Help on what to look for
EndersShadow
Posts: 17,590
Possibly going to snag a set of SDA CRS+'s this weekend. Need to know what to look for while checking them out. Seller says they are in working order but does NOT have the SDA cable.
They look "decent" but probably need a cabinet refinish (if its the kind you can remove and re-do). I am mainly wondering if the SDA cable is one where you can just use a spare piece of speaker wire lying around, or if you need the ACTUAL sda cable.
And I know that the "price" is subjective.... but given the pics whats the most you would pay for these?
Here is some info from the seller:
Pics below.
Any thoughts appreciated....
They look "decent" but probably need a cabinet refinish (if its the kind you can remove and re-do). I am mainly wondering if the SDA cable is one where you can just use a spare piece of speaker wire lying around, or if you need the ACTUAL sda cable.
And I know that the "price" is subjective.... but given the pics whats the most you would pay for these?
Here is some info from the seller:
Interconnect cable not included, can easily be made from heavy gauge speaker wire, or you can get it new from Polk Audio for about $40. Speakers sound great as they are, but connecting is a whole new level. Each cabinet has a nick on the rear corner, as shown. Other marks seem to be splatters of white paint, not hard to clean up. Grilles are both good, no pulls or tears. All drivers are perfect, sound great.
Pics below.
Any thoughts appreciated....
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
Post edited by EndersShadow on
Comments
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Be wary of all that glorious rust...The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Early blade/blade CRS+ that have been in a damp environment. Possible corrosion issues inside.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
That's what caught my eye. Everything metal on those is rusted. How long have the been in a humid climate or basement? I would want to pull a driver after doing push test for cabinet integrity and also pull the binding post cup and see what the crossover looks like inside. Screws are cheap and easy to replace, but crossovers not so much. I'd offer $60 and go no higher than $75 personally.
If you really want a pair, you should just buy mine and disconnect the dimensional tweeters. Cabinets are perfect oak compared to this pair. You can pick them up when you come down for Thanksgiving, and that gives you 6 months to convince the wife you need some SDA's.2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
Travis, no rush but shoot me some pics if you dont mind....
I may "see" what kinda movement this guy has on them price wise.... I dont "have" to have this pair, and I dont know if my room is even suitable for them, but when you see a "somewhat" decent price you sometimes gotta get more info (didn't have the pics in his sale ad, got them via email this evening)"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
check frozen woofers
take a speaker cable to check dimensional woofer
b/b needs both ends to check
if screws are the only ones rusted, they can be cheaply replaced.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
If they were stored in a Basement or Garage, that would account for the rusted screws, which shouldn't be a big deal. Beware of that lovely musty smell, which would be more difficult to get rid of. The back edge where the raw particle board shows, doesn't appear to be swollen from the photos. That would require physical inspection. A length of 12 gauge speaker wire, would do for a temporary interconnect cable, just be sure the polarity is the same at both ends. They appear to be 86' CRS+s which are 3rd generation. Same crossover as the 2As, and will be more expensive to upgrade vs the 87' or 89' 4th generation. They can be TL'd, and will sound every bit as good as the later versions, but it's more expensive to get there.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Dan, sorry I didn't reply to your text/email last night...was already in bed hehe.
Anyway, going to echo most of the others thoughts. The first thing that jumped out at me was the very rusty condition of the screws. My RTAs had some corrosion on the screws when I got them which was to be expected since they spent their whole life in a basement...but it was nowhere near as in your face orange rusty as those are.
But like the others said, could be no big deal as screws are cheap (a box of 100 8-32 screws and a 50 pack of hurricane nuts costs less than $20 on Amazon shipped hehe) but the crossovers could be a bit spendy...even going with Solen/Dayton.
The nice thing about those black cabinets is that you can give them a rub down with some double 0 steel wool, wipe them down with lacquer thinner and then shoot a couple of coats of black lacquer on them and make them look new again. (The corner chunks will still be there but camouflaged).
I also agree on pricing...see if you can get him lower. $150 isn't bad really (most pairs I have seen around here go from the $200-$300 range) but you also have a pretty decent round trip drive to get them."Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
Dan, sorry I didn't reply to your text/email last night...was already in bed hehe.
Anyway, going to echo most of the others thoughts. The first thing that jumped out at me was the very rusty condition of the screws. My RTAs had some corrosion on the screws when I got them which was to be expected since they spent their whole life in a basement...but it was nowhere near as in your face orange rusty as those are.
But like the others said, could be no big deal as screws are cheap (a box of 100 8-32 screws and a 50 pack of hurricane nuts costs less than $20 on Amazon shipped hehe) but the crossovers could be a bit spendy...even going with Solen/Dayton.
The nice thing about those black cabinets is that you can give them a rub down with some double 0 steel wool, wipe them down with lacquer thinner and then shoot a couple of coats of black lacquer on them and make them look new again. (The corner chunks will still be there but camouflaged).
I also agree on pricing...see if you can get him lower. $150 isn't bad really (most pairs I have seen around here go from the $200-$300 range) but you also have a pretty decent round trip drive to get them.
No worries man... it was late, wasn't sure if you were up... was all hyped up on mountain dew so couldnt sleep lol....
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I greatly appreciate the suggestions...
I am at a crossroads here because these are NOT local so its not a simple drive and if I don't want em after inspection go my separate way w/ no harm and no real time lost... But they are at a decent price (150).
However if they are going to cost a bit more to mod than say a later revision of CRS+'s it may not be worth the trouble since I dont have to have them now.
I am probably going to contact the seller to see if I can get more info on how they were stored, where he got them from, and if I can get a pic of the crossovers. If it appears it is JUST the nails that are rusty here is my question.
Would you drive 4 hours and pay 150 for em, or would you try to negotiate more?
I know where a set of CRS's in *MINT* condition are at a decent price, obviously I could just disconnect the dimensional tweeter on those and be good, and if I ever rebuilt them could just try to get a new cabinet made (like the actual CRS+) to mod them into a set of CRS's...
Thoughts/suggestions/opinions appreciated.
If you haven't figured me out by now, I tend to "talk" through things either in my head, out loud, or on the forum. So I appreciate your guys suggestions and "nudging" when it comes to this kinda stuff.
The CRS+'s and 1C's are on my list of SDA's I would like to try and the CRS+'s I like due to their small footprint.....
Also before I get tooo ahead of myself... Is my space even setup for SDA's? I have a long enough wall for em to be 3' out on both sides but not sure if I have the depth required for em...
I totally blank the room dimensions but think I probably have like 8 to 10 feet back from the wall to the half wall...
Pics below:
Here is a kinda panoramic view of my room
Here is kinda what the entire space looks like
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
One of the first things I ever noticed about Polk speakers here in the midwest is how easily the screws rusted in our humid summers. I'd definitely give them the best going over I'd be able to give them at the sellers house. Dan get some crimp on spades from auto or farm store near you and make a cable out of some wire good to go.....
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One of the first things I ever noticed about Polk speakers here in the midwest is how easily the screws rusted in our humid summers. I'd definitely give them the best going over I'd be able to give them at the sellers house. Dan get some crimp on spades from auto or farm store near you and make a cable out of some wire good to go.....
Would you think its worth 4 hours one way to give them a going over or would you just wait for a better pair to come along? If he was within say an hour or so it'd be no biggie, but at 4 hours one way it ends up being about a tank of gas or more down and back which is about 75 bucks lol....."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
The 2nd generation CRSs, even with the dimensional tweeter disconnected, will not equal the performance of the later 3rd and 4th generation CRS+s. The original CRS lacks the "full compliment sub-bass drive circuit". The SDA-1A and SDA-2 which have similar crossovers, had supplemental sub-bass drivers to augment the low bass.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »The 2nd generation CRSs, even with the dimensional tweeter disconnected, will not equal the performance of the later 3rd and 4th generation CRS+s. The original CRS lacks the "full compliment sub-bass drive circuit". The SDA-1A and SDA-2 which have similar crossovers, had supplemental sub-bass drivers to augment the low bass.
Good to know. If however one was planning to possibly rebuild the x-overs using gimpods boards and new caps/resistors.... could one turn the CRS's into the better CRS+'s?
