Parasound HCA-800II Help

skrol

I had started using my C/PT-600 and HCA-800 to drive a pair of LSi15 and noticed a slight buzzing sound. It may have been there driving the RTA11TL's but I hadn't noticed. Anyway, I took them out of the system to check them and now the HCA-800 just goes to protect mode (standby red light on) even with no load. One problem is that I can't find a service manual or schematic for this particular version of the HCA-800II. HiFi Engine has one but it is a little different and is the same that Parasound sent to me.

Anyone have any ideas how to start trouble shooting?
Thanks
Stan

tonyb

First order of business would be to pop the top and see what you can see. Blown fuses, loose wires, anything burnt up, leaking caps. If you can't see anything or have little skills in soldering, then a trip to the repair shop may be in order.

skrol

Should have added that I popped the lid and saw no crispy components, no obvious leaky caps.

I was trained years ago in mil-spec soldering and have a background in electronics and love to DIY. So I want to try and fix my self.

skrol

It isn't as bad as I thought. The amp is still functioning. I got to thinking that if the relay switches then it should play, and it does. The relay is rather reluctant to switch so I suspect an issue with the drive circuit for that relay which may also cause the LED to stay red.

soundfreak1

Have had several parasounds they do have an issue with output relays. Usually just get noisy and just open but call parasound service. They have allways been very helpfull and will prob still have those relays in stock and can help you trouble shoot the unit. Still have an 800ll and will check for a service manual. Might be at my techs house.

skrol

Soundfreak1, Thanks I appreciate the advice. If you have the SM that would be great.
Stan

Phasewolf

Relays are a fairly high failular part in those amps. Last I have read the relay that fits in that spot is no longer around so you may need to sub it out but that should not be a issue. Also some places may have some new old stock if the part really is discontinued.

skrol

Incredible company. Today (Sunday), Tony from Parasound emailed me saying, "try replacing capacitor C005".

If anyone is in need, I attached a schematic for an HCA-800II that Parasound sent to me.

If it truns out to be the relay, it shouldn't be too hard to substitute.

drumiv

Tony's the man at Parasound. If the relay is the same as the 2200II, the don't have them. I think I bought the last set. My tech just talked with Tony yesterday, and there is a way around it. Good luck.

skrol

Tony was spot-on with the cap (C005). I replaced it last night and the relay clicks right over and the light is GREEN.

I started checking and replacing other electrolytic caps on that board and found them to be heading out of spec. I think I'll go through the entire unit and replace all the electrolytics. I also found a crack in the pc board near the bridge rectifier that had been somewhat repaired. I bridged the traces with solid copper wire as the traces carry power. I want to find some adhesive to apply to the top to give mechanical strength.

I think I have a new brand favorite with Parasound.

Stan

chrisfgee

Thanks for the schematic. My son can solder but we've never done a project like this. Do you just take the top and bottom cover off? Seems like getting the board out would require too much disassembly. Thanks.

F1nut

BartDaws wrote: »

bottom cover hm that would be mighty convenient

Are you on drugs?

skrol

It has been a while since I did this but I believe you can leave the board in and just remove the top and bottom covers.

chrisfgee

Thanks for the advice. Will let you know how it goes.

chrisfgee

We replaced the capacitor and it still stays in standby mode. There was mention of a relay that goes bad and there is a workaround as it's not made anymore. Anyone have details on this? Thanks

skrol

When I was first having issues I thought it might be the relay. I don't think I found a direct replacement but was looking at ones with similar specs that I could make work even if it meant mounting it off the board.