Help on 3.1 TL

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Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,939
    edited April 2014
    How about cutting the OP some slack here I'm sure someone out there has switched out their factory inductors for new, How about coughing up a pair?.......At least he won't have that cost to worry about, I know it can be daunting to see hundreds go out the door for new caps but it is worth the cost for those. The new boards Gimpod came up with are the shiznit and well make it much easier, that is still 100.00 for those on top of the cap's and resistors.
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  • amb426amb1
    amb426amb1 Posts: 148
    edited April 2014
    ^^^^^^^^, Yes!
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  • shary_exe
    shary_exe Posts: 23
    edited April 2014
    IMG-20140420-WA0004.jpg
    IMG-20140420-WA0005.jpg


    Thanks for all the input, hmmm I think its better to have a step by step approach. The biggest problem is that I've never come across these speakers with anyone in this region yet, and that makes it difficult for me to make up my mind to what these speakers will really sound like. Am attaching the pics for the newly wound inductor and resistor that my friend has done for me.
    Let me know your thoughts about the same.
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited April 2014
    Don't know about the quality of either of those components. The inductors look to be wound haphazardly with thick gauge wire. Ideally you would match the DCR as well as the inductance used in the originals. Modern inductors such as the jantzen sound better due to the higher purity copper wire used, as well as the way they're machine wound.

    Can't comment on the resistors other than to say they look like the originals, which were probably good in their day. Technology marches on though and Mills or something like them would almost certainly sound better.

    Since you already have those components may as well try them. My philosophy is I don't like to do things twice so I usually go for the best I can on the first try.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • shary_exe
    shary_exe Posts: 23
    edited April 2014
    Thank you all for the support and knowledge that you all have shared with me.

    My oh my.. Its absolutely brilliant now after changing the resistor and inductor coil. The sound stage is really wide and open.
    Listened to the Frozen by Madonna it was a really an experience. Am really a proud owner of SDA speaker now.

    I think the bass needs some more improvement cause and the moment its not really tight. May be it will improve with time since these where not pushed since a decade plus,

    I believe they are a bit power hungry, what I noticed is that when I bring my Emotiva preamp volume to 12 o'clock on my EMOTIVA XPA-2 the real color is coming out.

    What do you guys suggest, should I upgrade to some mono blocks which might be 500W + ?
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  • amb426amb1
    amb426amb1 Posts: 148
    edited April 2014
    I would replace the large SDA inductor to improve bass and also improve mids. I used the cost conscience erse super Q inductor from parts express. It looks like you could order a direct replacement value part # 266-958 at a cost of $ 37.00 bucks each. I think your speaker calls for a 18 Mh value. You still might want to experiment with unwinding this inductor to find the sweet spot for your situation. I prefered a slightly lower value than my speaker schematic called for.
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