Baldur Speaker Cables

RamZet

I have come across a pair of Nordost Baldor speaker cables
http://www.nordost.com/specification/19/archived
I think they sound great on my mids and highs (B&W CM9s), but the lows dont sound good at all.
I think im going to keep them connected to the mids and highs and leave my 16 gauge liberty connected to the lows.
Looks like they are just to thin to carry the power needed to the bass drivers in my CM9s.

Has anyone here had any experience with them before?

RamZet

Nobody?

tonyb

None with that model, but way back in the hot tub time machine, and I did own a pair of Blue Heavens for a short period of time. Couldn't stand them, nor have I ever heard a Nordost cable I could live with. Very detailed but lack musicality....just my opinion of course.

That said, whats the big deal ? If they don't float your boat sell them and try something else. Have you let them burn in a while if they were new ?

RamZet

tonyb wrote: »

None with that model, but way back in the hot tub time machine, and I did own a pair of Blue Heavens for a short period of time. Couldn't stand them, nor have I ever heard a Nordost cable I could live with. Very detailed but lack musicality....just my opinion of course.

That said, whats the big deal ? If they don't float your boat sell them and try something else. Have you let them burn in a while if they were new ?

Ive been playing around with them more and more.
"Very detailed but lack musicality..."
Im feeling the same way about them on my speakers the more I use them.
Some CDs sound awesome and others sound awful. I think I may end up putting them on Ebay or the Polk forum.
They are not a good match for my B&Ws.

Also used a pair of XLO/VDO ER-14 THX Speaker Cables, Not a good match for my speakers too. So far the boring 16 gauge liberty wire has been the best.

Drenis

DSkip wrote: »

I'd use the same words to describe any B&W speaker I've heard, so its no surprise they don't pair well. No slam on your speakers, they just aren't my cup of tea.

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA...

txcoastal1

Was not a fan of Nordost, or Goertz ribbon style cables and pretty much gave up on that style.

I have used Kimbers, Audioquest, several MIT's and Cardas configurations along with others. I now have MG Audio design speaker cables (ribbon style) and they work well with my Usher MD2's and very well with my Dynaudio C1-2 Signatures, but sounded flat with DSkips Usher/Jolida combo...Helipilotdougs shined that rig.

Anyway as one moves to the more revealing rigs some work and some don't.

I know this doesn't help but it is what it i when trying to find synergy.....and it costs effing money

Suggestion especially with cables is try used as they are cost effective to ship and virtually no damage issues.

Good luck with your ventures

marvda1

with your b&w speakers, mit interconnects and rotel gear this might what the doctor orders for you. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAQIN-SD-CD3-Stereo-Audio-Processor-Tube-Buffer-/130942838092?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item1e7ccd254c
and since you already have the speaker cables the yaqin option may be your most cost effective route.
you might also contact mg audio design and see if they have any discontinued planus Cu interconnects and planus 1 speaker cables at a bargain price and you can name drop and tell them marvin sent you:cheesygrin:

tonyb

Just my opinion.....and others too, the Rotel gear and the B&W's aren't that great of a match up. You would need a lot warmer sounding cable in my opinion. The tube buffer mentioned may warm things up a tad but will do little for your lower bass and could even make it worse.

Here's a thought too. Switch out the MIT interconnects too. As good a company as they are, they don't always gel with everything. Get an idea from other CM9 owners on what they use, with what gear, and get a feel for the general sound characteristics of each cable brand. You don't have to spend an arm and a leg either. It takes some thought, a tad bit of research, some trial and error to find the sound you like....synergy within your system. By looking at what other CM9 owners use you can narrow down and avoid constant flipping of cables.

Not being hard on ya, just honest, but it seems all your choices are fighting each other my friend. The rotel gear and the speakers, the MIT's and the Nordost. Stop going off of marketing hype, which every cable company does, and stick to what sounds good to your ears regardless of brand. You could also talk to Pepster or Doug and tell them the kind of sound your looking for and they could possibly hook you up with a better match.

RamZet

No market hype on my cables. MIT interconnects I got for free and I think they sound great, but I can only tell any difference at high volumes vs standard cables.
The speaker cable was also free. I played around with them and have taken them out because they dont match the CM9.

Rotel and B&W are part of same company/partnership. "B&W Group", they showcase all their speakers with Rotel gear. I do think Mac and Bryston sound better on B&Ws.

Who has one of these Tube Buffers?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAQIN-SD-CD3-Stereo-Audio-Processor-Tube-Buffer-/130942838092?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item1e7ccd254c
Looks to be a awesome idea. Would this guy go between my pre-amp and amp?

RamZet

Thanks for the replies. The insight you are all giving is great. I did look up what other CM9 owners are using and found that most of them stick to basic speaker cables.

So far I like the sound of my basic 16 gauge liberty speaker cable. However they are very ugly.
Are the Emotiva speaker cables just normal cables with super nice shielding and banana connectors?

B Run

For a budget cable I really like Kimber Kable 4vs, or even start with the 4pr. I thought the 4pr sounded great for 3$ a foot and you're not out much if you don't like em and they'll probably beat out the Emo cables. I'm a fan of the CM9 but they can be very critical of gear upstream so i'd try several different brands before choosing one. I'd also check out Doug's cables as well as Analysis Plus, they've got some great cables for the money as well.

RamZet

B Run wrote: »

For a budget cable I really like Kimber Kable 4vs, or even start with the 4pr. I thought the 4pr sounded great for 3$ a foot and you're not out much if you don't like em and they'll probably beat out the Emo cables. I'm a fan of the CM9 but they can be very critical of gear upstream so i'd try several different brands before choosing one. I'd also check out Doug's cables as well as Analysis Plus, they've got some great cables for the money as well.

The Kimber Kable 4vs and their other products look very nice. I sent a request to the company for a brochure on all their products. Im going to ask them if they think I should try the BiFocalX. (I like to Bi-Wire.) But first I am going to call my Rep at the B&W Group and see what he thinks his product should use in my price range.

I do have a pair of XLO/VDO ER-14 THX Speaker Cables. They look a lot like the kimber 4vs. They too did not match my speakers very well. I think a thicker gauge and different connectors would have helped.I got these for free too. after trying them out i did some research and found that people suggest using them for rear HT speakers b/c they bring out the highs very well. Going to try them on my Polk rear speakers in my HT setup before selling them.

http://app.audiogon.com/listings/speaker-xlo-vdo-er-14-speaker-cables-8-foot-bi-or-tri-wire-set-unused-2012-09-21-cables-30043

RamZet

Just got a Price on the Bifocal X....
.... Guess I can buy two pairs of VS.

B Run

Yeah they're not cheap, but I do feel like the 4VS is close for a lot less money. It also is a little warmer sounding than the pr or tc series which might be a good match for the B&W's.

RamZet

Made my own cables for now. I liked the 16 gauge wires I'm using now, so I used some of that to make braided cables.
This was my first attempt at this. Im going to look into making it better.

B Run

Nice, they look pretty good especially for a first attempt. You still happy with the sound?

RamZet

Yes, the bass sounds a bit deeper or just more powerful. Maybe because its a thicker gauge now. Im going to attempt a different braid tomorrow. Im also going to order some wire sleeve and clear shrink tube off amazon. I might try spades too for the speaker end. I have some nice oversized Ixos stuff laying around.

RamZet

I started with another set of cables. This time I braided them. First time ever braiding. Its was very hard but I found a system that uses numbers and pictures. Hope my next one is tighter and less colorful.

Systems

You should try a single wire 4 wire braid, and shotgun two per side.
Specifically, take 4 wires and braid it, that would be your positive cable.
Do the same for the negative cable, so you would need a total of 4 of these braided cables for a pair of speaker cables.

A phoenix connector may also be useful for your braiding.
Simply put it in a vise, unscrew the terminals, insert the speaker wires and tighten the screws down.
Then you can begin the braiding (able to braid alot tighter this way).
I have never used one, but have seen it done this way.
I just use a vise.
It may really come in handy if you decide to do an 8 braid, which would offer the best cancellation properties, but would be really hard to do.

Phoenix connector (available in as many slots as you can imagine):

RamZet

Hmmmm I will try this tonight or tomorrow night. I have mountains of Phoenix connectors.

Systems

I am not sure I would go real tight on a braid.
I actually prefer mine a little loose.
My understanding is, there is less vibration in a looser braid (a good even braid) as opposed to a solid "tight" braid.
There may be something to that, as I have done both, and preferred the "somewhat looser" braid over the very tight braid.
Not to mention, a very tight braid becomes really stiff, a lightly, well spaced braid is pretty flexible in comparison.

Just my .02 and naturally YMMV.

RamZet

pepster wrote: »

I am not sure I would go real tight on a braid.
I actually prefer mine a little loose.
My understanding is, there is less vibration in a looser braid (a good even braid) as opposed to a solid "tight" braid.
There may be something to that, as I have done both, and preferred the "somewhat looser" braid over the very tight braid.
Not to mention, a very tight braid becomes really stiff, a lightly, well spaced braid is pretty flexible in comparison.

Just my .02 and naturally YMMV.

So im trying it your way. I have one done so far.( as in i need to make 3 more.)