Uprgading RTA 11Ts, need some help and suggestions

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Comments

  • ipsullivan
    ipsullivan Posts: 65
    edited July 2013
    Thanks for the input guys, I will think it over and try to make a decision so I can order parts on Monday.

    F1,

    What kind of differences would I be looking at if I went with Daytons on the 34uF? Instead of the Sonicaps
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,649
    edited July 2013
    A lot of folks don't think shunt caps matter, I beg to differ and Sonicap just happens to be an excellent shunt cap. The difference will be mo' better sound.

    I'm not one of those that thinks a 33uF will do when the specs call for a 34uF. Yes, a 33uF might be within the 10% +/- tolerance of the crappy original, but the 34uF was spec'd for a damn good reason.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • 11tsteve
    11tsteve Posts: 1,166
    edited July 2013
    just to be clear, nobody here said shunt caps don't matter.
    Polk Lsi9
    N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
    NAD 1020 completely refurbished
    Keces DA-131 mk.II
    Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
    Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2
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  • StantonZ
    StantonZ Posts: 444
    edited July 2013
    ipsullivan wrote: »
    I think I am going to go the cheaper route on the 34uF caps. At $50 per for Sonicaps Gen 1s I am having trouble justifying another $100 into these speakers. Any suggestions for something that is more affordable than $50 a piece? Can I get away with using a 33uF?

    I guess it's worth "chiming in" that I went with the (expensive) SoniCaps (custom 34 uF) and am glad I did. If you listen to your stereo/theater/whatever as much as many of us do, a few extra bucks now will yield years of extra enjoyment later.
    Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)
    Polk CS300 center channel
    Analog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1
    Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-Ray
    Bedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2013
    This subject has been debated over and over and over, ad nauseam. Some of us can hear a difference, while some cannot. I personally cannot, and have done side by side listening tests with Sonicaps in the Hi and Lo-Pass, Sonicaps in the Hi-Pass, Daytons, and Solens in the Lo-Pass. I've done it with Monitor 10s, and CRS+s. I heard no difference what-so-ever. If you can hear the difference, and can afford the Premium Caps in the Lo-Pass, by all means go that route. I recently finished the final upgrades on my 2ATLs, and if I'd used Sonicaps in place of the huge 260uf caps, they would have cost me more than the speakers, and all the other upgrades, including the RDO-198s, combined. I chose the Daytons, and have never regretted it.
    If you can hear a difference, and can afford it, knock yourself out. If you can't, or are limited to a certain budget, use the Daytons, Bennics (who make Daytons), Jantzen, Solen etc. They're all well made, and vastly superior to the original NP Electrolytics.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • ipsullivan
    ipsullivan Posts: 65
    edited July 2013
    Well, I have put some thought into it and decide that I changed my mind again and I am going to go with the 34uF custom Sonicap.

    I usually go by the "buy once, cry once" rule, I will bite the bullet on the extra $100. It will be nice to not have to wonder if I am missing out on anything.
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  • StantonZ
    StantonZ Posts: 444
    edited July 2013
    ipsullivan wrote: »
    Well, I have put some thought into it and decide that I changed my mind again and I am going to go with the 34uF custom Sonicap.

    I usually go by the "buy once, cry once" rule, I will bite the bullet on the extra $100. It will be nice to not have to wonder if I am missing out on anything.

    Since you only have to spring for 1 per speaker, I think you made a good choice; even more important is using the actual value called for in the schematic (34 uF), as was pointed out previously. Good luck!
    Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
    (4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
    (2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)
    Polk CS300 center channel
    Analog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1
    Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-Ray
    Bedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets
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  • ipsullivan
    ipsullivan Posts: 65
    edited July 2013
    Got the caps and resistors today. Holy crap, the 34uF's are big!

    Gotta tear down the speakers tomorrow, my spikes should be here by then. And once my rings from Larry show up it will all go back together.

    I figured these deserved the good camera.:cheesygrin:

    9269807703_eabd03a3e7_o.jpg
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  • ipsullivan
    ipsullivan Posts: 65
    edited July 2013
    Quick question, no polarity on these caps right?
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2013
    ipsullivan wrote: »
    Quick question, no polarity on these caps right?
    Nope
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • ipsullivan
    ipsullivan Posts: 65
    edited July 2013
    Got the crossovers done today, thanks to westmassguy for the riser board components, worked great. Getting itchy to put them back together but would rather wait for the rings.

    Question: My driver and PR cones are pretty dusty, what is the best way to clean off the years of dust? Seems like the coating on them is a bit tacky.

    Pics of the XOs:
    9276784649_d756be0afc_k.jpg

    In the cabinet
    9276785827_bd69629f89_o.jpg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,649
    edited July 2013
    ipsullivan wrote: »
    Question: My driver and PR cones are pretty dusty, what is the best way to clean off the years of dust? Seems like the coating on them is a bit tacky.

    Use Windex sprayed on a soft cotton cloth. Wipe in a circular motion. Do not try to remove the coating on the mid-drivers, it's suppose to be tacky.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2013
    I've found lint free, Microfiber Cloths work much better than cotton cloths. Use real Windex, not Glass Plus or some other concoction
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • 11tsteve
    11tsteve Posts: 1,166
    edited July 2013
    and in a pinch, coffee filters are lint free and work fairly well for wiping away dust. i started using them whin cleaning TIM from cpu's, and they have worked pretty well for doing drivers for me.
    Polk Lsi9
    N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
    NAD 1020 completely refurbished
    Keces DA-131 mk.II
    Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
    Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited July 2013
    ipsullivan wrote: »
    Got the crossovers done today, thanks to westmassguy for the riser board components, worked great. Getting itchy to put them back together but would rather wait for the rings.

    Question: My driver and PR cones are pretty dusty, what is the best way to clean off the years of dust? Seems like the coating on them is a bit tacky.

    Pics of the XOs:
    9276784649_d756be0afc_k.jpg

    In the cabinet
    9276785827_bd69629f89_o.jpg
    Looking good!
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter