Dynamat-ing

drumiv
drumiv Posts: 171
edited October 2013 in Vintage Speakers
I am slowly starting to warm up to the idea of modding my new-to-me SDA SRS's. I've had them for a month or 2 now, so I know the sound. I got the new tweeters, and am thinking about the Dynamat/ JB Weld mod to the mids/base drivers. There're sure are quite a few choices as far as size and amount for the Dynamat. Which is the best choice for what I'm about to do? Thanks in advance.
Post edited by drumiv on

Comments

  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited October 2013
    I used the Dynamat Extreme and a believe that is what is recommended. Check ou this site, http://vr3mods.com/LCSDAUpgrade.php
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • heartystatue
    heartystatue Posts: 329
    edited October 2013
    ^^^^ What he said^^^^^^^ I ordered mine at O Reilly auto parts and got it the same day.
    HT: LSI15, LSIC, LSIFX, Emo XPA-3:biggrin: Onkyo TXNR809, Sony BDP-S500, PannyDMP-BDT320, MIT S1 SC. Mit 73842dlp
    2ch: SDA-SRS 2.3 Fully modded. BAT VK500 w/batpak, BAT VK5I, Essence HDACC.
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,526
    edited October 2013
    Here is a less expensive alternative that I have used in cars, and I'm planning to do some speakers once the weather takes a turn - http://www.fatmat.com

    Good luck!
  • zingo
    zingo Audiophile Posts: 11,255
    edited October 2013
    I like the 110mil GTmat.
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2013
    +1 on the Fatmat. A bit cheaper and for all intents and purposes it's the same thing. Comes with a roller, disposable knife and in different thicknesses too.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited October 2013
    Thanks for the info. How much is needed? Do you have to cover all surfaces completely?
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,766
    edited October 2013
    The cheapest place I've found is eBay. The "wedge pack" is 4 sq ft, around $25.00 shipping included, and will do the smaller SDAs with a bit to spare, so your SRSs will need two kits, or the "trunk" kit, 20 sq ft, $90.00, which is most likely too much.
    Some say you don't have to cover every sq inch, but I prefer to err on the side of caution, and cover every part of the basket, except the lip down by the flange. The first time I Dynamatted, I did the lip, and because it increases the diameter of the basket frame, the drivers wouldn't fit in the holes. Lesson learned. I use paper plates or jar lids as patterns. For the woofers, I cut a doughnut shaped piece, then cut the doughnut in half and slide it under the magnet. The "spokes" can be cut from the scraps left over from the round cutouts. I then use the back side of a 1" wood chisel to smooth out the Dynamat, making sure I have 100% contact, and also use it to round over any sharp edges. Be sure to cut out the center hole in the PRs, otherwise you'll change the T/S parameters.
    For gluing the magnet assemblies, I switched to Loctite Power Grab, clear acrylic adhesive instead of JB Weld or epoxy. It's easier to work with, dries clear, and cleans up with soap and water.

