torn surround on a monitor 10

DracoAmericanus
DracoAmericanus Posts: 112
edited March 2014 in Vintage Speakers
I replave the foam ones all the time on other speakers but was wondering is there are rubber versions for the 10 inch drivers if they had been torn my children, pets or a customer? most of my suppliers have foam and some rubber but not for polks does any one have a lead for the rubber ones?
thanks for your time
Draco
There is no cure....
Luxman M117, SDA SRS 2.3, rear monitor 10, back rear bose 4.2, valodyne sub and 2 Onkyo m-504 amps Onkyo TX-NR709
8mm, 7.62x39mm
Post edited by DracoAmericanus on

Comments

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited March 2014
    10 inch drivers?
    You mean the passive radiator?
    PR is not as critical as mid woofers so if the tear is not too big, you can apply aleene's tacky glue on the back with some coffee filter reinforcement.
    If it's too big and pieces are missing, you can buy rubber surrounds from ebay and replace.
    Or look for replacement PR, they come up often and may cost same as doing all the re-rubbering work.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited March 2014
    Mystery wrote: »
    10 inch drivers?
    You mean the passive radiator?
    PR is not as critical as mid woofers so if the tear is not too big, you can apply aleene's tacky glue on the back with some coffee filter reinforcement.
    If it's too big and pieces are missing, you can buy rubber surrounds from ebay and replace.
    Or look for replacement PR, they come up often and may cost same as doing all the re-rubbering work.

    This, if the tear is not huge, will work fine! I've done it with smaller mid-drivers.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited March 2014
    If it's too big and pieces are missing, you can buy rubber surrounds from ebay and replace.

    You can't just slap any rubber surround on there and no one makes the proper surrounds for MWxxxx or the PR's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited March 2014
    Aleen's Tacky Glue is not suitable for rubber. If it's a small tear or split, use a toothpick dipped in a thick bodied Cyanoacrylate (the brush-on type). Insert the toothpick into the tear, and spread it the full length of the tear. It will permanently bond the two sides. If the tear or split is larger, a solvent based glue, designed specifically for rubber should be used on the back, re-enforced with coffee filter or Tyvek type material. As for replacement surrounds, all rubber surrounds are not all created equal. Some are thicker than others. If the same type of rubber and thickness are not used, the T/S parameters for the PR will be altered.
    If you can't find solvent glue designed for rubber surrounds, this product will work : http://www.amazon.com/Rema-Touring-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0012NVVUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1352515604&sr=8-1&keywords=rema
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited March 2014
    What's w/ the ammo references in your sig? Mauser and H/K fit the bill for both.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited March 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    You can't just slap any rubber surround on there and no one makes the proper surrounds for MWxxxx or the PR's.
    Yes, buying new/used mid or PR as a whole is better but none of the replacements (whether foam or rubber) is exactly like original if you go and measure the parameters unless the manufacturer has extra surrounds lying around.
    Some replacements will be close and better than not having anything there while using thick/stiff car subwoofer surrounds on home mid woofer will not be close at all.

    Aleen's Tacky Glue is not suitable for rubber. If it's a small tear or split, use a toothpick dipped in a thick bodied Cyanoacrylate (the brush-on type). Insert the toothpick into the tear, and spread it the full length of the tear. It will permanently bond the two sides. If the tear or split is larger, a solvent based glue, designed specifically for rubber should be used on the back, re-enforced with coffee filter or Tyvek type material. As for replacement surrounds, all rubber surrounds are not all created equal. Some are thicker than others. If the same type of rubber and thickness are not used, the T/S parameters for the PR will be altered.
    If you can't find solvent glue designed for rubber surrounds, this product will work : http://www.amazon.com/Rema-Touring-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0012NVVUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1352515604&sr=8-1&keywords=rema

    I haven't tried cyanoacrylate (isn't that super glue?) yet thinking it'll be hard and not flexible like aleene's tacky glue but have patched up few ADS and polk rubber surrounds with Aleene's and so far holding fine.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited March 2014
    Aleen's contains no solvents that will bond with rubber. Any repairs made to a rubber surround will not last, especially when under stress, you can peel it right off. If you tried to attach a rubber surround with Aleen's during a re-edge, it wouldn't make it through sweep test tones to check the woofer. Cyanoacrylate will bond with just about anything, and is used to bond rubber surrounds to metal frames, and certain types of cones, such as metal. For repairs, it should only be used for a small split or tear, which I mentioned. Anything larger would require a solvent based glue designed to chemically bond with rubber.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,375
    edited March 2014
    I have had very good results repairing rubber surrounds with some StixAll http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E650A or other similar adhesives. These were car speakers that were subjected to hot and cold and much thumpin' and it held permanently.

    Just use enough to adhere the edges that are torn as not to add excessive stiffness.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited March 2014
    skrol wrote: »
    I have had very good results repairing rubber surrounds with some StixAll http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E650A or other similar adhesives. These were car speakers that were subjected to hot and cold and much thumpin' and it held permanently.

    Just use enough to adhere the edges that are torn as not to add excessive stiffness.
    Stan
    This product contains silicone, which releases acetic acid as it cures.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,375
    edited March 2014
    This product contains silicone, which releases acetic acid as it cures.

    You are correct. I should have added to keep it well ventilated (not installed in cabinet) until it is fully cured. This was not a problem with the car speakers as they were open baffle.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601