Best threads for explaining the SDA 2B TL upgradede

geppy1
geppy1 Posts: 3,075
edited August 2013 in Vintage Speakers
What is the best thresd for explaining how to do the SDA 2B TL upgrade? Thanks
Post edited by geppy1 on

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited August 2013
    This is a thread I wrote about it years ago. The pin/blade CRS+ and 2B crossovers are exactly the same.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?40577-SDA-SRS-4.1TL-Upgrade&highlight=2BTL

    A couple of things, eliminate this step entirely;
    (2) .1uF Gen II (replaces the 750pF Silver Mica)

    Use two 20's instead of the 30 and 10;
    (2) 10uF (combine the 30 & 10 to equal the needed 40uF as the largest cap from Sonicap is 30uF)

    Use the 12 watt versions instead;
    Mills Wire-wound 5 watt resistor 5% tolerance
    (2) 2.7ohm MRA-5
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited August 2013
    For any applicable SDA 1 or 2 or CRS or SRS 2 (the ones suitable for the TL upgrade) is there anything more to the actual TL mod that ripping out a 4.4uF capacitor in each high-frequency crossover section, and installing a 5.8uF cap in it's place--and installing the SL3000/RD-0198 tweeters in place of the SL2000s?

    Everything else done to them is just general repair or mods that could be done without changing the TL status--right?

    The TL mod is more involved in the other applicable models of the SRS line, but not in the regular SDA line, or in the SRS 2 blade/blade.
  • geppy1
    geppy1 Posts: 3,075
    edited August 2013
    Thanks Jesse.
    I knew you had done a write up but could not find it for some reason.

    I am not going to do the whole X/O yet. I just want to add the 198s and the 5.8 first. Just to make sure ,the 5.8 goes to the C5 hole and one marked H??
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited August 2013
    Keith, correct the 5.8 goes in the C5 position. You can either drop the 5.8 bottom lead into the bottom C5 hole and run a jumper from E to H or run the 5.8 bottom lead into the H hole. Also, make sure your boards have a jumper in the R2 position.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited August 2013
    Schurkey wrote: »
    For any applicable SDA 1 or 2 or CRS or SRS 2 (the ones suitable for the TL upgrade) is there anything more to the actual TL mod that ripping out a 4.4uF capacitor in each high-frequency crossover section, and installing a 5.8uF cap in it's place--and installing the SL3000/RD-0198 tweeters in place of the SL2000s?

    The only Polk approved TL upgrade is for the pin/blade CRS+ and 2B. I know a few folks have done something with other SDA's, but I have yet to see anyone post frequency plots, etc. and until I do, I remain skeptical. Certainly using the RD0198-1 in the top position and the SL2000 or RD0194-1 in the bottom position of the 1C's is far from ideal.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited August 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    The only Polk approved TL upgrade is for the pin/blade CRS+ and 2B. I know a few folks have done something with other SDA's, but I have yet to see anyone post frequency plots, etc. and until I do, I remain skeptical. Certainly using the RD0198-1 in the top position and the SL2000 or RD0194-1 in the bottom position of the 1C's is far from ideal.
    I TL'd my 2As, and they came out fantastic. I based it on a long thread, that you participated in F1. My 2As are single Tweeter though, and the Hi-Pass section of the 2A is almost identical to the 2B, with the exception of a resistor in the shunt.
    I would not recommend it for any other SDAs that have multiple Tweeters however, unless there's an approved TL modification.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited August 2013
    I don't remember the thread (I'm old...lol), but yeah, I could see that working just fine for the 2A'a.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited August 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    I don't remember the thread (I'm old...lol), but yeah, I could see that working just fine for the 2A'a.
    Well I'm 56, so I have my senior moments. It worked exceptionally well, and the only reason I attempted, was because of your input along with a few other senior members. I did a small write-up on it, with and without the resistor. Because of the very different Lo-Pass Section of the Pin//Blade 4th Generation, with different stereo and dimensional woofers, the resistor had to stay.
    When I jumpered it to mimic the 2B, the Hi-Pass was too hot.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • geppy1
    geppy1 Posts: 3,075
    edited August 2013
    OK Not sure what to do here I did do th 198s and since the Solen 5.6 was avaiable localy I did that Just to see,. and yes things do come out from the behind the speakers and are more upfront. I figured 5.6 was close enough. Now I want to do the whole thing. Cost is a big deal as usual. These are the options I see I suspect anything would be better then stock. What is the best bang for the buck here??

    All Solens $68
    All Clarity PX $112
    Solen (40 and 20) with Clarity PX (12 and 5.6) $75
    Solen (40 and 20) with Clarity ESA (12 and 5.6) $95
    Carity PX (40and20) with Clarity ESa (12and 5.6) $135 ouch??
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,442
    edited August 2013
    I find the Solens to be BRIGHT or harsh on my ears. Sonicraft too pricey?
    YMMV Keith just my .02
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited August 2013
    I'd go Sonicap/Mills all the way, you won't be sorry
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • geppy1
    geppy1 Posts: 3,075
    edited August 2013
    I went with this as I thought it was the best bang for the buck.
    Solen (40 and 20) with Clarity PX (12 and 5.6) $75
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited August 2013
    Sonicap for the HF would be a much, much better choice.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2013
    I don't agree with much better. PX series is similar to the SA series, but with voltage capacity. The PX/SA series has a laid back sound to it, meanwhile Sonic Caps have more detail, but aren't harsh or nasal like Solen.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • geppy1
    geppy1 Posts: 3,075
    edited August 2013
    I hope they are not to laidback
  • geppy1
    geppy1 Posts: 3,075
    edited August 2013
    Well after about 150 hours on the 198s and caps I can say the voices are a little more forward and the speakers sound more transparent. My only concern is the midrange does not seem as thick/rich as it was. Not that 2Bs are rich (like a 1C0 The sound is slightly thinner
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited August 2013
    IMO, what you are hearing is a more balanced sound compared to the 1C's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk