Who's making the best sounding car amp today?

disneyjoe7

Sal, with a ****'n stereo system I'm sure your mileage range is lowered....

WLDock

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Ok been thinking and talking to some local people about this amp upgrade and ....
Thinking Alpine PDX-F4 amp with speaker converter near the radio so I can wire RCA cables back to the amp. Thinking to wire 6 RCA so if add a radio or a sub amp later. Right now there's nothing I can do with the radio, no one making anything. But feel its ok for now like the Ipod input and the Blue tooth for a cell phone.
Polk Audio db5251 5-1/4" Component System for the front doors.
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" Slim 2-way Speakers for the rear deck.

1)What stereo did you car come with? 4 speaker, 6 speaker, etc? OEM amp?
2) Are you doing the install yourself?
3)I don't think you have read all the replies here...there are aftermarket kits to adapt an aftermarket radio to your car. So, that option is there. Nevertheless, if you like the features on the OEM radio, then keep it. But please don't use a basic LOC. Again, I mentioned and linked several OEM integration processors in previous replies...some are very cool and have DSP. At the very least use something like the Audio Control LC6i http://www.audiocontrol.com/dept.aspx?d_id=17612 or MTX re-Q5.http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Mobile/App/Product/Item/Overview.aspx?i=236REQ5&tp=61671 Remember most current OEM systems have the active noise control feature that turns the volume up or down and can reduce bass. Here is some more info on removing the mics: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=78483
http://9thgenaccord.org/forums/topic/2013-accord-subwoofer-and-disabling-anc-active-noise-cancelling/

Nice choice in an amp but do you think you will be happy with a 5-1/4" woofer up front and no sub? And I agree with MacLeod that the Polk dB are just OK speakers and more performance can be had if you look around and forget about the rear speakers.

If I were designing this factory upgrade, Power" and the "Best" front components for the budget would be my focus. Here is a design idea I would pose:
I would use the Pioneer DEH-80PRS deck as it has all the dsp and features one would need at a great price. I would use the Scosche dash kit: http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/2013-up-honda-accord

Or if you decide to use the OEM radio:

OEM Radio Integration - Audio Control LCQ-1 - $219
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1RT0PC2098&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Factory+Integration-_-9SIA1RT0PC2098&ef_id=UxXOlwAAAYrJfcu@:20140323172931:s

AMP - PPI P900.5 5 ch amp - $219 (wired for 230W x 2 components + 440 W x 1 sub
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38339_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.5.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp3788969&gclid=CNLx6pKOqb0CFWdk7Aodwi

FRONT COMPS: ScanSpeak Discovery 820013 - $371
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-kits/scanspeak-discovery-820013-6-autosound-system-pair/

For the sub I would do a single SQ 12" in a custom fiberglass enclosure tucked off to the side. However, there are custom wood enclosures around:

SUBS - 2 x Polk MM1040 - $132 each (also consider Dayton Audio RS subs)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MM1040-SVC-10-Car-Marine-Subwoofer-Polk-Audio-EACH-/390587911778?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item5

DUAL SUB ENCLOSURE - $170 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-Honda-ACCORD-2-10-SUB-BOX-Subwoofer-Speaker-Enclosure-by-ZEnclosures-/380661224898?_trksid=p2054897.l4275



HERE ARE SOME INSTALLS FOR YOUR VIEWING PLEASURE:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/158161-quick-log-simple-space-saving-sq-2013-accord-sedan-illusion-arc-alpine-rf.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/155070-2013-accord-sport-simple-rockford-fosgate-installation-thread.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/148091-2013-honda-accord-build.html
http://www.mobileedgeonline.com/honda-accord-audio/

WLDock

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Thinking Alpine PDX-F4 amp with speaker converter near

ack to the amp. to wire 6 RCA so if add a radio or a sub amp later. Right now there's nothing I can do with the radio, no one making anything. But feel its ok for now like the Ipod input and the Blue tooth for a cell phone.
Polk Audio db5251 5-1/4" Component System for the front doors.
Polk Audio db 651s 6-1/2" Slim 2-way Speakers for the rear deck.

1)What stereo did you car come with? 4 speaker, 6 speaker, etc? OEM amp?
2) Are you doing the install yourself?
3)I don't think you have read all the replies here...there are aftermarket kits to adapt an aftermarket radio to your car. So, that option is there. Nevertheless, if you like the features on the OEM radio, they keep it. But please don't use a basic LOC. Again, I mentioned and linked several OEM integration processors in previous replies...some are very cool and have DSP. At the very least use something like the Audio Control LC6i http://www.audiocontrol.com/dept.aspx?d_id=17612 or MTX re-Q5.http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Mobile/App/Product/Item/Overview.aspx?i=236REQ5&tp=61671 Remember most current OEM systems have the active noise control feature that turns the volume up or down and can reduce bass. Here is some more info on removing the mics: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=78483
http://9thgenaccord.org/forums/topic/2013-accord-subwoofer-and-disabling-anc-active-noise-cancelling/

Nice choice in an amp but do you think you will be happy with a 5-1/4" woofer up front and no sub? And I agree with MacLeod that the Polk dB are just OK speakers and more performance can be had if you look around and forget about the rear speakers.

If I were designing this factory upgrade, Power" and the "best" front components would be my focus. Here is a design idea I would pose:
I would use the Pioneer DEH-80PRSDEH-80PRS deck as it has all the dsp and features one woold need at a great price. I would use the Scosche dash kit: http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/2013-up-honda-accord

Or if you decide to use the OEM radio:

OEM Radio Integration - Audio Control LCQ-1 - $219
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1RT0PC2098&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Factory+Integration-_-9SIA1RT0PC2098&ef_id=UxXOlwAAAYrJfcu@:20140323172931:s

AMP - PPI P900.5 5 ch amp - $219 (wired for 230W x 2 components + 440 W x 1 sub
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38339_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.5.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp3788969&gclid=CNLx6pKOqb0CFWdk7Aodwi

FRONT COMPS: ScanSpeak Discover 820013 - $371
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-kits/scanspeak-discovery-820013-6-autosound-system-pair/

For the sub I would do a single SQ 12" in a custom fiberglass enclosure tucked off to the side. However, there are custom wood enclosures around:

SUBS - 2 x Polk MM1040 - $132 each (Also consider the Dayton Audio RS HO subs)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MM1040-SVC-10-Car-Marine-Subwoofer-Polk-Audio-EACH-/390587911778?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item5

DUAL SUB ENCLOSURE - $170 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-Honda-ACCORD-2-10-SUB-BOX-Subwoofer-Speaker-Enclosure-by-ZEnclosures-/380661224898?_trksid=p2054897.l4275



HERE ARE SOME INSTALLS FOR YOU VIEWING PLEASURE:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/158161-quick-log-simple-space-saving-sq-2013-accord-sedan-illusion-arc-alpine-rf.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/155070-2013-accord-sport-simple-rockford-fosgate-installation-thread.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/148091-2013-honda-accord-build.html
http://www.mobileedgeonline.com/honda-accord-audio/

disneyjoe7

2014 LX Accord 4 speakers, 160 watts (right)


I plan on doing it myself, I don't like many other people installing.


Oh and I'm going to be 50 this year the new 30 wink wink.... Not sure if I need a sub....

MacLeod

WLDock wrote:

FRONT COMPS: ScanSpeak Discover 820013 - $371
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...d-system-pair/

Yes yes and more yes! Love me some Scan!

And Joe, you need a sub. Don't confuse a sub with the 17 year old dipstick driving thru your neighborhood at 3AM. 6.5's in a door free air won't be able to produce much of anything below 63 Hz with authority. That's leaving an awful lot of energy and output on the table. A single 10 with around 300+ watts will add a lot if bottom end to your overall sound quality.

disneyjoe7

Beginning to think this idea is a big Rabbit HOLE....

disneyjoe7

Why a sub, I don't like subs for music my 2 channel is just that 2 channels at home.

WLDock

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Oh and I'm going to be 50 this year the new 30 wink wink.... Not sure if I need a sub....

It can be tough to get good midbass and subbass from a leaky door. So, they must be sealed and deadened...no benefits of large wooden enclosures like in home Audio. Still directing the lower bass to a sub does wonders for clarity, impact, midbass, subbass, warmth, etc. Even a small 8"-10" infinite baffle or sealed on the rear deck can do it. Even the OEMs have figured that out. Trust me, the 19 speaker Mark Levinson system w/10" sub in the Lexus LS and the 19 speaker Bang & Oulsen system with 8" sub and over 1000 watts ICEpower amps in the Audio A8 is not designed for the 21 year old bass head....but the 40-65 year old wealthy audiophile. STOP thinking CAR AUDIO SPL Sonic BOOM!!!!! and think full range quality audio....one is never too old for that in the home and the car!

I'm 47 years young myself!

MacLeod wrote: »

Yes yes and more yes! Love me some Scan!

And Joe, you need a sub. Don't confuse a sub with the 17 year old dipstick driving thru your neighborhood at 3AM. 6.5's in a door free air won't be able to produce much of anything below 63 Hz with authority. That's leaving an awful lot of energy and output on the table. A single 10 with around 300+ watts will add a lot if bottom end to your overall sound quality.

Yep, you know what going on. I love the Illuminator tweeter, and the Discovery line is such a great value over the better and SO much more costly REV line. That Discover set should fit the Accord nicely!

disneyjoe7

Do you feel I could install Polk MM651 in the rear deck, and or MM6501 in the front doors? I got tools...

WLDock

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Why a sub, I don't like subs for music my 2 channel is just that 2 channels at home.

Your average large bookshelf or tower has a nice response down to 40Hz-30Hz. Your Carver's and RT800's will do it. However, the average car audio mid in a leaky door won' t do it very well. Cross them over at 70-80Hz or so and let the sub take over. The best SQ systems that I have heard had 15" subs in back but you would never know it unless you looked because the bass sound was upfront! Integration and tuning is just as important as the gear.

As far as the install....if you are handy, know basic electronics, you can do it. However, If you are a 2 channel music lover not sure why you are pushing replacing the rear? Most of the 2 ch audiophiles that I met on the car audio SQ competition circuit don't give a hoot about rear speakers. If they did they used bandpassed mids as rear fill speakers playing at a lower volume than the fronts.

WLDock

Maybe putting an 8" on the rear deck will work for you? This guy did it:http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75579

disneyjoe7

If I add a sub that's what I'm thinking to do, but need to make a hole for the sub woofer. Not a biggie. Then add an amp just for the sub.

MacLeod

You can always do something like this custom box from Zenclosures. Itll run ya around $150 shipped and fits nice and snug with the trunk's trim lines and eats up the least amount of trunk space. Im seriously thinking about getting one of these for my pair of MM10's.

Get one of those for around $150 shipped, a pair of DB 10's for $180 shipped, a set of those Scanspeak Discovery components for $371 + shipping and power it all with a 5 channel amp like either this JBL GTO (50x4 + 500x1) for $400 shipped or ideally this Alpine 5 channel (100x4 + 500x1) for $700.

Again, I dont have any experience with LOC's and factory integration so Ill leave that up to others to offer advice.

disneyjoe7

Well have to do a LOC for now, but it's an upgrade later if I can or wish to replace the radio. Doing so brings RCA cables back to the trunk for now. Not sure if I would be happy with the LOC and I'm thinking 50/50 if I should even do it now... But have no other options right now 2 stores told me no not yet. But like everything else someone will make something to work given some time.

WLDock

You don't have to wait for Metra, Scosche, or PAC to come out with one. For the 3rd time ...at least consider one of the basic Audio Control products for for your LOC. Can find the LC6i for about $100 shipped on eBay. Does all that one would need:

High Current 12-Volt Trigger Output
Internal Channel Summing
GTOTM - Signal Sensing Inputs
Speaker Level Inputs - Can Accept 400 Watt Signals!
Level Matching Controls
Six Input and Output Channels
AutoModeTM Turns 4-channel Input into 6-channel Output
Input for Optional Subwoofer Level Control

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/17612/222456/OEM-Integration/Line-Output-Converter----LC6i.html

Done right, some factory decks are not as bad as one may think.

disneyjoe7

Well I think you need to get ticked at me WLDock I hear ya. The more I look into it, not sure if it worth the trouble that is all. But saying that have you used a LC6i before, and if so would you feel it could have been better with a radio which had RCA outputs?

WLDock

As far as the OEM+ LOC vs. Aftermarket? I have yet to have the LOC system sound as good as a well tuned aftermarket deck. However, they all have to be level set, tuned, adjusted, etc to sound best...and some cars sound better than others. But keep in mind, there was a SQ vet that won a SQ comp using a factory deck....he had a VERY high end (Expensive) system otherwise. So, there are many factors.

So, you should decide if you want to go with an aftermarket deck or not....it will save unnecessary time and money in the end.

disneyjoe7

Good too hear, not looking to show off as just trying to get better sound music. Sucks I have it maxed out most times during my 53 miles trip to work.

WLDock

Damn, I cut off the beginning of my previous message when I pasted. Anyway, I was saying no worries, I want to make sure you are aware all of the options that are available. As far as the Audio Control unit, I have not used that exact unit but in my own systems or systems for others I have used the DQL-8, EQX, three 24XS, two 2XS and have had good results in all cases. The Audio Control products are great and are one of the better cheaper options out there. Maybe something like the better LCQ-1, JL Audio CleanSweep , Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty, JBL MS-8 will work out even better as some have EQ and room correction....I never used any of those units.

So is there a reason why you would be against the aftermarket options out there like the Pioneer DEH-80PRS deck and the Scosche dash kit i linked?: http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/2013-up-honda-accord

The 80PRS is an affordable super deck that will do all about one will need to do.
CD receiver with AM/FM tuner
audiophile-grade components and internal architecture
Pandora® Internet radio control with iPhone
built-in Bluetooth for hands-free calling and audio streaming
plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs, including discs loaded with MP3, WMA, and AAC files
detachable fold-face with 3-line full-dot LCD display, plus customizable display and key colors
remote control

Audio features:

16-band equalizer with separate left and right channel control
3-way crossover network
Auto-EQ and time alignment (Auto-EQ microphone included)
Advanced Sound Retriever
loudness
high- and low-pass filters
subwoofer level control

Expandability:

built in iPod control — no adapter necessary, but adding Pioneer's optional connecting cable lets you leave your iPod cable at home
App Mode offers limited control of music apps through iPhone connection
inputs: two rear 1-amp USB inputs, front and rear auxiliary inputs, SD card slot
outputs: 6-channel preamp outputs (5-volt front, rear, sub — switchable to high, mid, low)

WLDock

Doubl post

disneyjoe7

I MISS MY TWEETERS store that is... Every store I walk isn't impressive, not that I been to many but...

MacLeod

Yeah i definitely miss Tweeter. I used to go in there all the time. Had the Polk Momo 6's and JL Audio XR's side by side with theBoston Z's too. Bought several things from them. Just not a big enough market to support a high end B&M store.

disneyjoe7

Sad someone like ourselves can't see just what we want to buy. Get a feel what's out there, talk to people who been there. All I find is junk stores and installers, maybe just where I'm at but...

disneyjoe7

double post

MacLeod

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Sad someone like ourselves can't see just what we want to buy. Get a feel what's out there, talk to people who been there. All I find is junk stores and installers, maybe just where I'm at but...

Tell me about it. Probably no other hobby is buying blind a bad bad way of going as is audiophiledom. So many different speakers with so many different sounds. I mean there aren't even any car audio magazines left so you can't even find reviews. At least home audio has Zaph but he loathes car audio and won't test any of their drivers.

daddy2kids

Hello everyone and mods.
Doing my research for car amplifiers. Can anyone help a beginner out?
I want to buy one but I'm confused with all the information I'm reading on reviews.
Can anyone tell me which one is good to buy in this review?
Review-Good car amplifiers
Thanks.

daddy2kids

Hello everyone and mods.
Doing my research for car amplifiers. Can anyone help a beginner out?
I want to buy one but I'm confused with all the information I'm reading on reviews.
Can anyone tell me which one is good to buy in this review?
Review-Good car amplifiers
Thanks.

willsinclair

I think Alpine has strong power on car audio issue . I am using ALPINE PDX-V9 . is a compact and more affordable product with good reviews and manufacturer’s reputation. It features maximum power of 900 W and in 100W RMS x 4 + 500W RMS x 1 configuration. The system’s output is enough to power commonly build in car speakers or aftermarket subwoofers up to 12-inch size. It doesn’t overheat and is well isolated. Users reported no problems with this product and generally positive reviews. With its compact size and stackable installation design with front-panel controls, it is easy to install and it doesn’t require a lot of space. With the affordable price and good specifications, this is a recommended product.

halo

daddy2kids wrote: »

Hello everyone and mods.
Doing my research for car amplifiers. Can anyone help a beginner out?
I want to buy one but I'm confused with all the information I'm reading on reviews.
Can anyone tell me which one is good to buy in this review?
Review-Good car amplifiers
Thanks.

Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, & Alpine would be my top 4 (in no particular order but the Pioneer amps are a pretty good value for the dollar).

If you are looking to save money and go with a lesser known company or one that just costs less, try out the Hifonics or Rockville amps.

tonyb

Check these out, though I think they are in the process of revamping the lines.

http://www.butleraudio.com/car.php