Rt3000 sub buzz
dbartol1
Posts: 46
Hello, i have a 2 pairs of rt3000 speakers. One of the four has a soft buzz coming from the lower section ( the bass unit/amp). I have swapped out the lower portions between outlets and speaker wires and the buzz follows the one bass/amp. The speaker overall seems to work fine. Powerful bass and nice sound. Thoughts? Fixes?
Thanks!
Darrin
Thanks!
Darrin
Post edited by dbartol1 on
Comments
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I didnt check but will look at those. Are they easy to replace? Expensive?
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I checked the two big caps. Both had mild bulging and one had some corrosion, looked like rust.
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They need to be replaced. I could only find Panasonic versions of them and they were about $10 per + shipping. I can't remember where I got them, but they are 15,000 uF IIRC.____________________________________________________________
polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050 -
I have the same problem and took it in to get looked at and the coil is shot.
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I have the same problem and took it in to get looked at and the coil is shot.2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
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They told me the voice coil was cooked it would have to be recoiled.
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It does the same thing you described low level buzz / distortion but sounds good at higher levels and bass still hits great. With the speaker on take off cover and push on foam or speaker and you will really hear it or at least that's what mine does.
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It does the same thing you described low level buzz / distortion but sounds good at higher levels and bass still hits great. With the speaker on take off cover and push on foam or speaker and you will really hear it or at least that's what mine does.
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You guys should buy any replacements you can find. There is a guy on eBay that is trying to sell just the sub towers locally. I emailed him and mentioned that if he does not get any bids that he might be able to get more money by selling the unit in pieces if his prices are not crazy.
Anyway, I have no idea how long I plan to keep mine but I started to look around for a driver that had similar parameters. The parameters are posted on Vr3 mods: http://www.vr3mods.com/LCRT3000PTS.html I was suprised when I ran accross an old friend in the Peerless SLS 830667 driver. I played with these awhile back, was going to build a 3-way front stage in my car with these as dedicated midbasses. Anyway, they make great midbasses and by looking at the specs(Low Le numbers, etc) compared to the Polks, I can see why many like the tighness of both these drivers for lower midbass/upper sub bass. As far the latter, will have to play with the port as well as deal with the Ohm difference but....if mine go bad and I can't find replacements, I might give the SLS drivers a try.2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
Thanks all.
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Here is how I made out:
I called Polk to try and order a pair of capacitors for the RT3000 amp. I was told they will not sell individual components for the amp. They suggested Parts Express, but PE did not have any. So I located a company online called Tedss.com. $10 each + shipping. Arrived within a couple days. After researching how to solder on YouTube I removed the old capacitors and put the new ones in. Put everything back together and doubled checked my work against the pictures I took. I held my breath, plugged her in, and to my amazement...it worked perfectly. No more buzz. Thanks all. I wouldn't have known about this problem without your help.
P.S. - For anyone planning on doing this, one thing that I wasn't aware of that tripped me up briefly was the old caps have a small amount of glue/paste holding them to the circuit board in addition to the solder. I used a VERY small flathead screwdriver to pry the cap off after removing the solder. Good luck and take pictures before starting. -
Did PE have a replacement for your remote??
(a few of the old timers will get a chuckle out of that)
Paging, George Grand! Lunatic on line 1! Mr. Grand! Lunatic on line 1!
BDTI plan for the future. - F1Nut -
So I located a company online called Tedss.com. $10 each + shipping.
Nice Work!2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
Hey Troy. Hope all's well with u and George. I stopped looking for the remote long ago, but often find myself thinking about it. Me and that 'mote had some good times.
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I am looking to do the same repair on my rt3000p subs and was able to locate a Panasonic 15000uf capacitor on the website that was recommended (tedss.com). It is part # ECEC1KA152CA. Is this the one you used dbartol1? Also, I noticed the the factory capacitors are 63 Volt and these are 80 Volt. Will this cause a problem?
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thomaspeople wrote: »It is part # ECEC1KA152CA. Is this the one you used dbartol1?
http://tedss.com/2020030841 (Panasonic - $10)
http://tedss.com/2020031421 (Panasonic - $10
http://tedss.com/2020021309 (Aero-M / Min order 3, but $3.50 each)2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
Thanks for catching that! I would like to hope that I would notice before I bought them but I'm glad I asked.
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Pardon me for jumping onto this thread.
I have a Polk RT3000p subwoofer that now has a loud buzzing sound after the power went out the other night. The amp still drives the subs. Based on the advise above, I'm planning to replace the caps. Are there any other parts I should be replacing while I have the unit apart? I looked at the caps, and I don't see them bulging as described above, so I'm curious if it could be something else. Thanks in advance.
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These units were made back in 98-04 and the caps have been known to go bad with age. I bet the surge did not help the situation. Its time to replace them as they are mostly likely the source of the noise. Replacing the caps in mine (as well as many others)cleaned up all the noise and issues I was having.
I would pull the amps apart before you make your order and do a visual of all the components. Look for burnt resistors, etc. If everything looks OK just replace the caps. Should be good for ten more years!2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2