Cleaning c/o on RTA12

OldSchoolPolk

Hello all.

Been enjoying the RTA12s I found at the dump and am saving for MWs that you guys suggested.

Wanted to ask about cleaning the cross over as the top hat is too ugly to use and the tweeter/ co assembly looks too cool to cover. I brushed all parts gently and used canned air sparingly. There's still grime on all parts and I was wondering if there was an accepted spray or chemical to use.

i searched and found nothing so if anyone has ideas I'd love to hear them.

Thanks in advance.

Nightfall

A little off topic but you're changing the high frequency dispersion pattern by not using the top hat. The top hat has another refraction plate in it.

OldSchoolPolk

Well really, its more accurate to say the top hat isn't ugly b/c it's not actually there. I found them at the dump w/o the top hat so there is nothing to put back on.

Also, I've been told by members here that I have the RTA12 A version so I don't know if they have the refraction plate you are referring to.

I see you have the B version; any insight as to what I might expect diff. with my A versions I would love to hear it. From what I've read the As have the vertically mounted Peerless tweeters. My c/o looks diff than the pics I've seen of Bs and Cs.

Thanks again.

Nightfall

The outside midwoofers are crossed over at different frequencies than the inside MW's. Better imaging and soundstage.

The original RTA12's (no letter) have the tweeter mounted vertically, not the A's.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?96857-RTA12-differences&p=1277578&viewfull=1#post1277578

westmassguy

OldSchoolPolk wrote: »

Hello all.

Been enjoying the RTA12s I found at the dump and am saving for MWs that you guys suggested.

Wanted to ask about cleaning the cross over as the top hat is too ugly to use and the tweeter/ co assembly looks too cool to cover. I brushed all parts gently and used canned air sparingly. There's still grime on all parts and I was wondering if there was an accepted spray or chemical to use.

i searched and found nothing so if anyone has ideas I'd love to hear them.

Thanks in advance.

There are spray on solvents made specifically for circuit boards. You'd have to remove the crossovers, and stand them on end so the solvent flows down and drips off. Most are effective for removing dirt, and cigarette smoke etc., and won't harm the components. The remaining parts, spool inductors, even the tweeter face plate can be cleaned with Fantastic or 409.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/11oz-Max-Profesional-Contact-Cleaner-DP-002-015-/221399009982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338c68cabe

zane77

The Max contact cleaner must work because they can't sell it in California.

OldSchoolPolk

westmassguy - Thanks for the info and link to an appropriate product and the tip on removing the c/o. its been great reading your posts.

I checked your ebay page and saw that the 194/198s are not a replacement for the Peerless. I have to off set balance by about 15% which I assume is a tweeter or c/o issue to be addressed at some point. What do you recommend for the tweeter when the time comes and should both tweeter and c/o be done at the same time as your ebay page states c/o modifications have to be performed when the HF-1000 tweeters are replaced.

As I said in my original post, these things sound surprisingly good considering two of the MWs are seized and they need a 15% balance offset to center the image. The tweeters have slight wrinkles or creases which I would assume would affect the sound.

I literally pulled them out of a pile of electronic gear at the dump and can't believe my luck. The cabs aren't great but no real issues other than slight delamitation in a few areas.

Thanks again to everyone.

westmassguy

OldSchool, the only new replacements for the Peerless, are the clones sold by Midwest Speaker. Several CP members have used them, and say they sound identical to the originals. I heard one member say, when they called Polk Customer Service, that they recommended the Midwest Clones.
The wrinkles are very common, and in most cases don't severely affect the sound. The seized drivers are definitely a problem though. You're only hearing half the bass and a portion to the mids.

OldSchoolPolk

Thanks again!

The S# of the tweeters are:

75141181
&
55141181

If that tells you anything I'd love some insight.

Just went to MW and saw the replacements.

Thanks again..

westmassguy

OldSchoolPolk wrote: »

Thanks again!

The S# of the tweeters are:

75141181
&
55141181

If that tells you anything I'd love some insight.

Just went to MW and saw the replacements.

Thanks again..

There are several MW6501s on eBay right now:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201082506644?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201082512593?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191155766854?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
$50.00 for two is a damn good price.
The 75 I believe is a Denmark, while the 55 is a US made. It could the opposite though.

Faustin

OldSchoolPolk wrote: »

Thanks again!

The S# of the tweeters are:

75141181
&
55141181

If that tells you anything I'd love some insight.

Just went to MW and saw the replacements.

Thanks again..

The 7514 were manufactured in Denmark and the 5514 were manufactured in the US.