dreading spike install

leftwinger57

I say this because I'm here alone and @ 80/85lbs my 2Bs are not easy to man handle. Now I know I can easily lever them to gently flip over that's no problem. I already know I'll have to move my console to place the things and since that's on sliders that's ok also. My worry is centering the base plates once the spikes are screwed in and leveled.I have this idea and see if you agree w/ this or have a better way, and there is only me so keep that in mind. Once screwed in before flipping them make a template of cardboard by piercing it and then make the holes big enoungh for a sharpie to mark the spots on the floor.Then place the felt pads on the bases then centered on the dots.I already taped off my leading edge line so at the very least I have a reference point. Make sense?

pitdogg2

Dude you need a friend

SCompRacer

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Dude you need a friend

+1 to that. There is so much that can go wrong wrestling large speakers points onto pads. IF you must, if you had some thin 1/4" plywood strips, you could stand the speaker up on the strips and tip/slide pads under each side.

I did some 140 pound speakers recently and had the wife help by placing pads while I tipped them.

nspindel

+1 for you need someone to help you.

mhardy6647

If it makes you feel any better, my intent has long been to spike the Duplexes now that they're ensconced in their forever home... I just cannot develop the chutzpah to go drillin' holes in 'em - even underneath - the prospect of wrestlin' 'em around (they probably weigh north of 150 lbs@ with drivers installed) isn't really the part that I dread.

SCompRacer

While not mentioned here, in another thread he showed pics of the placement on the hardwood floor he wishes to preserve. The speakers would have to be slid into place. My bud Norm (RIP) had stabbed himself in the toe wrestling some speakers and spikes by himself on carpet. :0

Here it is....

F1nut

Come on Lew, I could do that with one arm tied behind my back.

westmassguy

Lew, I'd help you, but I'm allergic to New Jersey.
Seriously though, you need at least two people, you could hurt yourself, the floor, or even snap the spikes right off or bend them trying to tilt them up.

leftwinger57

Well boys the good news is they are done. This was real easy, I fretted over nothing. The button sliders were like Jesse said tacked in w/ 1 tiny nail. I pried them out carefully and they just popped out. Next drilling the insersts w/ a 5/16th bit cleaned the holes and allen wrenched them in and then screwed the spikes in. Now I did mange to nab my upstairs neighbor to help w/ setting them into place. I thankfully padded the entire area so not scratch that wood you saw.Results again are mixed w/ me. Do I think there is better bass slam yeah, but not by that much.Don't get me wrong I'll try anything as long as I can afford it and this was cheap enough.I still think the final piece of the puzzle will be the x-overs and that's some $ and again will wait but intent on doing them is there.Guys you have to admit my 360* turn around about doing mods, I'am a believer even w/ the Blue Jeans Beldens i/cs I added this week also.Not much more to do on the 2B ladder.Oh, thanks for the concern.

leftwinger57

I forgot to mention I did take some shots but again my picture posting is failing me. Even after joining up w/ Photobucket and the pix ScompRacer is one of those shots. I must say it does look good. I posted a pix of Armacell today and worked fine then tried to do the spikes and I couldn't ditch that picture to produce the new ones. It's not that important anyone who has done them knows what they look like and how's it done + the steps I took. One day I will master pix posting. The thing is WestMass dude I know what your saying I would really like is to hear someones elses set up and then come over and evaluate mine. Rip me if you will but I think I'm doing ok and I will try trying to keep the mangled rambling down to a minimum....Lew

westmassguy

Lew, I was only kidding about New Jersey

NJPOLKER

I'd help you too if I didn't run from NJ.

Call Sal he can lift them and hold them while you install the spikes.

leftwinger57

Maybe I have a shot or 2.

http://s42.photobucket.com/user/leftwinger57leftwinger/media/DSCN03331_zpsc31c74ec.jpg.html

http://s42.photobucket.com/user/leftwinger57leftwinger/media/DSCN03291_zpsb2731f39.jpg.html

leftwinger57

N.J.Polker, thing is Sal also known I think as Lazaerath had 0 time for me when I asked him(p/m) about his exoctic wood tops he did for his monsters when I was either contemplaining either doing new tops or to refinish them.Yes he has a nice slide show knows his way around a computer and impressive speakers but since the only thing he did was refer me to Jesse and not answer word one about what I asked him I have no need for that guy. Besides I haven't seen or heard him around here for ages not that it would matter, I have my opinion of him and his elitism and he can shove it.

SCompRacer

At photobucket, look to menu box at right, Links To Share This Photo...click on the IMG link and it should auto copy, then paste it into your post for img to show.

Nice work!

leftwinger57

Scomp, If you look up a couple of posts I think they came through ok. I was confused on which out of the 4 choices of sending then copying them.I think I can do it on command now. I hope. Thanks, the actual install was a breeze. With this shot you can clearly see the difference between the light oak bottom edging and on the far right the Dark Walnut stained top. This was all under Jesse's tutilage and my work and now also I think the poly finish is clearly seen.Look far down to the left and you can see the bases and my tape front edge markers.

SCompRacer

Well they look great! Jesse has been helpful with wood finishing tips for me and others too.

Got them in place? We need a right side up spiked shot...lol

NJPOLKER

leftwinger57 wrote: »

N.J.Polker, thing is Sal also known I think as Lazaerath had 0 time for me when I asked him(p/m) about his exoctic wood tops he did for his monsters when I was either contemplaining either doing new tops or to refinish them.Yes he has a nice slide show knows his way around a computer and impressive speakers but since the only thing he did was refer me to Jesse and not answer word one about what I asked him I have no need for that guy. Besides I haven't seen or heard him around here for ages not that it would matter, I have my opinion of him and his elitism and he can shove it.

Oh well, that sucks. Where in central NJ are you? I grew up in Martinsville NJ Somerset County.

leftwinger57

Well here's some shots of the final spike install. Hopefully you'll see the left right orientation and notice something else. I thought putting just the spikes on the oak floors even w/ help would scratch the crap out of them. I do like to move them and if I get new and better speaker cables that's one more move. I picked up smallish furniture sliders drilled a minor hole(not all the way through) in the domed top left the paper on the adhesive side and they can now slde w/o scratching. Someone asked about saving a tile floor from a spike install this might be the way. Yes,I leveled them if appear uneven it's my photo shooting ability.$6 and change for the sliders.

westmassguy

Lew, I hate to say it, but I believe you've defeated the whole purpose of installing spikes. The Metal Spikes, and Metal Pucks COUPLE the Speaker to the floor. You've installed plastic glides under the spikes, which are really no different than the glides you removed from the bottom of the Speakers to begin with. The plastic may feel ridged, but you've effectively DE-COUPLED the Spikes and Speakers from the floor. You're back to square one. I would not be surprised, if in a few months, the spikes split or deformed the plastic glides.

leftwinger57

Oh, just FMINTA why don't you. Here I thought I had a great freaking idea to try to preserve and make any movement of these speakers a little bit easier. I still have all the discs. Dave what's a guy to do? Should I get those padded felt rounds that people showed or just go back to the original discs. They are pretty small, maybe a larger disc might be the answer. We had so much fun yesterday didn't we... lol lol. Is there something I can get from Home Depot some sort of slug about the size of a 1/2 dollar? How fast would I get thrown out of a Think Tank like the Rand Corp. w/ my wacky ideas...lol lol .One other thing please keep in mind I never blew up, ruined or destroyed anything unlike some others we know here frying amps and smoke billowing from speakers.

westmassguy

Lew, did you get metal discs or pucks with the spikes? If you did, that's what you're supposed to use. Anything padded, felt etc., will defeat the purpose.

leftwinger57

I did get the pucks as I said w/ the order and still have them.They came w/ adhesive pads that if n/g I can remove.You see how small they are. If this is the only way to get it right I'll do it. Again would a bigger diameter disc have any advantages and do you indeed add felt to the bottoms for any ease of slide or once in desired position that's it leave them be.

westmassguy

Lew, anything with adhesive or felt is going to DECOUPLE everything. You want the pucks or discs flat against the floor, nothing in between them. I use larger spikes and pucks than you: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380442486449?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Once the speakers are in place and leveled, you don't move them. What I do, is mark the location of the pucks with a soft pencil, or water based felt tip. Then if I have to move the speakers, I can put them right back where they were, and usually no re-leveling. No sliding involved.

leftwinger57

Dave, thanks a bunch I will remove any backing on the puck bases and do it to correct way.Thankfully this was a cheapo no fix.

pitdogg2

clear some PM's Lew

SCompRacer

Just an opposite viewpoint, on suspended hardwood floors you are better off with some speaker decoupling rather than coupling. Google it, plenty of evidence to support it. With my old speakers I made decoupling stands, currently using felt pads under my spike pads now. As usual, your mileage and preference will vary.