RT 10 and PSW100 problems
thundrrr
Posts: 7
I've had Polk speakers since before many of your club polk members were born. I currently have RT10 for front channels, CS250S center, PSW100 sub, and recently added the F/X Wireless surround. I also have M3 (or actually the older model of those triangular speakers) in the man cave and old Monitor 5jr's in my office Power at home is from a Marantz NR1602 new receiver.. Love them all! So what, you may ask, is the beef?
Recently we lost power to the house and my psw100 sub now no longer has power. No red light, no sound, no nothing. Yes, it was on a power strip surge protector (that got fried, but saved everything else). Need help with the sub.... do I just trash it and get another or what? Second problem -- my right front RT10 has a quiet, but noticeable buzz from the larger of the two speakers. It is very noticeable with some movies like Gladiator and can be heard at low volumes. Again, any suggestions? I hate to give up on the RT's after many years of service. I guess I could use the 5jr's for front channel, but ....Thanks for any help.
I'll be a Polk fan until the day I die!
Recently we lost power to the house and my psw100 sub now no longer has power. No red light, no sound, no nothing. Yes, it was on a power strip surge protector (that got fried, but saved everything else). Need help with the sub.... do I just trash it and get another or what? Second problem -- my right front RT10 has a quiet, but noticeable buzz from the larger of the two speakers. It is very noticeable with some movies like Gladiator and can be heard at low volumes. Again, any suggestions? I hate to give up on the RT's after many years of service. I guess I could use the 5jr's for front channel, but ....Thanks for any help.
I'll be a Polk fan until the day I die!
Post edited by thundrrr on
Comments
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No fuse on the PSW100. Still have the owner's manual and says if the red light doesn't come on, call Polk. I'll try your suggestion about the hum... switching the speakers and see whatt happens.
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OK, located the problem causing the buzz in the RT10. It's the MW8002 driver. Part of the "spider" inside the driver has come loose on one side causing the vibration.
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OK, one more question. I noticed in another thread that someone said you couldand reattach the spider to the housing using a little glue around the edge. Anyone done that? What kind of glue? How far in to you put the glue to make sure it attaches? Since the MW8002 doesnt seem to be availalble anymore, and the spider isn't torn, I'm wondering about DIY repair?
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Good call. I'll grab the screwdriver when I get home tonight and call Polk later today. Thanks!
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Update - Polk folks response -- no MW8002s available, can't help with sub either. Offered to sell me a new sub at "accomodation" price. Still researching possibilities for repairing sub and regluing spider to frame/basket with pliobond or such.