Monitor 7 mods

Easy Runnin
Easy Runnin Posts: 501
edited September 2013 in Vintage Speakers
I’m planning on modifying my monitor 7s in the near future and have a couple questions:
1) How many hurricane nuts per speaker? 12 or 16? Do you use them on the crossover openings?
2) What do you do if you break a standoff on the crossovers? Where can I get a couple spares?
3) Do you think it is a good idea to bypass the fuse?
4) Will it make much of a difference if I just leave the original binding post? I’m currently using banana plugs. They slide in easier then they do on my other speakers.
Thanks for the help.
HT- Samsung PN50B860/Integra DTR 30.3/Rt55 Fronts
Rt35i Surrounds/Cs1000p Center/SVS BP1000 Sub
2CH - B&K MC-101 pre/B&K EX-442 amp/NAD 2400 amp
Polk SDA1C, Polk Monitor 7, New Large Advents and Polk RTA 8T
BR - Yamaha CR800/Polk monitor 5
Post edited by Easy Runnin on
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Comments

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited September 2013
    Easy Runnin wrote: »
    1) How many hurricane nuts per speaker? 12 or 16? Do you use them on the crossover openings?
    Count the number of screws the speakers have to attach all the drivers, and you will need that many. You don't need to do the binding post cup.
    Easy Runnin wrote: »
    2) What do you do if you break a standoff on the crossovers? Where can I get a couple spares?
    You can try calling Polk customer service and I bet they have them, or can point you toward a distributor.
    Easy Runnin wrote: »
    3) Do you think it is a good idea to bypass the fuse?
    Only if you aren't going to over-drive your speakers by clipping your amp.
    Easy Runnin wrote: »
    4) Will it make much of a difference if I just leave the original binding post? I’m currently using banana plugs. They slide in easier then they do on my other speakers.
    I prefer a different binding post as copper or silver will be more conductive, but you may have to drill out the original holes on the binding post cups.
    Jake
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,644
    edited September 2013
    If they don't have the stand offs I have plenty.

    send me your address and I will drop some in the mail no charge.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited September 2013
    On my Monitor 7's I bypassed the fuse and it made the tweeters (original Peerless) very bright. I had to add back in a 1 ohm resistor across the fuse holder to get the tweeters to settle back down.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
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  • StantonZ
    StantonZ Posts: 444
    edited September 2013
    dkg999 wrote: »
    On my Monitor 7's I bypassed the fuse and it made the tweeters (original Peerless) very bright. I had to add back in a 1 ohm resistor across the fuse holder to get the tweeters to settle back down.

    I replaced the polyfuse on my Monitor 10's with a 0.5 Ohm resistor and think it sounds great. A good piece a data here is the polyfuses I replaced measure anywhere from 1.0 -> 1.7 Ohms (and they attenuated the high frequencies too much).
    Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)
    Polk CS300 center channel
    Analog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1
    Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-Ray
    Bedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets
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  • Michael8it
    Michael8it Posts: 192
    edited September 2013
    I removed the fuses completely from my RTA 12b's - I am not overdriving them so that is not a concern to me. Definitely noticed a much cleaner top end!
    Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited September 2013
    dkg999 wrote: »
    On my Monitor 7's I bypassed the fuse and it made the tweeters (original Peerless) very bright. I had to add back in a 1 ohm resistor across the fuse holder to get the tweeters to settle back down.
    That's odd. Usually the fuse adds little in the way of resistance.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited September 2013
    westmassguy wrote: »
    That's odd. Usually the fuse adds little in the way of resistance.

    I agree. I only had some spare 1 ohm Mills resistors on hand, so a lesser value may of worked better.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
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