What glue to use
polklifer
Posts: 40
Hi all, am wanting to re-glue the magnets on my SRS 3.1's, and was wondering what the glue of choice here is. Is Gorilla glue an acceptable solution?
Thank you
Thank you
Post edited by polklifer on
Comments
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Although I've not tried it, some have used JB Weld. It's a little more money, but for metal to metal bonding, it's good stuff.
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Gorilla urethane glue should be used for wood products only. Some use JB Weld or other forms of Epoxy. I use Loctite Power Grab Clear Acrylic Adhesive. Put a bead on the top and bottom of the magnet assembly, smooth it out with your finger tip, wipe off any excess, and let it dry for a couple hours. Cleanup with soap and water. Very professional looking when completed.
Mike, The front and back plates are metal, however the magnets are ceramic.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I have not used it in this application, but jb weld does work great also look at pc7. After curing this stuff is stuck foreverMy New Year's resolution is 3840 × 2160
Family Room| Marantz AV7704| Usher Dancer Mini - 2 DMD Mains |Usher Dancer Mini-x DMD's Surrounds | Usher BE-616 DMD Center | SVS Ultra Rear Surrounds | Parasound Halo A21 | Parsound Halo A52+ | MIT Shotgun S3's | Dual SVS SB 4000 Ultras | Oppo UDP 203 | Directv Genie HD DVR | Samsung 75" Q8 QLED | PSAudio Stellar GCD | Mytek Brooklyn DAC+ | Lumin U1 Mini | HP Elite Slice PC | ROON'd for life |
ManCave: HT:Polk LSiM 706VR3 LSiM 703's LSiM 702's|| Marantz AV7002 AV PrePro Sunfire TGA-7401| Sony PS4 Pro| Sony PS4 Pro|SVS PB13 Ultra| Oppo UDP 203 | Music Hall MMF 5.3se TT w/ Soundsmith Carmen | Samsung 55" SUHD TV | Sony PS4
Patio | Polk Atrium 8's | Yamaha R-N303BL |
Office BlueSound Node| KEF LS50 | Peactree Nova 125SE |
Bedroom | Focal 905's | Chromecast Audio |
Garage | Polk Monitor 5B's
Closet Yamaha M80 | 2 Polk MP3K subs| Yaqin MC100B with Shuguang Treasures KT 88's & CV181Z's | Tesla E83CC's | Marantz 2252B | Marantz 2385 |Polk SDA SRS 2.3 | LSiM 705's | -
Thanks all, I am going to use JB weld, I will post pics of the process if anyone is interested
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Are the magnets STILL ATTACHED to the rest of the speaker?
If not, epoxy is not the proper product. -
Are the magnets STILL ATTACHED to the rest of the speaker?
If not, epoxy is not the proper product.
Not sure what you mean, but I've used JB Weld and it works great. I've used both the stuff that comes in two tubes that you mix, and the putty that you knead together to mix the two parts. The latter is very strong, but perhaps not quite as strong as the former."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
westmassguy wrote: »Gorilla urethane glue should be used for wood products only. Some use JB Weld or other forms of Epoxy. I use Loctite Power Grab Clear Acrylic Adhesive. Put a bead on the top and bottom of the magnet assembly, smooth it out with your finger tip, wipe off any excess, and let it dry for a couple hours. Cleanup with soap and water. Very professional looking when completed.
Mike, The front and back plates are metal, however the magnets are ceramic.
I also use the Loctite Power Grab for just about everything, reattaching side panels on SDA cabs. resealing interior seams in the cabs. I guess I need to apply some to the driver magnets also. -
Are the magnets STILL ATTACHED to the rest of the speaker?
If not, epoxy is not the proper product.
If the magnet and pole piece are still attached to a working speaker, epoxy may be a suitable product to keep the magnet and pole-piece in place.drumminman wrote: »Not sure what you mean, but I've used JB Weld and it works great. I've used both the stuff that comes in two tubes that you mix, and the putty that you knead together to mix the two parts. The latter is very strong, but perhaps not quite as strong as the former.
If the magnet or the pole piece has already separated (non-functioning speaker driver) there are WAY better adhesives to put the thing back together with. -
It works great, and the end result is very neat and professional looking. JB Weld and Epoxies can get messy.Mike Reeter wrote: »I also use the Loctite Power Grab for just about everything, reattaching side panels on SDA cabs. resealing interior seams in the cabs. I guess I need to apply some to the driver magnets also.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Gorilla urethane glue should be used for wood products only.
I know what you are saying, so don't take this wrong. IMO, Gorilla glue should never be used for any reason.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Oh I agree Jesse, it's unpredictable and makes a mess.I know what you are saying, so don't take this wrong. IMO, Gorilla glue should never be used for any reason.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks all, I am going to use JB weld, I will post pics of the process if anyone is interested
Yes I'm interested in mods-by-numbers. If I ever start doing this stuff myself, Lord knows I'll need all the help I can get.Main HT (family room): Polk Monitor 7 (1987-original owner) (L/R) / CSi40 (C) / RTi38 (SL/SR) / SVS 20-39PC (sub), Outlaw 975 pre/pro / Outlaw 7075 amp, Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray, LG 42LM5800 teevee
2ch (family room): CRS+ (1987), Outlaw 1050 AVR, Denon DCM-420 CD
Kitchen satellite 2ch: Polk M3II, Topping TP-20 Tripath amp fed from 975 rec line out
Home office: Model 5 (1978-Danish Peerless), Lepai 2020A+ Tripath amp fed by laptop dock
Awaiting assignment: PSW202 (NIB) to be wired inline in home office rig; Monitor 5JR (1988), Model 4 (1983-US Peerless) -
A tip on JB Weld.
I mix up a speakers worth at a time and load it into a medical syringe. Then heat it in hot water (don't let any water get into the tip where the glue will come out). It comes out fluid enough to make a very smooth and nice bead. But only do a little at a time. The heating causes a quicker cure. -
I mix up enough to do one driver at a time and apply it with a small wood shim. I wipe off any excess with a clean paper towel. Probably not as neat as the syringe method, but you're not going to see it and that driver is not going to experience magnet shift short of taking an RPG direct hit
"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
If you want the magnets to stay put forever, use epoxy. I've seen acrylics fail on metals before.Denon PMA-900V
Linn Axis with Grado Red
Cambridge Azur 650C
Polk SDA-1BTL -
Not all acrylics are created equal. I chose Loctite Power Grab because it bonds to ceramic, which the magnets are made from, and non-corrosive metals. The front and back plates of the magnet assembly are made of cadmium plated steel, which should never corrode in a sealed cabinet. It's also silicone free, unlike most other acrylics. If applied correctly, when you smooth it out with your finger tip, the product is pushed into the small gap between the plates and the magnet. It's difficult to accomplish that with epoxy.I've seen acrylics fail on metals before.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »If applied correctly, when you smooth it out with your finger tip, the product is pushed into the small gap between the plates and the magnet. It's difficult to accomplish that with epoxy.
I had no issues - don a pair of disposable rubber gloves and it's easy to work it into the gaps. I like the JB Weld because it provides a stronger bond, though the Loctite is probably strong enough.
I do like the Power Grab for other applications, such as resealing the insides of speaker cabs. Has almost no VOC's so outgassing is not a problem for delicate parts like MW's and tweeters."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Power grab should be great on wood inside the cabinet. When I built my house the trim carpenters used it on the ends of the pieces of crown mounding where they joined together. Nine years latter there still are no cracks in the paint in the corners.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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I've shipped several pairs of speakers across the country, and the Loctite held perfectly. In one case, one of the magnets shifted when the speakers were sent to me. A replacement driver was installed, and the other 3 received the Loctite.drumminman wrote: »I had no issues - don a pair of disposable rubber gloves and it's easy to work it into the gaps. I like the JB Weld because it provides a stronger bond, though the Loctite is probably strong enough.
I do like the Power Grab for other applications, such as resealing the insides of speaker cabs. Has almost no VOC's so outgassing is not a problem for delicate parts like MW's and tweeters.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Use Loctite red.
Gorilla glue is only for fixing gorillas.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
If by Loctite Red you are referring to the Loctite thread locker I think it would be a bad choice for sealing magnets or cabinets. It is intended to only work in the absance of air and would not harden properly smeared on the outside of the magnet.Use Loctite red.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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If by Loctite Red you are referring to the Loctite thread locker I think it would be a bad choice for sealing magnets or cabinets. It is intended to only work in the absance of air and would not harden properly smeared on the outside of the magnet.
Between plate and magnet. I mean when magnet is off the plate completely.
For reinforcement from outside, JB weld or other epoxy is good.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
OK, that would probably work. Sorry I misunderstood what you meant.Between plate and magnet. I mean when magnet is off the plate completely.
For reinforcement from outside, JB weld or other epoxy is good.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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My bad is I didn't read all the posts so went by re-glue magnets on the 1st post and ****-u-me that magnets are off.OK, that would probably work. Sorry I misunderstood what you meant.
If magnets are still attached and it's just to avoid future shift magnets, epoxy is the way to go.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