    100_1139.JPG
    100_1137.JPG
    100_1138.JPG
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited October 2013
    ^^Very nice and neat job^^
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,766
    edited October 2013
    zane77 wrote: »
    ^^Very nice and neat job^^
    Thanks zane
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,160
    edited October 2013
    zane77 wrote: »
    ^^Very nice and neat job^^
    +1 to what he said.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,766
    edited October 2013
    TennMan wrote: »
    +1 to what he said.
    Thanks Ronnie
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited October 2013
    Thanks, again, WMG. That looks like the way to go. Are you gluing the magnets directly to the Dynamat? I'm a little apprehensive about doing the magnets for fear of f..ing up the voice coils. Is there need to worry?
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,766
    edited October 2013
    drumiv wrote: »
    Thanks, again, WMG. That looks like the way to go. Are you gluing the magnets directly to the Dynamat? I'm a little apprehensive about doing the magnets for fear of f..ing up the voice coils. Is there need to worry?
    You don't remove them, you just put a bead of glue around the front and back edge of the magnet. They're already glued in place, this is just a precautionary measure. The glue they used back then deteriorates or becomes brittle. This prevents the magnets from shifting.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited October 2013
    Gotcha, I was hoping that was the case. Thanks yet again.
  • Easy Runnin
    Easy Runnin Posts: 492
    edited October 2013
    Just to clarify. I don't think it's necessarry to dynamat the magnets. You dynamate the baskets and you glue the magnets.
    HT- Samsung PN50B860/Integra DTR 30.3/Rt55 Fronts
    Rt35i Surrounds/Cs1000p Center/SVS BP1000 Sub
    2CH - B&K MC-101 pre/B&K EX-442 amp/NAD 2400 amp
    Polk SDA1C, Polk Monitor 7, New Large Advents and Polk RTA 8T
    BR - Yamaha CR800/Polk monitor 5
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited October 2013
    My understanding about magnet shift is that it is primarily an issue when moving the speakers, which is why the advice I've read here has been to lay the speaker on it's back whenever you're moving it so that the drivers are pointed straight up, in order to stop the magnet from wanting to shift downward during travel. Is this not the case? Is it possible for the magnet to shift on a driver during normal use of the speaker?
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,766
    edited October 2013
    nspindel wrote: »
    My understanding about magnet shift is that it is primarily an issue when moving the speakers, which is why the advice I've read here has been to lay the speaker on it's back whenever you're moving it so that the drivers are pointed straight up, in order to stop the magnet from wanting to shift downward during travel. Is this not the case? Is it possible for the magnet to shift on a driver during normal use of the speaker?
    The magnets can shift if the speakers are handled roughly, dropped, fall over, or receive a sharp blow etc.
    Since we all buy them used, god knows how they were handled before.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited October 2013
    The Wedge pack is also at Amazon, that's what I bought as well. Did a pair of 1C's and my 4.1's with that pack, with some left over.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020CAVA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,918
    edited October 2013
    I got my sheet and some scraps from an auto audio installation shop for free.They had just done a car trunk and had all pictured just laying around .I did pay for the squares but returned them because I had way more than I needed. Also shown was a later C/L purchase of Black Hole-5 of a square and scraps all for $18 and enough for the backs of my 2Bs
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • drumiv
    drumiv Posts: 171
    edited October 2013
    What's "Black Hole-5", and what's it used for?
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2013
    drumiv wrote: »
    What's "Black Hole-5", and what's it used for?

    Black Hole 5 is an acoustic foam that enhances the properties of the polyfill stuffing in your speakers. It partially absorbs mid and low frequencies inside the cabinets so they don't reflect to the back side of the MW's interfering with movement of the cone.

    When the stuff is applied properly (not to much, not too little) it cleans up congestion in the mid range, allowing the speakers to sound clearer no matter what volume you play them at.

    Do a search - there are several posts about it including how to install it.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited October 2013
    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?148092-Improvements-To-The-SDA-SRS-1.2TL-Summary-Of-Modifications

    This thread should explain all the mod's, good luck with some very fun projects
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,918
    edited October 2013
    Drumiv, I to was so new to the SDA line that I had 0 idea what these guys were talking about . D/L THE SDA Handbook .It gives all the liniage of the product, pictures of every speaker set and their nominclachure since they do not use names and all the techincal facts, parts lists and reasoning and the science of the design.Me,w/ my distorted logic never thought a pristine pair of originally $12/$1,300 speakers could get better but trust me it does and I still don't know what I'm talking about but the evidence is in hearing the things.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited October 2013
    You can also use Sonic Barrier. I used it with my 4.1TL's and like it a lot.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • MAD
    MAD Posts: 105
    I know this is an old thread, but I'm about to dynamat my sda 2.3.

    Should you dynamat the inside of the speaker spokes as well (obviously starting part way down to make sure the speaker won't hit it)?

    I was thinking that sound would reflect off the spokes and back to the speaker cone.

    Thanks for any input or advice.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,483
    No, do the outer surface only.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk