have your original purchase on file in their records? Probably so. I bought mine AC-14 used.

voltz

yes, just saw the part that says to 1st call for a RA# for your old cable before sending in your old cable.

so they would probably go by what was on file.

F1nut

I also remember you mentioning in a thread that some people have reported a negative affect in audio using Monster power conditioners. Is it because of the way it filters or a restriction of current?

I don't know the exact reason, just that they muddy things up.

For example, the drums don't sound like they are coming from behind everything else. Is that what you mean by depth of the sound stage? Is that just a limitation of my speakers, or because I'm using an AVR, or something else?

Yes. I'd go with the AVR.

Hermitism

I'm one step closer. I snagged a used Pangea (1 meter) AC-9SE yesterday for a "buy it now" price of $75 plus shipping. I've been searching daily and caught the listing not long after it was posted. I've never used the regular AC-9, so I have no way of knowing if the extra money was warranted. Has anyone here tried both? I know Skip mentioned that he likes the SE version of the AC-14. Someone here listed two AC-14SE's for sale about a month ago, but some **** DSkip had to buy both of them. :evil:

I know the AC-9/AC-9SE's are supposed to be stiff and look like a garden hose, but I've got seven inches between the back of my AVR and the wall to make a turn. I can pull out the AVR a little further if I need more room.

If it doesn't work out, it looks like it would make a nice weapon, if swung. I wouldn't want to get hit with it.

Hermitism

Will I need to use Heat Shrink Tubing over the solder joints on the inlet? Just want to make sure I have everything I need when the parts arrive.

Hermitism

DSkip wrote: »

Make sure that socket is installed and supported well if you're using the AC9. Heaviest damn power cord I've held. The 14/14SE and 9/9SE have similar geometries, so the 9SE should sound much better than the regular 9 if my experience was any indication. $75 is a pretty good price.

It was $75 + $16.08 shipping. The guy told me it was pretty stiff. I should have enough room behind my AVR to make a turn. The PC is out for delivery today, so I'm anxious to check it out. I'll stick it in my computer or something and wiggle it around near each end to make sure there isn't a short in it.

helipilotdoug

Your cable, inlet IEC and some Cardas solder will ship out to you tomorrow. I'll also throw in some heat shrink tubing. You more than likely don't need to cover those solder joints, but it won't hurt anything.

Hermitism

Can I have an extra power cord???






I'M KIDDING! You've gone above and beyond the call of duty on this project! Much appreciated!

Hermitism

Pangea AC-9SE

Thick as a garden hose? Nah, thicker.

Hermitism

FYI, for anyone that wants to buy one of these, but doesn't know if they have enough room, I'd recommend 6 to 7 inches to make a 90 degree bend without putting any stress on the cable or inlet/outlet.

Hermitism

My new power cord allows me to compute things at a faster rate of speed, which in turn allows me to complete my 8 hours work day in 6 hours. High-five!

Attachment not found.

pitdogg2

Hermitism wrote: »

Pangea AC-9SE

Thick as a garden hose? Nah, thicker.

Na you just have a puny hose:redfaced:

pitdogg2

DSkip wrote: »

I don't want to know what you'd call my hose then.

Lacking

Hermitism

Finished.

As soon as I started hooking all the cables back up, the thunder started. All my electronics get disconnected at the first hint of lightning. Storms passed through, but then it was TV time, so I haven't got to listen to music yet. Watched 24. Anyone notice that Russian guy has a "female part" on his face? I'm just sayin'.

Hermitism

I took a bunch of pics and plan on creating a new thread with step by step pictures and links for anyone that has never done it before. I'm going to really dumb it down for people like me with little-to-no experience with soldering and cutting sheet metal. Cutting the sheet metal was a cake walk. Much easier than I thought. I remembered my Dad has some metal shelving in his garage that had a sheet metal backing. So I cut out a piece to practice on. Nothing a well placed bottle of antifreeze won't hide. No one will be the wiser...including my dad.

