How do you take apart an LSiM speaker?

madmax
madmax Posts: 12,434
edited December 2013 in Speakers
I want to take a look inside, what is the procedure to get them apart?
Vinyl, the final frontier...

Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
Post edited by madmax on
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  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    edited December 2013
    Circular saw?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,634
    edited December 2013
    ummm if it were me I'd use a screw driver......THEN work up to a sawsall
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,454
    edited December 2013
    nbrowser wrote: »
    In all seriousness, the Polk website if I recall has some cut away pics in the LSiM product pages, save yourself the work and possibly damaging a great speaker.

    I think this is the best advice... they are build to withstand the prying eyes of mere mortals.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • seabeerob213
    seabeerob213 Posts: 1,843
    edited December 2013
    a jump to the left, then a step to the right, put your hands on your hips, and bend your knees in time, and then a pelvic thrust,


    pretty sure thats the method the pros use, FYI: it really drives you insane
    2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know :)"WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
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  • Loud & Clear
    Loud & Clear Posts: 1,538
    edited December 2013
    Recently had to do this as I bought a 703 that came with a defective tweeter. The figure 8 rubber piece comes off first - I used a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry back a section and then pulled the whole thing off with my fingers. After that it's just a matter of unscrewing things until you get what you you're after.

    Two Channel Setup:

    Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 2-3
    Integrated Amp: Krell S-300i
    DAC: Arcam irDac
    Source: iMac
    Remote Control: iPad Mini

    3.2 Home Theater Setup:

    Fronts: Klipsch RP-160M
    Center: Klipsch RP-160M
    Subwoofer: SVS PB12NSD (X 2)
    AVR: Yamaha Aventage RX-A2030
    Blu Ray: Sony BDP-S790
    TV Source: DirecTV Genie
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,326
    edited December 2013
    The best way to open them up, is with a good amp..

    ;-)
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,634
    edited December 2013
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    The best way to open them up, is with a good amp..

    ;-)

    Now this would be the BEST answer...EVER!!!!
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited December 2013
    Shotgun.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,834
    edited December 2013
    seabeerob213 wrote: »
    a jump to the left, then a step to the right, put your hands on your hips, and bend your knees in time, and then a pelvic thrust,


    pretty sure thats the method the pros use, FYI: it really drives you insane

    Great Scott!

    Good advice there...
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
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  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited December 2013
    Loud & Clear wrote: »
    Recently had to do this as I bought a 703 that came with a defective tweeter. The figure 8 rubber piece comes off first - I used a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry back a section and then pulled the whole thing off with my fingers. After that it's just a matter of unscrewing things until you get what you you're after.

    Thanks for the info! Is there any particular place where prying would be the safest?
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
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  • JuanR
    JuanR Posts: 718
    edited December 2013
    LSiM 704C.JPG


    Ship the LSiM of your choice (the one you want to have opened) to yourself using one of our wonderful mail carriers (they all will be able to accomplish this act)....

    Inspect upon receipt...

    It couldn't get easier than that!
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,767
    edited December 2013
    LSiM-703

    Plastic spoon/fork -

    Midbass/Pry from the outside inwards, middle of gasket, will come off easy

    Tweeter/Midrange - I pried very carefully under the midrange surround, the rubber is adhered on. There is a white piece behind it that has approx. 8 hidden screws that hold everything on.

    There is a crossover at the top and bottom.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,767
    edited December 2013
    JuanR wrote: »
    LSiM 704C.JPG


    Ship the LSiM of your choice (the one you want to have opened) to yourself using one of our wonderful mail carriers (they all will be able to accomplish this act)....

    Inspect upon receipt...

    It couldn't get easier than that!

    Now that is impressive, but not out of this world - my LSiM had some inside pieces that had come loose during shipment
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited December 2013
    madmax wrote: »
    Thanks for the info! Is there any particular place where prying would be the safest?

    If these are like other Polk speakers from recent years, they are designed to be assembled quick and easy. So that would me that they should be easy to dissasemble. The "beauty rings" that the LSiM are become more and more common. Most are just press/lock fit and are easy to remove. If you don't have on, get yourseld a plastic/nylon pry bar like these used in this kit:


    41ZdxbK3N8L._SY300_.jpg

    Can find them cheap on eBay, Amazon, or a local store.
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,767
    edited December 2013
    The LSiM is not what I would call an easy speaker to mess with... the top beauty ring is adhered on but it is a strong rubber
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • smglbrth
    smglbrth Posts: 1,481
    edited December 2013
    dorokusai wrote: »
    Shotgun.

    Best idea so far...
    Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me
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  • Loud & Clear
    Loud & Clear Posts: 1,538
    edited December 2013
    Best not to blow a tweeter on these if you can avoid it. Mine came with a damaged tweeter. Unpleasant to replace. Wiring is very short and this makes for very difficult working conditions. I had to use a phillips head drill bit to screw the tweeter into its bracket with my fingers. Not ideal.

    Two Channel Setup:

    Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 2-3
    Integrated Amp: Krell S-300i
    DAC: Arcam irDac
    Source: iMac
    Remote Control: iPad Mini

    3.2 Home Theater Setup:

    Fronts: Klipsch RP-160M
    Center: Klipsch RP-160M
    Subwoofer: SVS PB12NSD (X 2)
    AVR: Yamaha Aventage RX-A2030
    Blu Ray: Sony BDP-S790
    TV Source: DirecTV Genie
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  • drummer86
    drummer86 Posts: 441
    edited December 2013
    DSkip wrote: »
    Throw it against the wall.
    deronb1 wrote: »
    Circular saw?
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    ummm if it were me I'd use a screw driver......THEN work up to a sawsall
    dorokusai wrote: »
    Shotgun.

    Is it just me or is everyone around here especially ornery lately? Loving these responses!
    Display: LG 47" LCD | AVR: Marantz SR5005 | BD: Panasonic BDT-210 | CD/SACD: Oppo 980 |
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,313
    edited December 2013
    VR3 wrote: »
    The LSiM is not what I would call an easy speaker to mess with... the top beauty ring is adhered on but it is a strong rubber

    Maybe they were trying to make them VR3 proof
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
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    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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