Thinking About Making New Wire Harness for 2.3TL's
drumminman
Posts: 3,396
Does any one know how much wire is needed per speaker? I know Ray bought 80 feet of GO-4 for his 1.2TL's, and I'm sure the 2.3TL's require somewhat less.
Thanks!
Fred
Thanks!
Fred
"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
Post edited by drumminman on
Comments
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Not sure exactly Fred, but you can figure 4 fewer drivers and 2 fewer tweeters. That alone should cut down the wire amount needed by probably 12-15 feet (that's probably conservatively estimated amounts). If you buy 70 feet of wire, you will definately be fine. You may end up with 10 feet of extra cable, but at least you will definately have enough.
What wire are you thinking of using?
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
The Go-4 Ray used is a little out of my budget, so thinking of 2 lengths of teflon OCC solid copper 18 awg per speaker terminal (4 wires per speaker), which would be 15 awg. Planning on moving everything over to Gimpod's boards at the same time."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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Which brand Fred? Even better than teflon, I would recommend the Venhaus (VHAudio) unicrystal Airlock wire. I used it for the signal wiring in my DAC. GREAT stuff. It may be more expensive than the wire you are looking at, but it'll be worth it..... Link below:
http://www.vhaudio.com/wire.html
Just checked the price for 35 feet of the red and 35 feet of the green colored 18 AWG Airlock OCC and the total comes to $258.30. Not too bad (less than the Go-4 for certain).
Edit: Ooops, I forgot you are doing 2 lengths of each color to get an equivalent 15 AWG. So, you would need to to double the price. That would make it $516.60. That's starting to add up now isn't it..... Still good wire though.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
That looks like good stuff, but the price puts it in the same category as the GO-4. I'm thinking about the solid FEP just below it. With his price breaks it comes to $1.93/ft for 100 ft or more. I'm guessing I'll need around 120' = ~ $230.
Also thinking of making some braided DIY speaker wire out of this, sort of a litz configuration."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Not sure exactly Fred, but you can figure 4 fewer drivers and 2 fewer tweeters. That alone should cut down the wire amount needed by probably 12-15 feet (that's probably conservatively estimated amounts). If you buy 70 feet of wire, you will definately be fine. You may end up with 10 feet of extra cable, but at least you will definately have enough.
Found Quadzilla's post in which he modded his 2.3TL's including making a new wiring harness. 30 feet per speaker is what he used, with a little left over."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
drumminman wrote: »Found Quadzilla's post in which he modded his 2.3TL's including making a new wiring harness. 30 feet per speaker is what he used, with a little left over.
Excellent! I completely forgot about quadzilla's moding of the wiring harness. Glad you found an answer. I have not built up the will to do this mod yet. I am interestd in your thoughts on the audio after you complete it.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
Hey Fred I think your going to find that using "solid core" verse "stranded core" is going to be a pain, it going to be alot stiffer, harder to work, put alot more strain on the driver & tweeter connectors etc..., plus you do know that "solid core" has more resistance (i.e. inductance) than "stranded core" wire of the same gauge.
JMO ~ Tony“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain