Help on 3.1 TL
Comments
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The Club Polk price is $48.00 each. CALL Polk to order.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
amb426amb1 wrote: »That's why 2 of my 6 sl-3000 in my 2.3's were goldish and the rest were silver/black. 2 of the 6 were fried on purchase but I already knew the new RDO replacements were going in and the purchase price was lowered for that upgrade. Everyone of them had a different date on them when I replaced them and the original owner had a Adcom he drove them with.
The different dates and colors would indicate the previous owner didn't know the limits of his amp.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Any clue about how much a pair of these replacement tweeters would cost? and the process of ordering them.
Just got some last week... $48 plus free shipping to US. I would contact POLK for shipping quote in your case. Mention your a Club member for a discount. -
Thanks a lot for the information. I will try to call and place an order today itself. Wrote a mail to the customer care yesterday bu no reply yet
. Will try to call them today. I just cant wait to hear them in its full colour. -
Hi Members,
in the following link its mentioned that both the pin and blade on the interconnect cable carries a signal
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?2872-Need-Pin-Blade-Interconnect-for-SDA-1.2
Is it the same for the 3.1tl too? -
Hi Members,
in the following link its mentioned that both the pin and blade on the interconnect cable carries a signal
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?2872-Need-Pin-Blade-Interconnect-for-SDA-1.2
Is it the same for the 3.1tl too?
In your case only the pin carries needed signal to other speaker with the blade as I understand is used to support and hold cable in place. I have the pin/blade type and have just connected the pin portion using a RCA cable for now until I get around to a more permanent solution. I did solder a good gauge speaker wire to the center pin of the RCA for better signal transfer. I see polkieman attached his version of this in post #15. Did you ever get a hold polk on tweeters? -
Yeah for me too after using the single rca cable I am able to get the signal...but the above link just confused me. I ddint check the schematic for 3.1TL though. Can anyone confirm this that there is no signal being passed using the blade?
Ahh the wait for the call to be answered by polk is killing me...everytime 10 - 15 min it takes for someone to respond... am just going to place a call as soon as I finish this post. -
Blade only goes to ground and passes no signal UNLESS you use the A-1 cable or built a dreadnaught THEN and ONLY then it carries the ground to make a common ground. A-1 and Dreadnaught were made for mono bloc's or non common ground amplifiers
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At last my order is placed.. I hope it's just the tweeter which is faulty. Can't wait to enjoy these speakers
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When you get those tweeters your going to be quite happy I suspect. And look at the bright side I bought 6 of them for mine.At last my order is placed.. I hope it's just the tweeter which is faulty. Can't wait to enjoy these speakersPOLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
At last my order is placed.. I hope it's just the tweeter which is faulty. Can't wait to enjoy these speakers
I think you will be happy when the new RDO-198 tweeters are installed. Let us know how it turns out.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."![:\](https://forum.polkaudio.com/resources/emoji/confused.png ":\")
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
my tweeters are on its way ... what would be the next suggested upgrade? Do the caps deteriorate the performance in course of time or it just stop working?
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my tweeters are on its way ... what would be the next suggested upgrade? Do the caps deteriorate the performance in course of time or it just stop working?[/QUOTE
I changed the large low pass inductor with a laminated steel core unit which has a lower DCR and provides a improved bass impact as well as better midrange improvements. It was a cheep upgrade and a big improvement. Next for me will be XO upgrade with new caps and resistors. -
At last the tweeters have reached me today. Took half day off since I couldnt wait to hear them. Connected them....but still remain as a unhappy listener. The speakers are not performing up to the mark. It sounds so dull and on one of the speaker the tweeter sounds really feeble.
Now I think a thorough investigation on XO is required. What do you guys suggest. These speakers where kept idle for more than 10 years, will that deteriorate the performance of XO components?
The bass is not punchy as well.
My gear is
Emotiva XPA-2 , Emotiva USP-1 Preamp. Will this power be enough to drive them? -
How close to the rear wall are they? At least 2' from any side walls? What speakers did you have prior to these?
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How close to the rear wall are they? At least 2' from any side walls? What speakers did you have prior to these?
They are placed almost 15" from the hind wall.side wall to the right speaker is 2' and it's an open space for the left speaker.
