Any plans for polk to release an even newer version of the SDA tweeter

MAD
MAD Posts: 105
edited July 2013 in Vintage Speakers
OK I'm totally sold on upgrading the tweeters to the RDO 194 and eventually caps on the crossover but is there any talk of an even newer tweeter that they are developing and planning to modify it to suit the SDAs.

I know the lsi series has a dual ring radiator etc.

When was the rdo 198 and 194 released?

I would hate to fork out all the cash and have an even better tweeter become available especially since I am really enjoying the SDA SRS 2.3 as they stand. I could easily listen for a year or so while waiting.

Thanks for the replies in advance,

Mike
Post edited by MAD on

Comments

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited July 2013
    Is there that big a market for SDA tweeters?
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
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  • bluecomet
    bluecomet Posts: 1,118
    edited July 2013
    I doubt if Polk will ever release a newer tweet for SDA's. I think we are fortunate that Polk upgraded the originals, most companies would not have.
    Polk HT system 1: LSIC, LSI25 mains, LSI F/X rears, Lsi F/X rear centers,
    Yamaha RX-V2500 System, Carver A753 3 channel amp.

    Polk HT system 2: , SRT system with f/x 1,000's rear speakers on 7.1 system currently using Onkyo TX-RZ820 receiver, powered by Sunfire Grand Theater amp

    Polk Speaker collection: SDA SRS 1.2tl x 2, SRT system, SDA SRS 2 P/B, SDA 2A, SDA 1C Studio, SDA CRS+, Monitor 7B & 4, SRS 3.1tl, RTA 15tl, LS90, LSI 9
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited July 2013
    Agreed. I had hoped that someday they would release a new SDA but I don't think so, the reason I am glad to have what I have.
    bluecomet wrote: »
    I doubt if Polk will ever release a newer tweet for SDA's. I think we are fortunate that Polk upgraded the originals, most companies would not have.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited July 2013
    Not going to happen and why should it, the RD0 tweeters are great.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2013
    Why fix something that isn't broken? The 194s are great tweeters, and the 198s are superb. It's hard to beat a properly designed textile dome tweeter. I'm grateful Polk developed these new tweeters. I'm not aware of any mass-production audio company that has done anything even close to what Polk did. I'm not na
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

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  • MAD
    MAD Posts: 105
    edited July 2013
    It seems to me that generally the RDO 198 is the tweeter to get... as a few of you have said...a bit brighter top end vs. the 194 more laid back. I really like the top end sizzle and airyness in a speaker.

    Some people have put an entirely new crossover in their SDA SRS 2.3 to convert them to TL and then put the 198 tweeter in.

    Is there a simple change I could make to my crossover (just changing a couple caps and resistors) to accomodate the 198 tweeter instead of the 194? I'm planning to do a recap eventually anyways.

    Would it be better to wait for a set of 2.3tl to pop up?

    Thanks for the advice
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2013
    I don't know that I'd describe them as brighter, just smoother and more detailed.
    To my knowledge there is no TL mod for your 2.3s, the crossovers and drivers are vastly different than the 2.3TLs
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited July 2013
    If you use the 194 tweeter and use a jumper (instead of a .5 ohm resistor) to replace the polyswitch(s), you might get a little brighter top end that you prefer. No cap replacement would be needed and the cost would be $0 if you can solder.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited July 2013
    yea and if it is a little too bright go with a .22 Mills Resistor they are cheap
    TennMan wrote: »
    If you use the 194 tweeter and use a jumper (instead of a .5 ohm resistor) to replace the polyswitch(s), you might get a little brighter top end that you prefer. No cap replacement would be needed and the cost would be $0 if you can solder.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • MAD
    MAD Posts: 105
    edited July 2013
    Thanks for the ideas... guess I'll just try them out and see
  • StantonZ
    StantonZ Posts: 444
    edited July 2013
    TennMan wrote: »
    If you use the 194 tweeter and use a jumper (instead of a .5 ohm resistor) to replace the polyswitch(s), you might get a little brighter top end that you prefer. No cap replacement would be needed and the cost would be $0 if you can solder.

    You didn't say what your driving them with, but if you're worried about amp clipping (or of course over-driving), then I would think twice about "jumpering" (shorting) the poly-switch. Don't get me wrong, getting rid of the PS was one of the best things I ever did, but I replaced it with a .5 Ohm resistor even though I've been using the same Yamaha amp for a decade and was very happy with the results.
    Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)
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    Bedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets
  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited July 2013
    StantonZ wrote: »
    You didn't say what your driving them with, but if you're worried about amp clipping (or of course over-driving), then I would think twice about "jumpering" (shorting) the poly-switch. Don't get me wrong, getting rid of the PS was one of the best things I ever did, but I replaced it with a .5 Ohm resistor even though I've been using the same Yamaha amp for a decade and was very happy with the results.
    The way I see it the .5 ohm resistor offers no more protection from clipping than the jumper would. The resistor is only installed to add the approximate resistance of the PS to keep the circuit as near to factory specs as possible. Otherwise the resistor is nothing but a jumper. The PS is basically a circuit breaker. A resistor will not serve the same purpose as far as I know.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,442
    edited July 2013
    TennMan wrote: »
    The way I see it the .5 ohm resistor offers no more protection from clipping than the jumper would. The resistor is only installed to add the approximate resistance of the PS to keep the circuit as near to factory specs as possible. Otherwise the resistor is nothing but a jumper. The PS is basically a circuit breaker. A resistor will not serve the same purpose as far as I know.

    Correct.
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited July 2013
    Since being a brand new owner of SDA 2BS w/ vertical mount Silver dome tweeters is replacing these things THAT much better or again subjective and if not blown should I even consider a change.I really can't afford mods and going nuts in a good way would be out of the question. My more pressing problem is those deep water stains on both tops and I have reached out to the appropreate peeps F-1 and the process seems frought w/ danger w/ acid ,stripper , and other chemicals then sanding then refinishing,I'm not so sure I will attempt this not to mention that I would have carefully remove caps and bottoms to do this.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

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  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    edited July 2013
    Since being a brand new owner of SDA 2BS w/ vertical mount Silver dome tweeters is replacing these things THAT much better or again subjective and if not blown should I even consider a change.I really can't afford mods and going nuts in a good way would be out of the question. My more pressing problem is those deep water stains on both tops and I have reached out to the appropreate peeps F-1 and the process seems frought w/ danger w/ acid ,stripper , and other chemicals then sanding then refinishing,I'm not so sure I will attempt this not to mention that I would have carefully remove caps and bottoms to do this.

    You will hear an improvement if you just replace the tweets. Need some time to round out though.