Question about SRS2s and about capacitors

VR3

I used ERSE a couple times and I like them a bit better than others in the price point. The build quality is second to none in the price point.

drumminman

markamerica wrote: »

DrumminMan, you suggest a lower DCR inductor. Any downside?

VR3 wrote: »

I use DCR matched inductors. The lower DCR is usually recommended for the SDA inductor. Going to lower DCR inductors elsewhere can change the voicing of the speaker.

As VR3 said, the lower DCR inductor is only for the SDA inductor, the biggest one. I think that's what you were seeing when you came across DK's thread. The original inductor in the SDA circuit is 18 awg wire and 16 mH, while the solen replacement he (and many others of us used riding on his coat tails :biggrin:) is 10 awg. Can't remember the dcr but it's alot lower.

westmassguy

Ken, wouldn't wool need to be treated somehow, as they do with carpeting. It's a natural fiber and will attract vermin, mites etc. I've used Polyfill on a lot of projects, and actually like it better in certain cases than the Dacron batting. My Center Channel Project has Polyfil in the two center sections.

pitdogg2

Kenneth Swauger wrote: »

I can probably resolve a frequency response down to 0.1dB in variance from a reference point. It would be interesting to see if there are any differences, before and after. Another thing to try would be to measure the old versus new capacitors, especially dielectric "memory" and inductor "ringing" and resistor distortion. Anybody ever considered "potting" the inductors, like transformers are? Or Teflon circuit boards? Or, using a good wire, such as "Wonder Wire" along all of the circuit board traces; soldering a wire along the length of the traces linking each component?
Or, as I've mentioned before, using a different internal damping material, more random than Dacron, such as uncombed wool? I think you guys are on the leading edge of speaker modification, but there's more to be tried. How about eliminating the binding posts altogether, running the connecting wires directly from the amp connection to the crossover circuit board?

Had to Google that "wonder wire" boy if that don't sound extremely expensive. Also looked up the potting of inductors and it seems some had tried it at other audio sites with not so good results in my limited look see. Seems they uncovered more problems than it solved. Like I said limited reading to see what they heck Ken was referring to.

pitdogg2

Wool like this or more like Dacron fluff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Fit-Organic-Wool-Tweeter-Surrounds-B-W-PSB-NHT-KEF-Polk-ALL-BRANDS-/271259016749?pt=US_Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item3f284c1e2d

westmassguy

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Wool like this or more like Dacron fluff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Fit-Organic-Wool-Tweeter-Surrounds-B-W-PSB-NHT-KEF-Polk-ALL-BRANDS-/271259016749?pt=US_Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item3f284c1e2d

Organic or otherwise, wool is wool unless chemically treated so it's not a tasty meal for certain varmints.

westmassguy

Kenneth Swauger wrote: »

I buy Wonder Wire from: http://www.trt-wonder.com/page4.html and it sells for $0.70 per foot, so it wouldn't be very expensive. Wonder Wire started off in life as the leads for Wonder Caps (probably the grand pappy of all the designer caps) the idea was that you would use the exact same wire between components and capacitor leads. With the exception of the MIT internal wire it's the best I've found. The traces on a speaker crossover circuit board (especially Polk's) are fairly wide, but adding additional conducting material should be beneficial.
The uncombed wool idea is actually very popular with British enthusiasts and was always standard on IMF and other speakers. So was lining the inside of speaker cabinets with roofing felt. I suppose if the enclosure isn't ported then a couple of mothballs should keep out moths and a cotton ball soaked in peppermint oil should deter our mousey friends. This would be more of a loose, cotton like, material, not the concentrated type that goes around tweeters. That kind of material could be used around older Polk speakers to reduce edge-of-cabinet diffraction.
Another idea occurred to me, I've read that air flow turbulence can be reduced by using a bundle of soda straws packed together in the opening. If the speaker has a port (not a Power Port) it could be packed with as many soda straws as possible that should lower distortion caused by air turbulence.

Some of the Polk crossovers I've worked on have a conformal Coating or similar, which would make soldering trace wire a PITA.
I've heard of the soda straw mod, but that's adding resistance which would change the tuning frequency, no?

pitdogg2

westmassguy wrote: »

Organic or otherwise, wool is wool unless chemically treated so it's not a tasty meal for certain varmints.

completely understand that, I'm just trying to get his idea. I remember when they used to just staple raw fiberglass insulation inside the cabinets. In 15 yrs or so you'll see the old fiberglass insulation treated like asbestos. Can't imagine fiberglass inside a ported cabinet with every bass note little puffs of particles expelled into the air to breath.

pitdogg2

westmassguy wrote: »

I've heard of the soda straw mod, but that's adding resistance which would change the tuning frequency, no?

One would think so but then again some manufactures now send along foam bungs to help with the lower frequency and port noise. So the straw method could actually help for the better either way

westmassguy

pitdogg2 wrote: »

completely understand that, I'm just trying to get his idea. I remember when they used to just staple raw fiberglass insulation inside the cabinets. In 15 yrs or so you'll see the old fiberglass insulation treated like asbestos. Can't imagine fiberglass inside a ported cabinet with every bass note little puffs of particles expelled into the air to breath.

I can do better than that. Duct liner which is used to quiet air noise, especially in recording studios, is made of fiberglass. When it's new, it has a protective layer over the raw fiberglass. after 10 years or so, that layer begins to break down, and little bits of fiberglass begin to break-off

pitdogg2

westmassguy wrote: »

I can do better than that. Duct liner which is used to quiet air noise, especially in recording studios, is made of fiberglass. When it's new, it has a protective layer over the raw fiberglass. after 10 years or so, that layer begins to break down, and little bits of fiberglass begin to break-off

Know it well. When i helped tear out our radio studio at work they had that stuff it just clogged my respirator so bad. Every time someone would shut the door to the studio it snowed glass. they couldn't of paid me enough to go in there and work as a radio personalty.

westmassguy

Kenneth Swauger wrote: »

Not fiberglass, something organic, grown not squirted out by Monsanto. Find a place that sells raw wool to people who spin yarn at home, get it right from the sheep if possible. You don't want it carded or died yet, cleaned is fine, it needs to be as random as possible. I used to use the undercoat I brushed out of my Norwegian Elkhound, talk about thick and completely random and non-reflective it was excellent. Packed judiciously behind midrange drivers it sounded more as I preferred to anything else I tried.

Well not for me. I have a thing about wool anyway, and the thought of mites and other creepy crawly things feasting on the wool kinda makes my skin crawl. I can't even wear wool clothing, never mind packing my speakers with it.

westmassguy

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Know it well. When i helped tear out our radio studio at work they had that stuff it just clogged my respirator so bad. Every time someone would shut the door to the studio it snowed glass. they couldn't of paid me enough to go in there and work as a radio personalty.

I was in the HVAC Business for 25+ years, I could tell you stories that would make you sick. The stuff we found in some of those ducts. Old ductwork in old buildings, is bad news.

markamerica

zingo wrote: »

...just got my order of Erse caps for my SRS 2s. I will give feedback once they are installed, as they are a budget cap that looks high quality but I'm unsure of the sound quality. I do prefer the sound of the Mundorf MOX resistors over the Mills, but that's just my ear and preference.

Awesome Zingo, I'll be curious to read your results. I hear good things about the Mundorf resistors.

Thanks!

markamerica

headrott wrote: »

... I would highly recommend some Duelund Cast resistors. IMO, they are great resistors and add to the afore mentioned audio aspects. They are expensive, but since you only have to replace them every 10+ years, they are worth every penny (IMO).

Wowser! I found some Duelund Resistors and you're right: They're big coin, for sure. I also looked at their cast capacitors. Then I saw the prices. I then felt embarrassment of having looked at the page. I was astonished.

I'd have to trade in a couple of cars to outfit all my speakers with those...LOL

markamerica

drumminman wrote: »

I think that's what you were seeing when you came across DK's thread. The original inductor in the SDA circuit is 18 awg wire and 16 mH, while the solen replacement he (and many others of us used riding on his coat tails :biggrin:) is 10 awg. Can't remember the dcr but it's alot lower.

Drumminman, that's correct. DK's thread was interesting as he tried mounting the big inductor in a number of places inside the cabinet.

Thanks!

Mark

markamerica

Kenneth Swauger wrote: »

I can probably resolve a frequency response down to 0.1dB in variance from a reference point. It would be interesting to see if there are any differences, before and after. Another thing to try would be to measure the old versus new capacitors, especially dielectric "memory" and inductor "ringing" and resistor distortion. Anybody ever considered "potting" the inductors, like transformers are? Or Teflon circuit boards? Or, using a good wire, such as "Wonder Wire" along all of the circuit board traces; soldering a wire along the length of the traces linking each component?
Or, as I've mentioned before, using a different internal damping material, more random than Dacron, such as uncombed wool? I think you guys are on the leading edge of speaker modification, but there's more to be tried. How about eliminating the binding posts altogether, running the connecting wires directly from the amp connection to the crossover circuit board?

Kenneth, There's a lot here worth trying, though given my wool allergy, I'll leave that to others. I was already thinking about schemes for wiring direct. Specifically, I was thinking back to my days as an Army mechanic and the large cannon-plug connectors we used in some applications using wire as large as 00 soldered into pins and receptacles. I'm actually looking at a more modern version of this general idea with connectors from Amphenol in their Radsok line.

I was also considering something akin to wonder-wire. Lots to conisder, surely.

Thanks!

Mark