bad 3000p amps? Is modding needed?

pietsch288

Two of my 3000p bottoms have very noticeable distortion coming from them. I know its not normal because I have 2 sets stacked on top of each other.....one set has it the other does not. Is there a reasonable priced place to send these to be repaired (I assume its the plate amps)?? Also are there any upgrades that are a must for these plate amps to improve SQ?? thanks rich

tonyb

Have to ask ya pal, with 4 svs subs in the mix, why do you feel a need to throw more coin at obsolete subs in the 3000p's. Better sound quality ? Sell the 3000p's, people are always looking for parts to these, and move on to Polks LSIM series, thank me later for that suggestion.

WLDock

I think I have to agree. I only have one sub working and the caps need to be replaced in that amp. I picked up two blown amps to get the other side going for $100 each and these things are hosed. I have not been able to repair either one...not that I'm the best bench tech. $40 already in parts. It was a good plan...I will give it another try before I completely give up.

Anyway, the problem with some of these boards is that they crack and the traces break...one of the techs at Polk told me that. I don't know if the two I have are repairable. Even if they are, Polk will charge ~$75-$120 each if they can repair them plus shipping cost both ways. DAMN! $200 + $40 in parts already spent and another $200-$300+ to repair them. The plan was to sell one once I got them repaired. Still, I could have just bought two brand NEW 300W amps for cheap.

Dayton Audio SA1000 $359
BASH 500W - $199
BASH 300W - $119

Carvin DCM1000L 1000 Watts - $349
Yamaha P2500S 1300 watts - $345
Crown XLS 1000 1000 Watts -$299


Wait, your sub list is sick! Any pictures of your room?

pietsch288

I run these as intended.....As a full range speaker, not as a sub. The sound quality of theses subs are amazing...very musical (as a full range speaker). I have had many subs come through my movie room and all of them including the SVS's are designed for hometheater LFE effects, not for super clean musical passages. I tried these as subs for LFE and didn't care much for them as duel 8" drivers do not move much air. There is a guy on ebay that repairs these and polk will also, but I was wandering if guys are modding the xo in these like in the tops. There is no way I going to swap speakers, the SQ of the rt3000p in my opinion is second to none, and for the price of 1 brand new speaker (not a pair) I have 6 tops 4 bottoms a cs1000p center and pair of f/x1000 surrounds. rich

pietsch288

I'ts hard to get good pics because I have black curtains threw out and the screen is 4' away from the front wall so I can hide the subs and audio gear behind there. The 4 svs subs are hiding under the middle row of seats (I have built risors so the 1st row is on the floor the 2nd is exactly 19" for the svs's to fit and the 3rd row 37" off the ground and up against the back wall). I run the 4 svs's and the fi 18" xo at 20-22hz so they only provide the LFE energy, and I run the polk rt3000p's xo in my receiver at the recommended 80hz. The plan was to experiment with the other set of 3000 bottoms for the 30-60hz area, but I have to get them fixed first, they sound really bad.

tonyb

Ok, I'm sorry but no way on earth can you compare the SVS subs to the built in ones on the 3000p's. Music or HT, it's not even a contest. Running them full range and crossing over at 80.....what are you sending to them anyway ? If your experiencing problems with music on an SVS, then you need to re evaluate your settings. You can set it up for one setting for HT another for music in your AVR.....so you don't leave the subs in a HT setting when trying to dish out tunes.

pietsch288

Look....Sound Is preference and its been debated over many years. For music I like sealed or smaller drivers IMHO they provide a more accurate sound, I wan't a kick drum and a snare to sound like there supposed to. The 3000's if feel are very accurate and not overwhelming. If the PC-ultra was the best speaker in the world why did they start making the sealed 13.5"

http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/view-all?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=257&category_id=1#.UgaY03fn_IU

Don't get me wrong I really enjoy my ultra's, just don't like them for music. There's a reason people have 2 channel setups and HT setups in different rooms they don't usually mix will in the same room... There are many many people who do not like subwoofers in there 2 channel setups as a matter of fact most audiophiles won't use them. The 3000's have a very natural accurate sound that I really like.

Most people including me have no idea what music is supposed to sound like.....is it supposed to sound like it does live or perhaps in a high dollar recording studio with speakers that cost more than my house. I don't know.........I try and set up my equipment with what I use as a reference...... me. I have heard many live concerts and just sound in general so I set up my theater so a car door closing sounds like a car door closing (not some weird thud that just isn't there in real life). Rich

pietsch288

How about this....my current set up is the lesser of two evils.

pietsch288

I would like to try the JL stuff someday, either the Fathom or the Gothom. However it seems hard to justify $12,000ish
It would look nice added to my list of subs though..........
http://hometheaterreview.com/jl-audio-gotham-subwoofer-reviewed/

WLDock

pietsch288 wrote: »

Look....Sound Is preference and its been debated over many years. For music I like sealed or smaller drivers IMHO they provide a more accurate sound, I wan't a kick drum and a snare to sound like there supposed to. The 3000's if feel are very accurate and not overwhelming. If the PC-ultra was the best speaker in the world why did they start making the sealed 13.5"[url][/url]

I hear you on the small sealed thing, I tend to like sealed subs. However, an accurate sub like the Ultra turned waay down and tuned with EQ to deal with the room/ flatten the response, could be awesome with music...especially with dynamic music with low end content. IMO, when you take the low end strain off the main drivers and reproduce the bass with a clean sub like the Ultra with the awsome TC Sounds made drivers, it can really clean up the presentation. With any sub...room integration is key..done right the sub disappears.

pietsch288 wrote: »

I would like to try the JL stuff someday, either the Fathom or the Gothom. However it seems hard to justify $12,000ish
It would look nice added to my list of subs though..........
http://hometheaterreview.com/jl-audio-gotham-subwoofer-reviewed/

Some are using these with 2 Ch playback systems....even heard of recording studios using them. Well integrated clean bass is a different beast than the BOOM! Note, some like the new Ultra over the Fathom.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/768150/official-craigsub-rankings-thread#post_9164136

pietsch288

I'm all for using a sub with music. When I find one I like I'll use it. LOL
I installed car audio for years and love subs. I just can't find the right blend for home, but don't worry I'm not giving up any time soon. I agree with taking the strain off the mains...... if I remember correctly everybody recommends xo mains at 80hz regardless of brand/ quality or even size of speaker. Even when I had klipsch RF7's with duel 10's I xo'd them at 80hz.... just sounded cleaner. These polk 3000's kick the rf'7s butt in clean sounding tight bass. rich

pietsch288

Messed around in the movie room/ watched a movie this evening. One of the deciding factors in how I have it set up and why I dislike subwoofers in the 30-70hz ish range isn't necessarily the main listening position..... its the other 9 seats. The main position allows me to xo my mains @ 40hz and sounds fine (after audyssey of course). The problem is the other 9 seats sound like crap. When I xo my mains @ 80hz I miss very little in the main position and its much more tolerable in the other seats. One of the reasons I like the 3000's in my room xo @ 80hz is they give a nice punch in all the seats. rich

mysound

Hello all, this is entertaining reading - wow, what a system Rich!

I am such a beginner! I'm trying to find the tops in cherry finish to the RT3000p system. A friend gave me two bottoms, one working and one not. I plan to send in the plate amp to Polk for repair on the non-working one. I contacted Polk to see what the top speaker is called or was called when these were sold. They said an RT55 or RT55i would be a good top to use. Does that sound right to you all? Can you give me the dimensions of the top - since you have so many - LOL! Also, do you have your tops and bottoms hooked up with speaker level inputs and use the crossover inside the bottoms? In the owner's manual it indicates that is the best way to hook them up and set them as large in the receiver/amp. I appreciate your thoughts anyone who would like to reply.

FYI, here is my puny setup:

NAD T-757 v2 Receiver - 60 wpc x 7
Center: Polk CSi 30
Fronts: Polk RtiA4?, maybe without the "A" - I have had these setting on top of the RT3000p bottoms but since only one works I have decided to wait until I get the other one fixed before adding them back.
Subwoofer: HSU VTF2 MK3
Rear: Polk Wireless Surround Series II
I have the setup in 7.1 - the Wireless Surround can accept all four surround channels and keep them separate - pretty neat really.

WLDock

The tops to the RT3000P are of a different but similar design to the RT55, RT55i. The 3000's are sealed and have different drivers and crossover plus they use the active High Pass filter from the sub amp to cap the low end. Putting the RT55's in place using the crossover should be fine as you are more likly to find a set of those vs. the original tops.

There is a black set posted on the Charlotte, NC craigslist. They have been posted for awhile and the guy was willing to ship.

rtart

Hi mysound..welcome to the forum!!

Many have said that a pair of RT55's are a reasonable substitute for the correct RT3000p sats. I've tried the setup and agree. They are not the same thing, but are a reasonable substitute. My advice is to use the RT55's and be patient and wait for a pair of the rosewood sats to appear in the FS listings forum section. It took me a couple years to find the correct color to use for my rear surround-back pair. I traded a black pair for them about a year ago, seems like. As far a repairing the sub amps, Polk can do it, and their is a seller on ebay that offers a repair service as well. I've heard that he does good work, but I'd search the forum for other opinions. I would spend the money to get it repaired. I have a spare amp, and would spring for the repair if needed. IMO, the RT3000p is one of the best HT speakers systems ever made.

There are RT55's for sale in the FS listings, I think. I've got a couple extra pairs in black, I think.

Again, welcome, and have fun!!

mysound

Thank you both WLDock and rtart! I just now figured out how to subscribe and get instant email notifications. Thank you both for your replies. It is good to know that the 3000p tops are not exactly the same as the RT55 or RT55i's. It looks like here: http://www.polkaudio.com/products/rt3000p that the tops have the ARC port under the bottom woofer.

I found a listing on Ebay for the tops and center from the RT5000 system - and am considering them. I may end up with an entire black set that way and like you say, I may be able to trade for some black bottoms in the future. So I will go ahead and repair the plate amp. Since you both have experience with the 3000p system, do you think it's better to use the LFE input on the back of the bottom, use pre outs for the front channels and route back to the receiver, or use speaker wire and jumper to the tops using the crossover knob? I hope that makes sense - I know these questions can get a bit complicated. The speakers I have on top of the 3000p bottoms are RTi4's.

Thanks for the Craigslist info, I'll check out those listings.

rtart

I run mine as full range speakers, which means not using the LFE input on the subs. I just run speaker wire to the sub bases and let the internal crossovers do their job and provide signal to the top modules....BTW the plate amp is also a crossover, if memory serves.

The price for the eBay system with the two tops and the CS1000p seems to be priced about right. Wouldn't pay more than that, though.

rtart

Common complaint from new members. The argument is that there is no buy/sell protection like ebay, so sellers may be more legit is they have been around for a while.

tonyb

I understand your infatuation with the 3000p's having been a former owner myself, but....what you have is one working bottom section, no top sections. In essence, your trying to polish a ****. The other tops won't work as well as you think and parts for the non working bottom section aren't easy to come by.

That said, the 55's with the HSU sub will be every bit as good as the older 3000p's. I believe you should pursue that avenue and add a second HSU sub as that would give more benefits per dollar spent than chasing down combinations and repairs for the 3000p's. As good as the 3000p's were, todays HT speakers are better.

WLDock

tonyb wrote: »

In essence, your trying to polish a ****.

say how you really feel Tony, LOL!

IMO, I don't think its that bad. Basically he said his friend gave him the lowers....may have to spend about $150 to get the one repaired. The four 8" subs make for some decent surface area and produce a nice midbass thump. Given that they have a built in two-way adjustable crossover, phase, and level control....and his AVR has Audyssey, I see no reason why they might not mate up with many other bookshelf speakers out there....they are just subs...no reason they are exclusive to the RT3000. Even if you opt to spend $750 on the Center and tops, having an RT5000 front is not a bad thing for HT....even though there are numerous choices out there.

Still, I agree, finding a set of RT55's at a good price and picking up another HSU is not a bad thought either. Or, for the $750 asking price of the RT5000 center and tops on eBay...you could look for used bookshelfs and centers from PSB, KEF, Definitive Technology, etc...or something like towers and center for $800 in the deals section :http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/ele/4264277226.html

Or seven speakers like this for $500...http://norfolk.craigslist.org/ele/4280200273.html Then find another ued sub for a potent 7.1 system for the money.

There are several ways to get there...just have to figure out what you are after. Many still love the RT5000 set...even after all these years....even though others have moved on to the latest and greatest.

mysound

Thanks all for the good advice. I am in contact with someone who is selling an entire RT5000 system at a very good price. I may end up with an entire system that was "born" together and 1.5 RT3000p bases. I think $1100 for an entire system sounds like a good deal. I like the idea of the SVS 5 speakers plus an additional HSU, but I am satisfied with my HSU as is - it's great. If I get the entire 5000 system, I'll be putting up at least my CSi30 for sale. I also have some Boston Acoustics A60 Series II speakers I bought back in 1989 and an NAD 7000 Monitor Series Stereo Receiver that I have loved since I got them. The Bostons were re-surrounded here locally by a place that does practically anything with speakers and vintage audio components. I believe they repaired the base that does work.