Need Assistance with Polk SDA-SRS 3.1TL

decato
decato Posts: 186
edited March 2014 in Vintage Speakers
Hi everyone,
I bought a pair of SRS 3.1TLs in December and finally got around to trying them out. It turns out I have two unmatched speakers. One has a serial number on the back of 1099 without many mentioning that it is a 3.1.TL. That's only the beginning of the differences.

One has a 2.0 ohm resistor and 25 watt resistor in series with dimensional array, as seen in this thread: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?124267-Should-I-remove-resistor-3.1tl
Interestingly, the 18.0 mH inductor is made out of 20 gauge wire.

The other channel matches the schematic. As expected, the 18.0 mH inductor is made out of 22 gauge wire, and there is no resistor in series with driver. Using spare parts I have, I can find a way to make both channels the same, so I'm not too concerned there.

The problem is the 12" passive radiator is also a prototype. It is marked BD1212-A, and the date of assembly predates the schematic for the 3.1TL. It does does not have "Polk Audio" stamped on the rubber surround, the basket is slightly different (smaller hole, different side supports), and tapping the cone produces a different sound than when tapping the other channel's final revision of BD1212-B.

Question: Does anyone have a Polk 12" paper cone passive radiator (or pair) they are willing to sell? The only other speaker that has a similar passive radiator is the Monitor 12 Series 2, but it uses SW123 whereas the 3.1TL uses SW122. I don't recall the differences being documented. If you have any spare parts lying around or can point me to some information about the different passive radiators' specifications, I would be very grateful.

It's a shame that Polk released unmatched pairs to dealerships. I highly doubt the previous owner noticed, so I cannot fault him. I myself did not know to inspect at this level of granularity.

Thanks,
Brian
Post edited by decato on

Comments

  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited March 2014
    Very seldom do Serial #'s run consecutively, I wouldn't know if the interior differences are due to Polk at the time of manufacture, or someone else at a later date trying to repair something, that had no idea as to what they were doing. Just a guess on my part.

    Good luck on finding a replacement PR, those things can be very difficult to come by.
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    I took a few pictures of the different inductors in case anyone else is in the same position.

    The left channel had BE0032-A, 18 mH, 20 gauge. This channel also had the 2.0 ohm, 25 watt resistor in series with the dimensional array.
    The right channel had BE0033-A, 18 mH, 22 gauge. Notice how much less space is taken up as the wire is wound around the bobbin.

    The date on BE0032-A is 3/90. However, the 3.1TL schematic is from 4/90.

    I think I understand what the engineers at Polk were doing. The single dimensional driver exhibits long cone excursions with bass frequencies. In order to attenuate the bass so that the excursions are approximately equal to those exhibited by the four stereo drivers, a 2.0 ohm resistor was put in series. However, the resistor affects all frequencies, not just bass. Moreover, the added resistance shifts the crossover frequency.

    Once Polk engineers finalized the design, they settled on an inductor with 22 gauge wire instead of 20. The thinner wire offers more resistance, eliminating the need for the separate 2.0 ohm resistor, and affects only the low frequencies. Less components, thinner wire, and no series resistor = a simpler and less expensive design.

    Now, it turns out I do not have the necessary spare parts to complete the crossover. I think I'll have to send the bobbin out to Madisound and have them create a custom one for me, if that's at all possible. It's virtually impossible to find an 18 mH inductor with 22 gauge wire. No one wants insertion loss and possible saturation in a low-pass design (unless the bass driver is outnumbered 4-to-1)!

    Please correct me if you have additional information.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited March 2014
    Only you Brian and just the man up for the challenge.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited March 2014
    This is quite a catch decato.What an odd duck.
    I will check as I may have the standard SW-122 around.
    If memory serves me I picked up a pair a couple years ago knowing they are rare.If I have 2 you can have one.I doubt I'll ever need 2 spares.
    At least until I get rid of one of course.
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    brgman wrote: »
    I will check as I may have the standard SW-122 around.

    Thank you so much! If you find it and are willing to part with it, let me know your price.
  • Jhayman
    Jhayman Posts: 1,548
    edited March 2014
    Hi Decato, I recently picked up a pr of 3.1TL's but mine have 12" subwoofers not passive radiators..
    Now I'm extremely new into the SDA SRS world but according to the spec sheets they use 12" subwoofers only the 1.3 and 2.3's used passive Rads..
    ATC SCM40's,VTL TL 2.5 Preamp,PSB Stratus Goldi's,McCormack DNA 500,McCormack MAP-1 Preamp,Pro-Ject Xtension 10 TT,Ortofon Cadenza Red/Nordost RedDawn LS Speaker cables, Bryston BDP-2, Bryston BDA-2,PS Audio AC-3 power cables
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Only you Brian and just the man up for the challenge.

    As I get older, I just want things to be easy. Apparently my Staples "Easy Button" does not work!
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    Jhayman wrote: »
    Now I'm extremely new into the SDA SRS world but according to the spec sheets they use 12" subwoofers only the 1.3 and 2.3's used passive Rads..

    All Polk SDA speakers used passive radiators. They were called "fluid-coupled subwoofers" on the brochures, where the fluid was air inside a sealed cabinet. The 3.1TL was the only one to use a convex paper cone. All other SDAs used a planar styrofoam disc.
  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,428
    edited March 2014
    decato wrote: »
    All Polk SDA speakers used passive radiators. They were called "fluid-coupled subwoofers" on the brochures, where the fluid was air inside a sealed cabinet. The 3.1TL was the only one to use a convex paper cone. All other SDAs used a planar styrofoam disc.

    This. No active subwoofers in the Polk SDAs.
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    Well, Adam from Madisound was less than helpful. He said, "We don't make our own coils and, to be honest, I don't care about that stuff [Polk SDAs and my project]." So, screw Madisound.

    Does anyone know where I can get a custom inductor made?

    Thanks!
  • fjross
    fjross Posts: 183
    edited March 2014
    Yes, Trey @ V3 Mods should be able to help you out.
    Mcintosh MC-501 mono blocks
    Mcintosh C-45
    Mcintosh MVP-871
    PS AUDIO AV5000
    MIT 3.3 Shotgun biwire speaker interface
    MIT 3.3 Shotgun XLR interconnects
    Polk 2.3TL's Gimpod boards/F-1 modded crossovers/dynamat/JB weld/Larry's rings/Blackhole 5 strips
    Polk 3.1 TL's mint/stock (purchased new)
    Polk SDA-2's
  • Jhayman
    Jhayman Posts: 1,548
    edited March 2014
    Ah see I learn something new everyday...Thank You
    decato wrote: »
    All Polk SDA speakers used passive radiators. They were called "fluid-coupled subwoofers" on the brochures, where the fluid was air inside a sealed cabinet. The 3.1TL was the only one to use a convex paper cone. All other SDAs used a planar styrofoam disc.
    ATC SCM40's,VTL TL 2.5 Preamp,PSB Stratus Goldi's,McCormack DNA 500,McCormack MAP-1 Preamp,Pro-Ject Xtension 10 TT,Ortofon Cadenza Red/Nordost RedDawn LS Speaker cables, Bryston BDP-2, Bryston BDA-2,PS Audio AC-3 power cables
  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited March 2014
    decato wrote: »
    Well, Adam from Madisound was less than helpful. He said, "We don't make our own coils and, to be honest, I don't care about that stuff [Polk SDAs and my project]." So, screw Madisound.

    Does anyone know where I can get a custom inductor made?

    Thanks!

    Are you just looking to get the inductor to be standard spec?
    Or are you tweaking white paper spec on these 3.1's?
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    brgman wrote: »
    Are you just looking to get the inductor to be standard spec?
    Or are you tweaking white paper spec on these 3.1's?

    I will follow the standard spec for the inductor -- 18 mH, 22 gauge wire. I might tweak other parts of the design, but this part is pretty much etched in stone.
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited March 2014
    Go ahead and get Tony's boards and do the whole crossover right and both the same IMHO :-)
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
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    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited March 2014
    decato wrote: »
    I will follow the standard spec for the inductor -- 18 mH, 22 gauge wire. I might tweak other parts of the design, but this part is pretty much etched in stone.

    do you need a stock inductor?
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    brgman wrote: »
    do you need a stock inductor?

    Hi Mike,
    Yes! Do you have one?
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited March 2014
    The 18mh Inductor is part of the "Full Compliment Sub Bass Drive Circuit". That inductor should be changed to a lower resistance Inductor, if your amp can handle the load.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    That inductor should be changed to a lower resistance Inductor, if your amp can handle the load.

    Yes, in any of the SDA models where the number of stereo drivers is equal to the number of dimensional drivers. I have made that modification to the 1.2TL. Making that modification to the 3.1TL will put a lot of stress on the single dimensional driver. I will not make this modification to my speakers.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited March 2014
    Fair enough
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited March 2014
    decato wrote: »
    Hi Mike,
    Yes! Do you have one?

    Pretty sure i do.I got a set of 3.1tl xovers to mod differently than the Solens xovers i have in but after further investigation and how dang great they sound already i will not be making the investment.
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    OK, let me know about the inductor and passive radiator. I'm hopeful you can help me out.
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited March 2014
    I have a PR if brgman can't locate his.

    stubby
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited March 2014
    I have to agree about Madisound being less then helpful, I avoid them when I can..
  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    stubby wrote: »
    I have a PR if brgman can't locate his.

    Thanks, I appreciate your help. I'll follow up with you shortly, but I think brgman will be able to complete the transaction.
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited March 2014
    Sounds good - what ever it takes to get a great pair of speakers back on their feet!
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    stubby wrote: »
    I have a PR if brgman can't locate his.

    I wish to thank stubby for selling me his spare passive radiator. Without his help, I would not be able to get my 3.1TLs back up and running. I am just waiting for my custom inductor to arrive in the mail, and I should have them playing again this weekend.

    As a side note, 3.1TL owners might want to check the integrity of the internal bracing. All three supports than run from front to back had detached from the front baffle. Tapping on the cabinet produced a hollow thud sound. I spent some time with my hot glue gun, and the cabinet feels much more solid.
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited March 2014
    Always glad to help out a fellow Polkie.
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2014
    I also want to publicly thank Chad from Meniscus Audio in Michigan for his help with my project. I sent him the bobbin, and he removed all the 20 gauge wire and replaced it with 22 gauge wire, matching the resistance and inductance called for in the schematic. The price was also very reasonable. So, I'm up and running!

    Now it's time to make a few modifications...