Interconnect cable

Easy Runnin

I'm getting ready to make an I/C cable for my 1Cs and need some advise. I picked up neutrik 4 pole connectors. How would you install these? For example, how would you enlarge the hole in the binding post cup? Although I haven't looked for one, I think it will be difficult to find a .929' drill bit. And it probably won't fit in my drill anyway. Where would I get the wire connectors for the 1/4 inch flat tabs on the back of the panel mount? I assume thru bolting is preferred over wood screws and lots of hot glue to prevents leaks. For now I'm going to use 14ga speaker wire. Is that good enough? Any other suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks

F1nut

The third pic down shows it mounted, to give you an idea. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?142058-A-slightly-different-take-on-the-Dreadnought&highlight=dreadnought

Drill out the pop rivets, which allows you to remove the original socket. Next mark the diameter of the Neutrik connector on the plastic of the cup. Use a Dremel to carefully remove the material. Drop the connector into the hole to mark the 2 holes for the screws and drill them out. Ideally, you should use 3M screws, nuts and lock washers. Mounting the Neutrik in that location also requires you to use the optional gasket.

Fastons can be purchased from Home Depot, Mouser, Digikey, etc.

westmassguy

F1nut wrote: »

The third pic down shows it mounted, to give you an idea. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?142058-A-slightly-different-take-on-the-Dreadnought&highlight=dreadnought

Drill out the pop rivets, which allows you to remove the original socket. Next mark the diameter of the Neutrik connector on the plastic of the cup. Use a Dremel to carefully remove the material. Drop the connector into the hole to mark the 2 holes for the screws and drill them out. Ideally, you should use 3M screws, nuts and lock washers. Mounting the Neutrik in that location also requires you to use the optional gasket.

Fastons can be purchased from Home Depot, Mouser, Digikey, etc.

This^^^^^^^^^^^
You can also use a rotary rasp attached to a variable speed drill to enlarge the hole. You can use small machine screws and nuts, or #4 or #6 X 1/2" wood screws, which hold quite well in the plastic binding post cup. I don't use the gasket, rather I seal the back side with a bead of Loctite Power Grab, Clear Acrylic. The Female Fastons/Quick-Connects needed are 3/16". I crimp and solder the connector to the wire, then once slid onto the male post, I solder the connector to the post.

Easy Runnin

Thank you.

What are 3M screws? That company makes everything special. I have the NL4MP-UC panel mounts. These have 1/4 inch tabs. Does having the UC version matter? I wouldn't think so. I only need 1 wire, right? Would it be a good idea to connect both the red and black wires to the speakons and then jump the 2 tabs to the blue wire going to the xo?

Also how strong is the power grab? Is it removeable or is it more permanent like 3Ms 5200. That stuff has some serious holding power. If I can use the power grab to cover the backs of the speakons and binding posts and to reattach the side panels, and still have the ability to remove some day without destroying things, I'll probably go that route.

Dave- What xo is that in your picture? Is that what mine should look like after it is recapped? Is everything back on there?

westmassguy

Easy Runnin wrote: »

Thank you.

What are 3M screws? That company makes everything special. I have the NL4MP-UC panel mounts. These have 1/4 inch tabs. Does having the UC version matter? I wouldn't think so. I only need 1 wire, right? Would it be a good idea to connect both the red and black wires to the speakons and then jump the 2 tabs to the blue wire going to the xo?

Also how strong is the power grab? Is it removeable or is it more permanent like 3Ms 5200. That stuff has some serious holding power. If I can use the power grab to cover the backs of the speakons and binding posts and to reattach the side panels, and still have the ability to remove some day without destroying things, I'll probably go that route.

Dave- What xo is that in your picture? Is that what mine should look like after it is recapped? Is everything back on there?

The Loctite is incredible stuff. I use it all throughout the cabinets for sealing and gluing purposes. Once it's fully cured, and combined with machine or wood screws, your SpeakON jacks will not move. As for removing it, I wouldn't know, never had the need to. I also use it on the woofer magnet assemblies. Much easier to use that epoxy.
The SpeakON jacks you have are the heavier 40 amp version and do have 1/4" connectors. I use the originals which have 3/16" connectors. 3M, which F1 mentioned, I believe refers to the Metric Screw Size. You can use nuts and bolts on the binding post cups, but the small wood screws work well too. I carry one interconnect cable, 10 gauge OFC. I use it for all 5 generations. On the 4th and 5th generation, you can combine the two wires by a jumper between the +1 and -1 terminals on the back of the SpeakOn Jack. This gives you a very low resistance cable between the speakers. The 1st through 3rd generation use both conductors separately.
The Crossover I showed in the photo is a complete 2BTL.

F1nut

I don't use the gasket

Ah yes, you wouldn't need the gasket as you have mounted the socket sideways, which on binding post plates without the upper binding posts is possible, but not so on the SDA's with the double binding posts. I missed that Easy Runnin has 1C's.

What are 3M screws?

It's the size, the holes are designed for 3 millimeter screws.

westmassguy

F1nut wrote: »

Ah yes, you wouldn't need the gasket as you have mounted the socket sideways, which on binding post plates without the upper binding posts is possible, but not so on the SDA's with the double binding posts. I missed that Easy Runnin has 1C's.



It's the size, the holes are designed for 3 millimeter screws.

Jesse, I've done SRSs with dual binding posts. The SpeakON is mounted vertically. No gasket needed.

F1nut

The rivet holes on my 2.3TL's were not covered by the Neutrik connector alone.

westmassguy

I did a pair of 2.3s, and there was just a hint of the old rivet holes. The sealer on the back took care of that. There's also the round version that's a bit larger.

F1nut

Yep and I don't like hints, so gasket on front and sealant on back...all good.

leftwinger57

Also for drilling out the holes. After the rivets are drilled and popped you can use a step bit or graduated drill bit. These are pretty expensive here but there are much cheaper ones. I went against the grain left the original sockets measured for the base module drilled an 1/8'' centering hole then flipped the cup. I then secured it by **** it into a piece of wood so it doesn't flop around and slowly drilled till the right size. Because it's plastic you must take it very slow or else you'll plow right through it. I also drilled the 2 mounting screws and then used a tiny bit of silicone from the rear at the base to seal it up. Locktite as I have learned is a much safer and better adhesive.

http://www.lowes.com/Drill-Bits/Step-Drill-Bits-Sets/Step-Drill-Bits/_/N-1z0wcjl/pl?rpp=32#!

Easy Runnin

How does this look? This is 16 ga tinned wire on the inside and 14 ga speaker wire for the cable. At some point down the road I'll upgrade the cable I was thinking I'd use a heat shrink butt connector on to the wire going to the xo.

F1nut

You're just making a new SDA cable, not for use with the Dreadnaught, right? If so, take the 2 leads of the cable, twist together and solder to one of the terminal slots on the Neutrik. Connect the lead from the crossover using a faston directly to the corresponding terminal on the backside. The way you've got that wired up has way too many connections. Besides, that splice/clamp thing is a really bad idea.

westmassguy

F1nut wrote: »

Yep and I don't like hints, so gasket on front and sealant on back...all good.

I knew you were a stickler Jesse. You sold me on the gaskets for vertical installations. Now I just have to sell you on full coverage with Dynamat.

westmassguy

leftwinger57 wrote: »

Also for drilling out the holes. After the rivets are drilled and popped you can use a step bit or graduated drill bit. These are pretty expensive here but there are much cheaper ones. I went against the grain left the original sockets measured for the base module drilled an 1/8'' centering hole then flipped the cup. I then secured it by **** it into a piece of wood so it doesn't flop around and slowly drilled till the right size. Because it's plastic you must take it very slow or else you'll plow right through it. I also drilled the 2 mounting screws and then used a tiny bit of silicone from the rear at the base to seal it up. Locktite as I have learned is a much safer and better adhesive.

http://www.lowes.com/Drill-Bits/Step-Drill-Bits-Sets/Step-Drill-Bits/_/N-1z0wcjl/pl?rpp=32#!

I use a multi-bit as well Lew, which gets me 90% there, then finish off with a rotary rasp.