question on crossover upgrade

BKphoto

I have a set of monitor 10b's...my question is this I have read here many times about people replacing the polyswitch with a 0.5 mills resister....the resister is much larger than the polyswitch and I'm not sure how to get it in there...been trying search but can't find a pic of this...would anyone have one or just point me in the right direction....thanks Brent

Conradicles

It is easy. It fits with no problem due to the legs on the resistor being long enough. This is a great upgrade. I will look for one of my pictures...

Conradicles

Welcome to Club Polk by the way!

F1nut

You need two pair of needle nose pliers. Take one and grip the lead where it comes out of the body. This step is important as you do not want to bend the lead too close to the body. Take the other needle nose and carefully bend the lead down 90 degrees, then bend the lead 90 degrees again towards the center of the resistor. Finally, bend the lead down 90 degrees, away from the body. The spacing between the bends will become evident given some thought. Repeat on the other lead. You now have two leads close enough together to fit the holes on the board.

BKphoto

so the resister will be higher than the components around it...?

F1nut

Could be, depends on how you have to space the bends to get it to fit the holes.

Are you upgrading the rest while you're in there? If not, you should.

BKphoto

plus there will be less space once i replace everything else...

all other upgrades are straight forward...

hope someone has a pic....i understand the bends that F1nut is talking about but still unsure of orientation...

BKphoto

it seems that i should put this one in last once i see where everything else lines up..

anyone else have this crossover already modded...?

thanks all...

BKphoto

Conradicles wrote: »

Welcome to Club Polk by the way!

Thanks...

Conradicles

Something like this will work...

BKphoto

do both leads need to be the same length on resisters...? if not maybe i could stand it up....?

problem is the holes are really close together...

Phish56466

If I'm not mistaken man, the poly switch is for tweeter protection only(I ditched it altogether on my dad's M10C's AND my M12's-made them a little brighter). The length on the leads won't matter, as I stated you can ditch it altogether and just use a piece of the lead to jump it out. Downside-you tweeters aren't protected, ergo-you'll need CLEAN POWER! You bypass it and feed them trash, the tweeters WILL GO!

westmassguy

Welcome to CP. The Monitor 10s don't have a lot of Real Estate to work with. I mount all three resistors to the bottom of the board. Just carefully bend and form the leads, starting with the resistor closest to the center, and work your way out.

westmassguy

Another view:

BKphoto

i'm upgrading the tweets to the 194's and really don't want them "too bright"...

BKphoto

westmassguy wrote: »

Welcome to CP. The Monitor 10s don't have a lot of Real Estate to work with. I mount all three resistors to the bottom of the board. Just carefully bend and form the leads, starting with the resistor closest to the center, and work your way out.

how much gap should i leave from the board to the resister when you mount this way...?

westmassguy

BKphoto wrote: »

how much gap should i leave from the board to the resister when you mount this way...?

The resistors lay flat against the board. Keep the leads up and away from the traces as they pass over, until they reach their proper through hole. It's good practice to clean the copper trace around each hole, so your solder will flow easily. When done. clip the leads flush with opposite side. This leaves you plenty of room, if you're going conservative, with Dayton or Solen Caps, but Clarity or Sonicaps will need to be stacked, or an additional riser board installed.

pitdogg2

BKphoto wrote: »

do both leads need to be the same length on resisters...? if not maybe i could stand it up....?

problem is the holes are really close together...

if they legs are long enough yes many have done just that.

westmassguy

The Mills can be mounted upright, there's just enough lead if you make a tight bend at the top. Don't worry about the lead breaking off the Mills, they're all welded construction, and I've done probably 150-200 with tight bends. The Mundorf Mox leads are not long enough however.

PolkieMan

Very nice you saved some money going with the Dayton cap no doubt

westmassguy wrote: »

The Mills can be mounted upright, there's just enough lead if you make a tight bend at the top. Don't worry about the lead breaking off the Mills, they're all welded construction, and I've done probably 150-200 with tight bends. The Mundorf Mox leads are not long enough however.

westmassguy

Thanks Polkieman. Daytons or Solens make fine shunt caps. I prefer to use the same make and grade in the Hi-Pass and Lo-Pass, but Sonicap doesn't make a lesser grade, unlike Clarity. Clarity ESAs and PXs are a good combo. To my ears, the Daytons are pretty neutral in the shunt position. Others may disagree, but when a customer want's to save a few dollars, I always tell them to put the money in the Hi-Pass section. In any event, the Daytons are far superior to NP Electrolytics when used as shunts.