Genesis 3+ speakers...
Mystery
Posts: 2,546
Finally, re-foam done on the Genesis 3+'s.
The green foams are unobtanium so used standard ones. :sad:
Mids were refurbished by local sound shop few years ago and work fine.
Both passive radiators and one woofer needed new foams.
Another woofer passed finger poke test so I left it alone.
There was no sound from one tweeter.
Tweeter checked out okay by the multimeter so had to take crossover out.
Very decent crossover. You have to take the tweeter/mid panel off, then take the padding out and finally the board on the back.
I see one big inductor was hanging but that was not the issue.
Why does a 3-way speaker need 4 inductors?
I grabbed alligator clips and went on checking tweeter connections.
One 8uF capacitor was the issue. It was not sending any signal to the tweeter even though it had continuity.
Anyone know what that green/blue component is on the bottom? May be 1ohm resistor in the schematics but it's huge.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/genesis/gen3.htm
Replaced the tweeter capacitor, secured the inductor with hot glue and put back everything.
As soon as I lifted the speaker, I heard clunk, clunk.
WTH??? Took the crossover out to see another smaller inductor was unglued on one side. This time, I glued all the inductors and checked if anything is loose.
Put back together and sounded great but the speaker with new tweeter capacitor sounds much brighter.
Obviously, the other speaker had old worn out capacitor so I replaced that cap on the other one as well.
They definitely need new caps on all circuits but I don't have them at the moment.
Sound: Great sound, very relaxed sound. Highs are amazing and bass has power and thunderous. Mids are slightly less (not veiled but at lower volume) than I'm used to but they open up with more power.
They are very inefficient. I think they need 3 times or more power than the Boston A400's.
My Rotel RB-990BX at around 11 O'clock on the pre was shaking everything though so have plenty power here.
I think these are made for long term listening. Very smooth mid (but at lower level than highs/lows), lots of details on the highs and lots of strong bass. Bass is not too tight but has a lot of power kinda like a subwoofer.
I'm sure mid will open up even more with new capacitor so I'll plan that later but even as is, very enjoyable speakers.
Very open and very easy on the ears, not "in your face".
If you get a chance to get these, get them.
Anyone know local place to buy capacitors?
The green foams are unobtanium so used standard ones. :sad:
Mids were refurbished by local sound shop few years ago and work fine.
Both passive radiators and one woofer needed new foams.
Another woofer passed finger poke test so I left it alone.
There was no sound from one tweeter.
Tweeter checked out okay by the multimeter so had to take crossover out.
Very decent crossover. You have to take the tweeter/mid panel off, then take the padding out and finally the board on the back.
I see one big inductor was hanging but that was not the issue.
Why does a 3-way speaker need 4 inductors?
I grabbed alligator clips and went on checking tweeter connections.
One 8uF capacitor was the issue. It was not sending any signal to the tweeter even though it had continuity.
Anyone know what that green/blue component is on the bottom? May be 1ohm resistor in the schematics but it's huge.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/genesis/gen3.htm
Replaced the tweeter capacitor, secured the inductor with hot glue and put back everything.
As soon as I lifted the speaker, I heard clunk, clunk.
WTH??? Took the crossover out to see another smaller inductor was unglued on one side. This time, I glued all the inductors and checked if anything is loose.
Put back together and sounded great but the speaker with new tweeter capacitor sounds much brighter.
Obviously, the other speaker had old worn out capacitor so I replaced that cap on the other one as well.
They definitely need new caps on all circuits but I don't have them at the moment.
Sound: Great sound, very relaxed sound. Highs are amazing and bass has power and thunderous. Mids are slightly less (not veiled but at lower volume) than I'm used to but they open up with more power.
They are very inefficient. I think they need 3 times or more power than the Boston A400's.
My Rotel RB-990BX at around 11 O'clock on the pre was shaking everything though so have plenty power here.
I think these are made for long term listening. Very smooth mid (but at lower level than highs/lows), lots of details on the highs and lots of strong bass. Bass is not too tight but has a lot of power kinda like a subwoofer.
