Same drivers?
drumiv
Posts: 171
I'm just curious here. I have 2 sets of M-4's, the drivers look just like the drivers in my SDA's. Are they the same? On a side note, I was surprised at how good they sound.
Post edited by drumiv on
Comments
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The majority of Monitor 4s used MW6502 woofers which are 4 ohm (the early 4s with the Peerless Tweeters may have 8 ohm drivers). The SDAs used 8 ohm drivers, and there are many different 8 ohm drivers, depending on which SDA model you have.I'm just curious here. I have 2 sets of M-4's, the drivers look just like the drivers in my SDA's. Are they the same? On a side note, I was surprised at how good they sound.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Check the schematics/ parts lists in the stickies.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
Pull a driver out and look at the label on the back; should be clearly marked as to driver #."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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I was trying to avoid pulling drivers. That day will come soon enough. Just curious. Thanks for the replies.
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Why?I was trying to avoid pulling drivers.
All of the vintage Polk MW drivers look the same. Every pair of Monitors, RTAs, SDAs, all of them.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Simple, you start taking things apart, bad things can happen. It's one thing to f... something up while doing a repair, but another if doing it for the hell of it(or curiosity, in this case).
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Pulling drivers is not difficult. Your MW's have two wires connected to them with push on quick connects. To read the label you probably don't even have to disconnect the wires, just pull the driver out enough to see the label.
When you put the drivers back in and tighten the screws just don't over do it. The screws are only going into MDF, so if you over torque you can strip the hole. In fact that's one of the recommended mods: either Larry's rings or Hurricane nuts and cap head screws, so the screws are going into metal inserts. Also more solidly couples the MW's to the front baffle."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
