My Custom Speaker Stands

marine5068
marine5068 Posts: 4
edited July 2014 in Custom Fabrication
Custom Fabricated Speaker Stands

Materials:
a) 1/4" thick aluminum plate for 12"x12" bottom plates and for the 6.5"x11" top plates.
b) 2"x4" extruded aluminum angles to make a rectangular vertical tube for the risers.
c) 1/4" thick, peel and stick high density rubber for the isolation pads on top of the speaker base plates and under the floor base plates.
Post edited by marine5068 on

Comments

  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2014
    Kool nice work, where you going to leave them as they are or paint them?

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,228
    edited January 2014
    Fill the tubes up with sand or lead shot..
  • GlennDog
    GlennDog Posts: 3,120
    edited January 2014
    nice work . . .

    Welcome to Club Polk!
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  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited January 2014
    Very nice stands, paint them with flat black paint (spray). I have to agree with the sand filling thing! Metal speaker stands can resonate. I am in the process of building my "wood" speakers stands with material from Home depot (no more than $30)
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • hewlew1
    hewlew1 Posts: 154
    edited January 2014
    Very nice . I built a pair of stands from old planking which I removed from a house that I am redoing. Cost me only about three bucks for 3 cans of black spray paint.
  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited January 2014
    Very nice welding job, I agree fill the risers with sand or shot.
    Home Theater
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  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,756
    edited January 2014
    hewlew1 wrote: »
    Very nice . I built a pair of stands from old planking which I removed from a house that I am redoing. Cost me only about three bucks for 3 cans of black spray paint.

    WHERE DID YOU FIND THE PAINT???? :cheesygrin:
  • jacks2start
    jacks2start Posts: 98
    edited January 2014
  • dbKiller
    dbKiller Posts: 316
    edited January 2014
    When will you be taking orders? I have a set of RT55's that would be at home on those!
    Home Theater: LG 60PB450; Pioneer Elite SC55; RT2000P; RT55P; CS400p; FX500; SVS PB12-Plus/2; PS3 360GB

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  • xjghost
    xjghost Posts: 1,093
    edited January 2014
    Nicely done. I would love to learn aluminum welding.
    HT/2Channel: Emotiva MMC-1, Adcom GFA-555II, Polk SDA 3.1's, Teac TN-300 TT, Polk Center and Sub.

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  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited January 2014
    WHERE DID YOU FIND THE PAINT???? :cheesygrin:

    My initial thought too!
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited May 2014
    I like the stands ! did the heat bend the plates at all ?
    Did you angle the top plate ?
    I wouldnt paint them maybe rattle can some satin clear coat on them ..
  • deafbykhorns
    deafbykhorns Posts: 150
    edited May 2014
    I like the idea about filing with lead or sand, seems like the alum might ring some
    I filed mine with grout
    Main System- Scratch built 2A3 , Lightspeed preamp, Technics SP15/Graham/XV1s,Klipschorns w/ALK xovers/Trachorns, Speakercraft MT8(4), Sonos ZP90, Yamaha Aventage for surround
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  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,047
    edited May 2014
    I would consider bedlining them; gives them a textured finish with durability and grip.
    Shawn
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  • lilylily608
    lilylily608 Posts: 15
    edited May 2014
    thanks for your sharing!
  • Phatattack
    Phatattack Posts: 30
    edited May 2014
    Sick stands! Black anodized and i want a set :)
  • Moose68Bash
    Moose68Bash Posts: 3,843
    edited May 2014
    Great stands! I agree with the black anodized suggestion -- lloks great on aluminum.
    Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.

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  • Sea
    Sea Posts: 317
    edited June 2014
    Very Nice.
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  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited June 2014
    Nice industrial look and probably indestructible.

    Question to all the folks above. Now that the metal is "welded" just how would you fill it with sand or shot? Use a "transporter to beam the material inside?

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

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  • gce
    gce Posts: 2,158
    edited June 2014
    cnh wrote: »
    Nice industrial look and probably indestructible.

    Question to all the folks above. Now that the metal is "welded" just how would you fill it with sand or shot? Use a "transporter to beam the material inside?

    cnh

    Drill a hole in the top! :rolleyes:
    Anaheim Hills CA,
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  • lilylily608
    lilylily608 Posts: 15
    edited July 2014
    I have to agree with the sand filling thing!
  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    edited July 2014
    Long strip of dynamat along the back might help with the ringing if you dont want to fill
  • kdblove_99
    kdblove_99 Posts: 107
    edited July 2014
    I would also paint them
  • strokin
    strokin Posts: 63
    gce wrote: »
    cnh wrote: »
    Nice industrial look and probably indestructible.

    Question to all the folks above. Now that the metal is "welded" just how would you fill it with sand or shot? Use a "transporter to beam the material inside?

    cnh

    Drill a hole in the top! :rolleyes:

    I was thinking the same thing.
  • ThomasD
    ThomasD Posts: 260
    Just found this thread and had to resurrect it . I'm stoked 'cause this is exactly what I've been contemplating to use to make stands for my 7's. I can't weld to save my life but I have a friend who is an incredible aluminum welder, it's his profession. Just wanted to check to see if there was anymore information / conclusions about mass filling or finishing the aluminum.
    marine5068 wrote: »
    Custom Fabricated Speaker Stands

    Materials:
    a) 1/4" thick aluminum plate for 12"x12" bottom plates and for the 6.5"x11" top plates.
    b) 2"x4" extruded aluminum angles to make a rectangular vertical tube for the risers.
    c) 1/4" thick, peel and stick high density rubber for the isolation pads on top of the speaker base plates and under the floor base plates.

    Carver M4.0t, M1.0t, M200t, TX2, C1, C2, Marantz 2230, 2010, 4070, 1030, APPJ 2013, Rega Brio, Marantz Imperial 7's, Klipsch Heresy III, Quartets, KG4's, KG1's, 'The Sixes', R-12SW, Polk SDA 2a's, Monitor 7cTL's, SDA CRS's, 4a's, Zu Audio Dirty Weekends, Pro-ject Acryl TT, Cambridge 851N, 351C, Panamax 5300PM
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,532
    You definitely do not want rubber pads between the stand and floor. Spikes are the name of the game there.
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