Obviously the cabinet front differences would need to be addressed, but otherwise is that possible?"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Theoretically, yes. Some of the original inductors could possibly be reused, plus some new inductors, and you'd need to purchase two MW6511s for the dimensional side. The MW6503s can be re-used for the stereo side, and you'd have a spare set.EndersShadow wrote: »Good to know. If however one was planning to possibly rebuild the x-overs using gimpods boards and new caps/resistors.... could one turn the CRS's into the better CRS+'s?
Obviously the cabinet front differences would need to be addressed, but otherwise is that possible?
You're still talking about an expensive crossover rebuild.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
My wife recently received orders to Germany and we're moving in 2 weeks, so I've been going through parts and equipment to thin out. If this'll help w/your decision to check them out...I have a b/b IC and an extra set of compatible Jansen mid freq inductors I purchased from Trey. Also, might have Mills resistors that work if you think you might upgrade them down the road. I was going to karma them off but will send them to you for free if you decide to go through with this. If you end up not using them all I ask is you rekarma them.
I have a set of upgraded CRS+'s and am amazed at what they do. Compared to my 1Cs and 1.2tl's, they hold their own. Hope this helps.
John➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬ -
westmassguy wrote: »Theoretically, yes. Some of the original inductors could possibly be reused, plus some new inductors, and you'd need to purchase two MW6511s for the dimensional side. The MW6503s can be re-used for the stereo side, and you'd have a spare set.
You're still talking about an expensive crossover rebuild.
This is what I did but replaced all inductors. Had some 6511's I've collected. You'd also need the SW105 in place of SW100 if my memory is correct. I'm sitting in a Honda service dept typing on my tablet but can check when I get home if you want. I haven't regretted the cost.➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬ -
EndersShadow wrote: »Would you think its worth 4 hours one way to give them a going over or would you just wait for a better pair to come along? If he was within say an hour or so it'd be no biggie, but at 4 hours one way it ends up being about a tank of gas or more down and back which is about 75 bucks lol.....
I'd pass. In fact, I'd pass even if they are $50 or less or free if I have to drive 8 hours round trip.
May be for 1.2's but no way in hell for these. I feel tired just thinking about it.
You already have decent speakers and you are looking at a project that costs a lot of money to make them as good as what you have.
Plus I like RTA-11T better than SDA-CRS+,2b and 2's unlike most others here (given that none of them were updated).
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Thanks guys. For now think I will just pass. I agree, just a bit to much of a risk for not a whole lot of reward.
Anyone close to Nashville that wants to snag em, let me know and I will get you the info."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Those are (imho) rough to very rough, due to the rust and the (most likely) cab damage du.e to the moisture they were exposed too. Under a hundo only or pass as for 2/3 u can get a nice pair. Id pass unless you can get for say 75.00 or less.theyay be hard to find but beaters arent worth more due to rairity. Beaters are just beaters and shoyld be cheep.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
Also as far as the drive..... not without an agreement as to the priceMain Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
EndersShadow wrote: »Thanks guys. For now think I will just pass. I agree, just a bit to much of a risk for not a whole lot of reward.
good choice 4hr drive to get them IMO is not justified, Now if you're talking 1.2, 2.3 I'd be all for it but when you have as many irons in the fire as yourself.....you made the right choice. -
Yup. Happy w/ what I've got, but always on the lookout for a "deal" if I can swing it.
For now will get back to planning my other projects.
"Really" wish I could find a knockout price on a pair of Sunfire CRM-2's lol... but that aint NEVA gonna happen...."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
EndersShadow wrote: »"Really" wish I could find a knockout price on a pair of Sunfire CRM-2's lol... but that aint NEVA gonna happen....
Here is a used pair for $895+shipping. www.ebay.com/itm/Sunfire-CRM-2-Main-Stereo-Speakers-/191165091264
Or B-stock for $1280. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunfire-CRM2-Ribbons-B-Stock-1-Pair-huge-savings-AUTHORIZED-DEALER-/221243455882?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item338323398a
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Here is a used pair for $895+shipping. www.ebay.com/itm/Sunfire-CRM-2-Main-Stereo-Speakers-/191165091264
Or B-stock for $1280. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunfire-CRM2-Ribbons-B-Stock-1-Pair-huge-savings-AUTHORIZED-DEALER-/221243455882?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item338323398a
Hehehe.. I have seen those.... But I am a cheepy.... So not a knockout deal...."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