I'm sure mid will open up even more with new capacitor so I'll plan that later but even as is, very enjoyable speakers.
Very open and very easy on the ears, not "in your face".
If you get a chance to get these, get them.
Anyone know local place to buy capacitors?
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
Post edited by Mystery on
Comments
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The green component is most likely a vitreous, or glass coated load resistor.
A 2nd order band-pass for the midrange would have two coilsHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »The green component is most likely a vitreous, or glass coated load resistor.
Definitely that 1 Ohm 25W power resistor shown on the schematic.'65 427 Shelby Cobra
'72 Triumph TR-6
__________________
'88 Polk SDA SRS 1.2, with upgraded XO caps and Erse SDA inductors
'86 Polk SDA CRS+
'84 Polk Monitor 10A (Peerless tweeters)
'05 HSU VTF-3 Sub (Original OEM)
'20 HSU VTF-3 Sub (three more, 100% cloned)
'93 Carver TFM-35
'88 Carver M-1.0t
'88 Adcom GFT-555
'88 Adcom GFP-555
'88 Adcom GFA-555 (upgraded/restored)
'88 Adcom GFA-555 (a second one upgraded/restored)
'05 Onkyo DV-555 media
'89 Fosgate 360 Digital Space Matrix
'89 Fosgate 360 Digital Space Matrix, internal surround amp bridged to drive only a center channel
'91 Kenwood Basic M1D Amp
'89 Pioneer Laser Disc media
'89 Sony SuperBeta HiFi media
One PGA2310 based custom built remote volume control
Four Polk T-15's
Four Polk TSi-200's
Four Polk TSi-100's
Two Polk CS-10's -
nice set...man those cabs look deep...Marantz 1152 DC- Denon DP 1200, Soundsmith Carmen MKII- ADS L980 - Blue Jeans IC's
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westmassguy wrote: »A 2nd order band-pass for the midrange would have two coils
Hmm... over my head so I'll leave them along and replace the caps.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
I remember now.
I do have a big package of new caps and resistors from Madisound that I ordered for bunch of vintage Polks that I already sold.
I may be able to get them pretty close to spec within 5% for the woofer in Genesis by combining few different capacitors.
Tweeter cap is already replaced.
I have matching caps for mids but lows uses 80uF that I don't have.
If I combine 3 caps, I can come up with 84uF instead of 80uF.
That's still will be within 5% tolerance, don't you think?
I'll see how it works out since I already have them.
Hmmm... will update.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Capacitors replaced.
I didn't replace resistors as from my past experiences, resistor values were pretty much the same and also no point in replacing sand cast with sand cast.
Highs/mids have mylar caps and lows have a combination of NP and mylar.
Mids are better and have more punch than before but vocals became slightly edgy/rough.
Should get better after burning in but it does add realistic tones to instruments and may be that's how it should sound.
Guitar sounds like someone is plucking the strings in the room itself.
Also, haven't played with the attenuators in the back for mid range and tweeter level adjustments for the right balance.
I have both at normal levels.
Lows improved dramatically. More power and punch than before.
Genesis 3+ cabinets are partitioned into two chambers inside.
Top chamber is for tweeter/mid and crossover board.
It's completely sealed from the bottom bigger chamber except a small hole for the woofer wires from crossover.
So the bottom chamber is only for the woofer and PR.
That explains why it sounds like a subwoofer.
Bass tends to get overpowering and slightly boomy if they are very close to the wall and if they are close to each other.
I had them 2.5 feet apart and bass was not defined. Felt like a subwoofer is in the room at higher levels than the speakers.
Around 6 feet or more apart and they sound great.
I even got SDA kinda effect in few songs. Instruments sounded way farther/wider from the speakers (of course not like SDA in the side or overhead) almost to think I had the farthest speakers on in the wall turned on.
Not sure if they'll replace Boston A400's. Will do some critical listening when I have time from this busy work schedule.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Nice
I redid a pair of 2+ many years ago ..daughter has them in her system* The Trouble with Doing Nothing , is that you Can't Tell if you are finished *
