FUSE Questions...
kevhed72
Posts: 5,059
I scooped up a Sherwood Newcastle Receiver today.....beautiful condition and the thing weighs a ton. No sound from front mains, so I pulled the fuses and 2 are bad:
1. SH51 SB / 250V 8A
2. SH51 M / 125V 315mA
I am assuming fuse 1 is a SLOW BLOW fuse and needs to be replaced with a 250V 8A (??)
Fuse 2 above - not sure what the M represents.....and if a 125v 315mA is available (or if 250V can be substituted)?
Any fuse experts out there...
1. SH51 SB / 250V 8A
2. SH51 M / 125V 315mA
I am assuming fuse 1 is a SLOW BLOW fuse and needs to be replaced with a 250V 8A (??)
Fuse 2 above - not sure what the M represents.....and if a 125v 315mA is available (or if 250V can be substituted)?
Any fuse experts out there...
Post edited by kevhed72 on
Comments
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http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VHY5FE/ref=asc_df_B009VHY5FE2662843?smid=AS0K3MKEU5H24&tag=dealtmp814716-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B009VHY5FEI scooped up a Sherwood Newcastle Receiver today.....beautiful condition and the thing weighs a ton. No sound from front mains, so I pulled the fuses and 2 are bad:
1. SH51 SB / 250V 8A
2. SH51 M / 125V 315mA
I am assuming fuse 1 is a SLOW BLOW fuse and needs to be replaced with a 250V 8A (??)
Fuse 2 above - not sure what the M represents.....and if a 125v 315mA is available (or if 250V can be substituted)?
Any fuse experts out there...
http://www.amazon.com/5x20mm-250v-Slow-Blow-Ceramic-Fuses/dp/B004GFE2MCHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Fuse 2 above - not sure what the M represents.....and if a 125v 315mA is available (or if 250V can be substituted)?
mA = milliamp, 1/1000 of an amp. 315 mA is a small value. I would not substitute values for a fuse in that position, I'd get an exact replacement."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Very critical value I'm suredrumminman wrote: »mA = milliamp, 1/1000 of an amp. 315 mA is a small value. I would not substitute values for a fuse in that position, I'd get an exact replacement.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thank you for the info. Gentlemen....
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I would be worried what caused them to blow. You may have a short somewhere and replacing them and reapplying power could cause more damage. Best thing I could tell you is get it checked out before anything else is touched. Those would not blow for no reason and a 8amp slow blow means whatever took it out was not likely a small opps.Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.
Lg 55LW5600 TV
Onkyo PR-SC 5508
Legacy Audio Focus SE
Legacy Audio Silverscreen HD center
Polk F/X500i Rears
Parasound HCA-3500
Sunfire Grand Cinema
Behringer iNUKE NU6000DSP
Pair of CraigSUB SS-18.1 -
I would be worried what caused them to blow. You may have a short somewhere and replacing them and reapplying power could cause more damage. Best thing I could tell you is get it checked out before anything else is touched. Those would not blow for no reason and a 8amp slow blow means whatever took it out was not likely a small opps.
Interesting. Fuse 1 above - the slow blow actually didn't blow....just 2 tiny bubbles in wire but the wire is intact. Fuse 2 was completely blown. I figured I should replace both due the slow blow looks like it may be almost toast (Im guessing). -
If the insulation on the wired was bubbled, you have a problem. Could be the receiver or other component.
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Well, the plot thickens, with these 2 fuses:
1. SH51 SB / 250V 8A (this is fuse with bubbles on wire)
2. SH51 M / 125V 315mA (this is completely blown fuse)
After looking closer at the circuit board, here is what should have been installed:
1. 125V 8A slow blow (1 above was in its place)
2. 125V 315 mA slow blow (2 above was in its place)
Now I am wondering if the correct fuses would solve the issue, or if there is something more complex with this unit..... -
The voltage rating won't matter much that just means when the fuse blows it seperates for that voltage so there is no reconnectonHome Theater
Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
Two Channel
Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV -
Well, 2 new fuses arrived today and I popped them in. I can get sound out of the rear channels and center, but no sound from the fronts. This is the same result when I had the bad fuse in, which is weird.
The only other thing is there is a VCR REC 1 indicator light on which I cannot figure out if is supposed to be lit or not (of course the manual was no help with this indicator) and I don't have the remote. Hmmm.....:frown:
