Dynamatted my drivers today, should I do the PRs too?

ipsullivan

I finally got around the Dynamatting the drivers on my RTA 11ts, turned out pretty good.

Should I do the passive radiators as well? I should have more than enough Dynamat left.

Also, I did not do the magnets. I read that some people suggest it, and others frown upon it. Any insight on why or why not?

Thanks,
Ian

F1nut

Yes, do the PR's. The magnets do not ring, so no need to do them.

teekay0007

ipsullivan wrote: »

Also, I did not do the magnets. I read that some people suggest it, and others frown upon it. Any insight on why or why not?

No need to Dynamat the magnets, as F1 said above. It is, however, a good idea to secure the magnets with some JB Weld, Loctite, or any other good ceramic/metal adhesive while you have the drivers out of the cabinets. This simple task should make the possibility of any of the magnets shifting - pretty much trashing* the driver - much less likely. There are several threads on this, with pics, available.

* - the driver can often be repaired after a magnet shift, but the process of doing so is, IMO, a delicate, tedious task that's not worth the time/effort required.

PolkieMan

We had this stuff at work called Plastic Dip and we would coat the handles of our tools with it.
What you are trying to accomplish here is to remove any ringing or reflection from the metal components in the speaker.
Has anyone tried another method? Polk had a cheap attempt to cut down on the ringing of the PR it was a thin cardboard ring
glued on the back, I only found this on my 2.3tls not my 1c and one of them had fallen off or was not put on properly to begin with.

ZLTFUL

PolkieMan wrote: »

We had this stuff at work called Plastic Dip and we would coat the handles of our tools with it.
What you are trying to accomplish here is to remove any ringing or reflection from the metal components in the speaker.
Has anyone tried another method? Polk had a cheap attempt to cut down on the ringing of the PR it was a thin cardboard ring
glued on the back, I only found this on my 2.3tls not my 1c and one of them had fallen off or was not put on properly to begin with.

I had the same thing on the back of one of my 15TL's PRs.

Plasti-Dip in a heavy enough coat could probably have the same effect but you would have to avoid overspray onto the cones or spider.
Of course, you could probably brush on the non aerosol version...

PolkieMan

Interesting. I know Dyna-mat is kinda of a tar based product and you would have a tough time cutting little pieces to get perfect coverage.

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

ZLTFUL wrote: »

I had the same thing on the back of one of my 15TL's PRs.

Plasti-Dip in a heavy enough coat could probably have the same effect but you would have to avoid overspray onto the cones or spider.
Of course, you could probably brush on the non aerosol version...

Toolfan66

With the passives having more open metal, I would think they would be more important to do then the drivers..


Plasti-dip has nothing on Dynamat, and I would never suggest using it on this application.. The time it would take to mask everything off is a deal breaker in its self, let alone you would never get the same thickness as Dynamat, nor the same quality..

I say bury that idea 6 feet under..

ipsullivan

Toolfan66 wrote: »

With the passives having more open metal, I would think they would be more important to do then the drivers..


Plasti-dip has nothing on Dynamat, and I would never suggest using it on this application.. The time it would take to mask everything off is a deal breaker in its self, let alone you would never get the same thickness as Dynamat, nor the same quality..

I say bury that idea 6 feet under..

Looks like I will be doing the PRs tomorrow.

Also, one of the gaskets on one of the mids was a little bent and peeling a bit. Is there somewhere that I can get replacements for all the gaskets?

I agree, I have used Plasti-dip before(not for speakers) and it definitely does not come anywhere close to what Dynamat can do.

ZLTFUL

Most of the time, plasti-dip is only put on in one or two coats...and I agree, that won't come anywhere near to Dynamat.
But I am talking putting on enough coats to put it at or above the thickness of Dynamat.
Go to your toolbox and grab a pair of quality side cutters or linesman's pliers and look at the insulation on the handles. That's the thickness I am referring to. Plasti-dip builds up thickness rapidly with 5+ coats. I have experimented with coats up to 1/4 inch for other things.

But I digress as the time/materials would easily surpass the ease of Dynmat that can be had for about $25 for enough to do a pair of RTA-15TLs.
Just a thought for an alternative. I can send anyone who is interested a sample of some of the thicker applications for comparison if so interested.

teekay0007

ipsullivan wrote: »

Looks like I will be doing the PRs tomorrow.

Also, one of the gaskets on one of the mids was a little bent and peeling a bit. Is there somewhere that I can get replacements for all the gaskets?

You can re-do all of your gaskets (MWs, PRs, tweeters and binding post cups) and have a ton left over with one roll of Armacell insulation tape. You can get a 30' x 2" roll from Home Depot for about $8. Just cut the tape into 1/2"-wide strips and stick them to the metal of the drivers, etc. Works like a charm, is cheap and easy to do. Just make sure you remove the old gaskets prior to sticking the new ones on.

PolkieMan

Yea it was just a thought and I was thinking about doing the PR since there is less chance of **** them up and they would probably need it the most.

ZLTFUL wrote: »

Most of the time, plasti-dip is only put on in one or two coats...and I agree, that won't come anywhere near to Dynamat.
But I am talking putting on enough coats to put it at or above the thickness of Dynamat.
Go to your toolbox and grab a pair of quality side cutters or linesman's pliers and look at the insulation on the handles. That's the thickness I am referring to. Plasti-dip builds up thickness rapidly with 5+ coats. I have experimented with coats up to 1/4 inch for other things.

But I digress as the time/materials would easily surpass the ease of Dynmat that can be had for about $25 for enough to do a pair of RTA-15TLs.
Just a thought for an alternative. I can send anyone who is interested a sample of some of the thicker applications for comparison if so interested.

F1nut

Dynamat Extreme was designed as a dampening material. Plasti-dip was designed to coat things such as tool handles. Two very different products with two very different specific purposes.

you would have a tough time cutting little pieces to get perfect coverage.

Dynamat Extreme cuts easily with scissors or a razor knife and perfect coverage is not needed for it to be 100% effective. All that is needed are strips on the spokes and in the case of a PR, apply some to the round end bell, that's it.

westmassguy

I'm a little more anal retentive than that. I always do full coverage on the PRs and Drivers.

Drenis

This is how you dynamat PR's:




Once you do that and tap the basket, you become a believer in this mod. It applies across the board with the MW's as well.

F1nut

Complete overkill.

Systems

You remind me of me Andre, "Everything matters"!

Outstanding work/attention to detail!:cheesygrin:

ipsullivan

Is Armacell relatively flexible once it is in a 1/2" strip? Will I be able to do each driver/PR with one strip?

zane77

Very easy to work with, compresses very easily. Before you cut one full length strip, save enough full width strips to do the tweeters also.

deronb1

F1nut wrote: »

Complete overkill.

I agree. As nice of a job as that job is, one does not need that much to prevent ringing. Think about putting your finger on a ringing bell. Doesnt take much to silence it.

Toolfan66

F1nut wrote: »

Complete overkill.

Yep!!

Drenis

F1nut wrote: »

Complete overkill.

deronb1 wrote: »

I agree. As nice of a job as that job is, one does not need that much to prevent ringing. Think about putting your finger on a ringing bell. Doesnt take much to silence it.

Toolfan66 wrote: »

Yep!!

Gee thanks guys. Regardless, it really helped the ringing which I was satisfied with.

zingo

F1nut wrote: »

Yes, do the PR's.

Agreed. I found the PRs ring more because they don't have any deadening and mass provided by the magnet structure.

xsmi

Will Armacell work in this application?

F1nut

xsmi wrote: »

Will Armacell work in this application?

In place of Dynamat Extreme? Not even close.

xsmi

F1nut wrote: »

In place of Dynamat Extreme? Not even close.

What I figured.

pietsch288

Just when I thought I was "done" messing with my theater, I come across this crap ...... Looks like its time to buy some Dynamat.

Do I really have to put it on the tweeter?? I have rt3000p's. rich
lol

F1nut

pietsch288 wrote: »

Do I really have to put it on the tweeter??

There's no need to put it on any tweeter.

pietsch288

I assume I should "mat" the 6"ers in the satalite speakers as well as the 8"ers in the sub? rich

westmassguy

pietsch288 wrote: »

I assume I should "mat" the 6"ers in the satalite speakers as well as the 8"ers in the sub? rich

Any woofer or passive radiator with a light weight, stamped steel basket frame will theoretically benefit from the Dynamat

pietsch288

As long as I have the speakers out anyway......is there any other speaker or box mod must do's??

F1nut

Upgrading the components on your crossovers are a must do.