F1nut

Speedskater wrote: »

First: It's Gold plating on base Copper that has problems. There is an intermediate plating step. If they don't do it correctly, they will have the same problem that computer memory chip connectors had a decade ago.

Second: Gold is a great contact for low voltage, low current circuits. But it's not very good for high voltage, high current circuits. Also if you ever plug in Gold plated contacts while the power amp is turned on, you will blow the Gold plating off the connector.

I'd like to open this discussion again as I'm in the market once again for some IEC inlets.

So, if gold is not a good choice and rhodium sucks, then what is a good choice?

I have to say that I replaced some nickel plated outlets with gold plated directly over copper and heard a positive improvement, so I'm leaning towards gold plated IEC inlets at this time.

Hermitism

I can remember googling "gold vs. rhodium" and getting dozens of hits. It's been debated a lot on other sites. What I took from everything that I read, besides the sound signatures being different, was that gold is more conductive but rhodium is more durable. I read that rhodium is an excellent choice for a connection that will be plugged and unplugged a lot because it will stand the test of time. My concern was that a lot of people mentioned that it can bring a brighter sound to the system and I'm already running bright speakers. Plus my connection isn't one that will be unplugged and plugged back in often. I have no idea if I would have heard any difference between the two metals for my application, but I've tried to do a lot to bring a warmer sound to my system because I also use it to play music. I'm also sure that the inlets that I was comparing are in a much lower price range than the ones that you would be looking at using. I remember there being a broad price range as with all stuff in this arena.

tonyb

xcapri79 wrote: »

From a technical perspective, I can't see why there would be any difference in sound tonal/signature quality at all. The power cord doesn't carry any signal.
.

Nor does a power supply, but I think we can all agree the better the power supply....the better the sound.

Toolfan66

xcapri79 wrote: »

Hermitism, well done on your receptacle retrofit!

From a technical perspective, I can't see why there would be any difference in sound tonal/signature quality at all. The power cord doesn't carry any signal.

I've seen where there are claims of reduced high frequency noise beyond that of a reasonably priced properly constructed cable, however I remain somewhat skeptical as to the reality of those claims of the high priced exotic power cords. Some of the theories out there are quite amusing though.

Cords of sufficient gauge and shielding should be sufficient to do the intended job which is providing the AC power to the equipment.

I've used many types of power cords over the years and prefer 14 AWG shielded power cords which are not particularly expensive. This includes Pangea power cables that were discount priced. I bought them for the length that I needed and looks after meeting my basic criteria of gauge and shielding. Cables of the right length definitely reduce the wiring clutter.

One issue that I've encountered is fit at the receptacle. Some power cords don't fit all that well and require some tape wrapped around the end to ensure a snug fit.

I know you have always had this quest to save the world from expensive cables, but let me ask you this.....

Why would any of us continue to spend money on good cables if we didn't see or hear a benefit from them? I only ask because I love money and I hate spending money on something that dosent give me somet back, and if it didn't they would have been gone long ago...

F1nut

Just like you, trolling YET another thread.

Since you have zero experience with IEC's make no further comments.

F1nut

I've asked for input on IEC's, nothing else. So, those with actual experience, please speak up.

F1nut

You've never tried after market IEC's, therefore you have nothing worthwhile to add.

The ice is very thin...in fact, it's starting to crack.

Toolfan66

xcapri79 wrote: »

It is because we are imperfect human beings. The things we do to attempt to suit ourselves or our curiosity, doesn't always need or have to make sense. Our bad habits, our pursuits, and our hobbies can fall into that category. Expectation bias can influence our senses and our mind to tell us what we are doing is "right" regardless of the objective truth. What we perceive is our own reality, but this may or may not be good or right for others.

Contradicting yourself?? I venture to guess "yes you are"..

I purchased an XPA2 and had high expectations, thought what I was doing was the right choice, sooooo why was it gone in a week?

Also how come I could care less that cables don't work for you but yet you seem to care that they work for others?? Let me venture to guess again "attention" the attention I'm done giving you...

Cables out!!

Toolfan66

Sorry Jesse, I'm out...

Hope you had a great birthday...