I've been using Linn nexus, canton Gle 490, definitive BP 7004 before this. -
The new tweeters take 24 to 48 hours to break in, which would explain the dull sound, but it would appear you have something else going on with the "freeble" tweeter/speaker. Swap tweeters to see if the issue follows.
Your set up, while not right, isn't the dull/freeble problem. They should be 6 to 8 inches off the back wall, no toe in, 6 to 8 feet apart and at least THREE feet from any side wall.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Now I think a thorough investigation on XO is required. What do you guys suggest. These speakers where kept idle for more than 10 years, will that deteriorate the performance of XO components?
The bass is not punchy as well.
If none of the above suggestions remedies your issue, remove the passive radiator (the large driver at the bottom of the front baffle) and take some pics of the crossover. Perhaps there is something visual that will give a clue such as a burned out resistor, poor/ missing connections, etc. Then remove the crossover from the cabinet and take pics.
Post those on this thread - this should be a fairly easy problem to diagnose."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
I think the speakers were really abused. I removed the radiators and found the following. I am attaching a pic of XO too . Am really sad about what I saw
The tweeter Inductor .3 mH is burned as shown in the picture also the 1.3 ohm resistor for tweeter is also burnt and broken.
what is the recommended repair kit for the same, the resitors are available but am not sure about the inductor. If I've to buy it from where should I get it from . Or is it possible to wind it to the specific value?
If someone can tell me how these components have added to my problem I might get some relief.
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Yep its time to contact VR3 and buy some boards, inductors and recap those suckers. Really look like they got just a little warm
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Wow those are toasty. Too bad you didn't see those before. Did you ever purchase them from the owner? I assume that your purchase of tweeters makes them yours now. How technical are you with following schematics. could do point to point hook up if buying new boards is out of the question.
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Looks like the work of dj/proamps....................it sounded great, right up until it didn't.HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
Oh well, time to do it and do it right anyway.
http://www.gimpod.com/parts31tl.htmlPOLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
Yeah they belong to me now..
Am not that great with schematics. But I do have a person to help me if I get your suggestions.
I am not able to make up my mind about spending 600+ $ on the XO. Since not sure that these will deliver.
kindly advise how I can proceed as you've mentioned point to point rectification. Thanks -
Trust me, they will deliver. The recapping of the crossovers would be needed even if the crossovers weren't fried. Recap them with the caps, resistors and Jantzen inductors (of your choice, although I recommend Sonicap/Mills at the minimum) from VR3 mods (Trey) and the 3.1TL's will make you happy.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
Wow, hard to believe some idiot did that to those speakers. +1 to what headrott said, those are well worth rebilding the Xovers.
If you or a buddy can do the work you can get Sonicap caps and Mills reistors here: http://www.soniccraft.com/ They're having a 20% off sale too. Boards and inductors from VR3 are are a good choice too.
VR3 or Westmassguy here on the forum have lots of satisfied customers for Xover work, though I've not used them. Good luck to you and keep us posted on your situation."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Have your friend study the schematic. The boards new from VR3 make this a much easier straight forward soldering project. I think you really have to invest in them as you now own a great speakers that cannot be enjoyed. Your obvious disappointment is based on speakers that can not be judged in their current state. There is a wide range of prices for the needed parts. Any choice will bring back listening pleasure.
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I am not able to make up my mind about spending 600+ $ on the XO. Since not sure that these will deliver.
kindly advise how I can proceed as you've mentioned point to point rectification. Thanks
Not sure I'd spent that coin on them either. Too many speakers out there on the used market not needing the added expense and aggravation.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Too many speakers out there on the used market not needing the added expense and aggravation.
And not one of them can do what SDA's can. :biggrin:I am not able to make up my mind about spending 600+ $ on the XO. Since not sure that these will deliver.
If you do them yourself with your friend the parts shouldn't cost anywhere near $600. That said, done up they will deliver in spades.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Looking at the schematics which can be found here: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?55888-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-Stereo-Dimensional-Array%28SDA%29 , with Sonicraft's 20% off sale you can get the caps (they don't list exact values for the 1.3 ohm resistor, but they may be able to get it), to do both speakers for $274 + shipping. Don't know what the inductors would cost but maybe another $100, + a set of Gimpod's boards at $100. We're at $474 + shipping.
You can get Gimpod's boards + the jantzen inductors from from VR3.
All this is using top quality parts.
The next thing I would do is show the previous owner the pics you posted and get a price adjustment."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
