Blown fuse in psw10
Tucks
Posts: 12
The fuse in my brand new PSW10 is blown. I just received it from Amazon Warehouse deals
I am worried that the problem my be deeper than the fuse. Is my concern valid?
I am worried that the problem my be deeper than the fuse. Is my concern valid?
Post edited by Tucks on
Comments
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Hi Tucks,
Welcome to Polk's forum. Blowing the AC fuse in any amplifier is a reason to figure out what might have happened to cause it. Fuses blow because either the rated voltage was surpassed or (more likely) the rated current was exceeded. Were there any problems with your house AC, brownout or power interrupted, for example? If not, what was the setting for the sub's volume control? Did the fuse look heavily blackened on the inside of the glass, or was the small wire just broken?
Regards, Ken -
Hi Ken, Thanks for your reply.
I am sorry I did not see this when you were on. First I might have misled you when I said brand new. I bought it from Amazon Warehouse Deal that sells used products but it was rated (like new). So to your queries.
There are no problems at my house and the sub was plugged into a surge protector that also has my other electronics with no problem. On examining the sub, the screws on the panel were worn. So much for (like new).
The sub was turned to 30% before it was turned on.
The fuse was not blackened at all but the wire was broken.
I am planning to replace the fuse before the day is out, I am just hoping that the problem does not go any deeper.
Thanks Tucks -
Hi Tucks,
If the fuse wire was just broken it could have been just a defective fuse. Try a replacement and see if things work correctly.
Cheers, Ken -
Thanks for the encouragement Ken. I just came back home with new fuses.
Fingers crossed. -
By the way Ken for the psw10 should the fuse be a slow or fast blow
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Bad news.
I bought radio shack 2A/250V slow blow fuse. I put it in place, turned down the sub, plugged it in. At that point it hummed and the power light went red then off. Tried turning it on but nothing.
I then took the back panel out and noted an electrical smell. Checked the fuse and sure enough it was blown. My worst fears, it seems as if the problem is deeper.
Any thoughts?
Thanks -
Replace the blown fuse with a stick of dynomite, light it and replace the "blown" sub with anything but a psw10
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Deron I saw nothing but good reviews for the psw10. Can you tell me what you dislike about it
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In the short time i have been on this forum, i believe i have seen at least a dozen posts about problems with that sub. I love Polk, but that sub is a bane.
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Sorry, Tucks, it was worth a try. Give Polk's CS guys a call, on Monday, at: 1-800-377-7655 or via email to: polkcs@polkaudio.com. It will be helpful if you can provide them with the Amazon information when you contact them.
Regards, Ken -
Thanks Ken
Tucks -
No problem, Polk will help you out.
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I had messed around with my PSW10 amp once and ended up with repeat blowing fuses. Turns out that when I reassembled it, there is an insulator that goes between a voltage regulator and its heat sink that I didn't install properly and was shorting. I reinstalled it properly and it is good to go.
Since yours is used, someone could have been monkeying around and done the same.
StanStan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Hi Stan
Thanks for the tip. However I ordered a Dayton Audio SA70 70W Subwoofer Amplifier, with the funds that amazon refunded me. Tha t was very good of them renewed my faith in Amazon.
I will be playing around with the psw10 amp after replacing it with the Dayton to see if your suggestion pans out.
Do you know the impedance of the psw10 driver
Thanks Tucks -
Does anyone know the impedance of the psw10 driver?
Thanks -
Hi Ken Do you know the impedance of the psw10 driver?
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Hello,
I believe it is a 4 ohm woofer, but check with Polk CS to be sure, it's been a while since I was in the "know".
Regards, Ken -
Thanks, Tucks
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I had messed around with my PSW10 amp once and ended up with repeat blowing fuses. Turns out that when I reassembled it, there is an insulator that goes between a voltage regulator and its heat sink that I didn't install properly and was shorting. I reinstalled it properly and it is good to go.
Since yours is used, someone could have been monkeying around and done the same.
Stan
Stan,
I was given a PSW10 in pieces. The large heat sink was removed from the amp (fuse was intact). I reassembled and tested, only to blow the fuse. I'm curious about what sort of insulator I might be missing. I see some goo on the heat sink that somewhat resembles thermal paste (like you'd use on a cpu heatsink). I never thought that thermal paste would provide insulation from electrical current. The screws that pass through would also provide a current path (unless using non-conductive screws).
Is there some other piece to this that I'm missing? I'm thinking about cleaning the surfaces and using electrical tape as an insulator, absent any better ideas.
I'd really appreciate any more info you may provide about your fix.
James